tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post4444803712737925680..comments2024-03-26T23:49:45.255-07:00Comments on COME SEW LUTTERLOH WITH ME: sleeves the lutterloh wayFonnell/Grammie/momhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-43501221587192208092022-08-24T11:39:47.673-07:002022-08-24T11:39:47.673-07:00Yes however an arm hole is longer/lower to allow s...Yes however an arm hole is longer/lower to allow sleeve movement. To make it sleeveless move the armhole tighter to your underarm and side of your body <br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-82022773459020019722022-08-24T11:25:59.869-07:002022-08-24T11:25:59.869-07:00Can the patterns with sleeves be made sleeveless b...Can the patterns with sleeves be made sleeveless by not cutting the sleeves or does the armhole need to be adjusted to make the pattern sleeveless?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-85004778878179168472021-07-20T09:13:51.309-07:002021-07-20T09:13:51.309-07:00The dress turned out just lovely! I see the patte...The dress turned out just lovely! I see the pattern does have puffy sleeves. That sleeve pattern is classic Puff. However it's a cute dress and a lot of fabric and work so enjoy wearing it!<br />Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-2542370186198231522021-07-19T08:25:54.820-07:002021-07-19T08:25:54.820-07:00So puffy sleeve....hum I'll look up the patter...So puffy sleeve....hum I'll look up the pattern if I can. however puffy just means there is too much length in the sleave line, Lowering the top between the arrows can remove some of this, however it will change some other needed fit areas so try just a little. remove the sleeve shorten the height a bit between the top arrows. really I see that in sewing the fitting vest you get nothing on sleeve just armhole and people then to think a vest armhole should be low when really this is a test for the clothes we make we should make the vest armhole higher. How about I do an updated sleeve posting. Watch for it.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-2864716595113479282021-07-18T17:37:26.238-07:002021-07-18T17:37:26.238-07:00Hi folks. Once again I'm reviving an old post...Hi folks. Once again I'm reviving an old post lol. I just finished making Sup 321 #108. I'm pretty sure this is the first sleeve I've made from a Lutterloh pattern; most of what I've made has been pants or sleeveless tops. I made a muslin of the bodice and found the sleeve "off". When I looked at it closer I found the side seams didn't match up without a bit of a twist. I extended one side up a quarter inch at an angle to straighten that out. Then I realized that the front seemed bigger than the back. Well that didn't make sense to me, thinking that you would need more fabric in the back as you reach forward so I installed the sleeves in the wrong arms - front is back and back is front - because that's what made sense to me. Well needless to say they are still not right. If I would have read this post first I would have realized that it wasn't more fabric in the front but that the front drops down more quickly. I have already serged over the seams so I think I will have to try and live with it. It is quite a puffy sleeve and with the seam allowances serged off I will have a hard time gathering them again. I love Fonnell's comment about pinning at the underarm seam and then fitting it around from there. I will try and remember this with my next Lutterloh outfit with sleeves.<br /><br />Thanks again for all your guidance!Jacquihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12713947448750349060noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-78609967542403527132013-09-25T06:34:35.562-07:002013-09-25T06:34:35.562-07:00I think it does. I'm finding very quickly that...I think it does. I'm finding very quickly that I'm going to need to keep the kind of notes that I do in fiber dyeing for this program. Write down everything I do, so that I can repeat it later. I have several sewing books, but after being trained by a midwestern dress maker, I find the language in them a bit tedious. lol<br />I remember the center mark being about 1/2" forward of center, so I will start there. I am very petite (I always go down at least one size from actual measurements on bought patterns because the amount of ease they include looks baggy on me), so it probably matters very little as far as the armscye is concerned.<br />Thank youAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17123964533987584100noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-4758356904155722752013-09-23T10:16:32.982-07:002013-09-23T10:16:32.982-07:00I'm guessing you mean the sleeve pattern cente...I'm guessing you mean the sleeve pattern center. You are correct we do not put a sleeve on at it's center.<br /><br /> I actually don't trust the paper pattern. I hang my finished sleeve on my arm scye at the underarm and test that I have enough ease in the back and then pin down what will be the top of the shoulder. <br /><br />The most important issue with a sleeve is that it fits you! You can adjust the arm scye to any changes you make in your sleeve. <br /><br />I sew from the vintage patterns a lot and the arm scyes are very fitted. If you make them larger that sleeve has to grow also. <br /><br />Hope that answers your question. dots on papers aren't as important as sleeves that match your armsyce. <br />Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-46683213539625622912013-09-23T09:30:25.070-07:002013-09-23T09:30:25.070-07:00So how do you find the center on the vintage patte...So how do you find the center on the vintage patterns? I used to make jackets for a clothing designer, and the center point was always slightly forward of actual center to add ease to the shoulder blade area. Do I just go with the dot closest to this position?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17123964533987584100noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-33493328756453893172013-02-18T23:31:45.213-08:002013-02-18T23:31:45.213-08:00Ann isn't the classic book for larger figures?...Ann isn't the classic book for larger figures? maybe that is the magic issue. The classic patterns seem fuller. I should go dig mine out. Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-34258905410857134262013-02-18T23:29:27.224-08:002013-02-18T23:29:27.224-08:00Wendy,
if this happens to you each pattern I'm...Wendy,<br />if this happens to you each pattern I'm wondering if you are making your patterns for a large bust. Are your shoulders in the patterns loose also and from your neck to your chest is that loose a bit? You may just need to make your sleeve and top part of your patterns a smaller size. We can explore this until you figure it out and then do this fix on all patterns. Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-90371656961984461322013-02-18T22:26:27.056-08:002013-02-18T22:26:27.056-08:00One more tip Wendy,
Since the sleeve piece is long...One more tip Wendy,<br />Since the sleeve piece is longer than the armsceye you should sew them together with the sleeve against the bed of the machine. The feed dogs should help in easing in the small amount of extra fabric. Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-75049511105759904892013-02-18T21:59:38.686-08:002013-02-18T21:59:38.686-08:00Hi Wendy,
The center line on the sleeve should ali...Hi Wendy,<br />The center line on the sleeve should align with the shoulder seam and the under arm seam should match the under arm seam of the bodice. Be sure you are stitching a basting stitch on the sleeve cap to help with easing the curve of the sleeve into the curve of the armsceye. If the sleeve will not fit with any amount of manipulating and steaming, as Fonnell mentioned, you may need to remove a small amount from the curviest portion of the top of the sleeve pattern. Start with very small adjustments until you can get the sleeve to fit the armsceye and be sure to pin the sleeve into the armsceye before removing more. Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-32670641717386387162013-02-18T21:04:53.098-08:002013-02-18T21:04:53.098-08:00Not vintage, it's from the "Classic"...Not vintage, it's from the "Classic" #3 FF. I have a fitting dummy, but it has no upper arms, just stops at the armpit/shoulder. I'm not sure if that will be enough to fit the sleeve. <br /><br />If there's no matching of the dots, can you please explain further the purpose of marking a center line as stated above? What is it supposed to line up with?Wendyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06701752842480669362noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-72145149404701320532013-02-18T18:31:08.665-08:002013-02-18T18:31:08.665-08:00Wendy,
Are you working from a vintage pattern?
I ...Wendy,<br />Are you working from a vintage pattern? <br />I always pin my sleeve in on my dress form and then keep moving it until I have the fit how I like. The back sleeve is best being longer, the front drops close to the body and then curves slightly. If your sleeve has too much puff, removing a little bit from only the top will help. This is a science getting sleeves to fit. In European sewing you don't get the fitting marks as it really doesn't match how a sleeve should fit you. They like good fit and we should all adjust how we make our clothing because we would get better fit. Be sure and ask more questions if this isn't enough help.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-16824711833617378822013-02-18T18:15:34.268-08:002013-02-18T18:15:34.268-08:00I'm having trouble making my sleeves fit my bo...I'm having trouble making my sleeves fit my bodices. In every garment I've done, I end up with a poofy spot on the sleeve right behind the shoulder seam. It occurred to me tonight that maybe the dots used for drafting might also be used as notches for matching? I compared my pattern pieces, but the dots on the underarm area don't match evenly; there would have to be gathers in the underarm if I matched all the dots. My experience with other patterns is that the underarm is always smooth, not gathered or eased. If the underarm is smooth, is there a particular dot that would be the beginning/ending point for the gathers? Is the "center" dot always the 5th from both ends, and does it match to the shoulder seam on the bodice?Wendyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06701752842480669362noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-27676353602496882692012-08-02T08:36:48.240-07:002012-08-02T08:36:48.240-07:00If you look at the symbols page included with ever...If you look at the symbols page included with every Lutterloh book and supplement you'll see that it is clearly stated that a "V" on a sleeve represents the front. If you don't have a symbols page to refer to you can see one here:<br />http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/01/lutterloh-system-symbols-page-evolution.htmlAnn in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-46795416873842860642012-08-02T06:09:01.392-07:002012-08-02T06:09:01.392-07:00The V in the sleeve stands for back so why do you ...The V in the sleeve stands for back so why do you say front?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-61228259477286811322010-11-16T20:35:51.350-08:002010-11-16T20:35:51.350-08:00Ann is correct in directing you to our past postin...Ann is correct in directing you to our past postings. No matter what you should "walk" the sleeve around the arm scye (the arm hole of the bodice) and if the sleeve has much too much fabric that would gather you would want to consider making a two piece sleeve. Ask if you need more info. to Walk a sleeve take the sleeve start at the arm hole and when you need to hold it still with your pointer finger and pivot the sleeve to go around the arm hole repeating as needed to make your way around the arm hole.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-35586814878020714772010-11-16T09:13:15.381-08:002010-11-16T09:13:15.381-08:00Hi Lisa,
If you read the post on Common Marking Mi...Hi Lisa,<br />If you read the post on Common Marking Mistakes, here: http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/07/common-marking-mistakes-and-how-i-fix.html<br /><br />and the post on Adjusting Patterns for Knits here: <br />http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/01/red-group-using-knits-on-lutterloh.html<br /><br />you'll see how I mark the sleeve dots to adjust for your two different high and full bust measurements. The posting on knits will explain how to measure the difference between sleeve and armseye to be sure your changes will still result in a sleeve that fits the armseye. I hope that clarifies the markings a little better.<br /><br />Ann in Calif.Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-68951142147244863862010-11-15T11:58:50.652-08:002010-11-15T11:58:50.652-08:00question about sleeves...
Since I have a large bus...question about sleeves...<br />Since I have a large bust (d cup) if I use my chest measurements for neck line and shoulders and my bust measurements for the rest of the bodice..what size sleeve should I choose or does it matter?Lisahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08975585440369841858noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-90209452405071359762010-01-22T10:05:22.126-08:002010-01-22T10:05:22.126-08:00Wow - you ladies provide great info on Lutterloh p...Wow - you ladies provide great info on Lutterloh patterns. Many years ago I bought the kit after attending a presentation. However I never used it but recently saw an ad for them and looked for my kit, but couldn't find mine. I did find my curve tools but not the tape and pattern book I initially bought. (But I'm still looking!) Does anyone know where I can find a slightly used (but not old) kit? I was thinking about trying it now but didn't think I wanted to buy the whole thing new again. Any help you can provide is appreciated.<br /><br />Sallye<br />sdromagna@yahoo.comAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-56081161403646657262009-12-29T01:38:13.954-08:002009-12-29T01:38:13.954-08:00Hi Betty,
I have a pant pattern making business a...Hi Betty,<br /><br />I have a pant pattern making business and connected sides is the last thing I need for fittings. With that said it is a pant option and great for sewing for kids. Just remove seam allowance on the sides and connect the pattern. You will have to figure out the yardage as it takes an opened out width in most cases to put down a connected pattern. Don't forget to flip the pattern when you place it on for the 2nd cutting. Does that make sense? These were very popular during the 1980's. You can certainly do this with a straight legged Lutterloh pattern.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-19746041535702064032009-12-28T21:15:18.690-08:002009-12-28T21:15:18.690-08:00I have a pants pattern where the front and back ar...I have a pants pattern where the front and back are connected at the side. Which means there are no side seams. <br /><br />Does Lutterloh have this pattern? If they did adjustments could be so much easier.<br /><br />Betty CBJhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16271918787329530798noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-83475508170006309992009-12-27T05:06:52.070-08:002009-12-27T05:06:52.070-08:00Thank you for your post! I'm so happy to hav...Thank you for your post! I'm so happy to have found your blog!Tonihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07251147737253912516noreply@blogger.com