tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post777143101782538835..comments2024-03-26T23:49:45.255-07:00Comments on COME SEW LUTTERLOH WITH ME: The difference between Ease and fullness and how to add them to a patternFonnell/Grammie/momhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-9634825897151545812017-09-16T22:22:17.465-07:002017-09-16T22:22:17.465-07:00Thanks for sharing your list of books. I will look...Thanks for sharing your list of books. I will look them up.Toluhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16129406596871834030noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-55028864417167050912014-06-03T18:41:18.125-07:002014-06-03T18:41:18.125-07:00If a lutterloh pattern has the symbol for knits it...If a lutterloh pattern has the symbol for knits it means the pattern already has that ease figured out in it. That being said every knit fabric is different in it's stretch, so no matter you must test your knit fabric to see it's stretching pull and then paper fit the pattern to you. If your knit has tons of stretch and the pattern is loose a bit you might want to take a little out of the pattern via the seam allowance. If the knit fabric has very little stretch and your paper pattern fits very smoothly against your body you should add some via the seam allowance. This is just the beginning to understanding sewing with knits really.<br />Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-26847307985482458662014-06-03T17:46:36.460-07:002014-06-03T17:46:36.460-07:00I know my correct size. I was talking about when ...I know my correct size. I was talking about when you use a stretch material for a woven pattern one site recommends going down a dot or two depending on the amount of stretch and others say to keep your correct measurements and remove the ease from the side seams etc.sommerdreamshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09085846056743916056noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-57214105183839929332013-12-26T21:53:54.266-08:002013-12-26T21:53:54.266-08:00Have you tried either of these methods yet to comp...Have you tried either of these methods yet to compare?<br />There are a couple videos produced by the Lutterloh company that you can view here:<br />http://www.lutterloh-system.com/<br /><br />These videos demonstrate the proper way to measure for and draw out your pattern. <br />That being said, the best way for each person to accomplish this is to try it for yourself with the fitting vest pattern. Because it's difficult sometimes to see if you're measuring correctly you may need to make another draft with slightly different measurements to be sure you are getting the best fit. The important thing here is to make this system work for YOU. Everyone will need to make adjustments for figure differences such as sloping shoulders, thick waist or rounding back etc. but once you get the size to start with right these tweaks to the patterns should be minimal. If you've tried making the fitting vest and are having trouble perhaps you could elaborate on what's not working for you.Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-31983590854987835292013-12-26T16:04:11.906-08:002013-12-26T16:04:11.906-08:00I get confused. Some people tell you to redraft u...I get confused. Some people tell you to redraft up or down a dot or two while others recommend drafting to correct size and then removing ease at side seams. Which is the right way?sommerdreamsnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-26981829661118219002012-12-01T21:40:04.910-08:002012-12-01T21:40:04.910-08:00most ease is added on the sides, you don't wan...most ease is added on the sides, you don't want anything added where it will put things off balance. The darts don't really count where ease is concerned. you use the dart to control the ease or to add design lines. They can be considered after things fit. Do you need to do a large bust adjustment? This can look like a need for ease and it is but only in the bust area.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-3448228796356192382012-12-01T21:29:49.189-08:002012-12-01T21:29:49.189-08:00Thanks for your tutorial. How do you add ease to ...Thanks for your tutorial. How do you add ease to a dartless sloper?Sewing Newbienoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-26486827273443103462010-10-04T00:31:33.759-07:002010-10-04T00:31:33.759-07:00http://www.ca.uky.edu/HES/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-165....http://www.ca.uky.edu/HES/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-165.pdf<br /><br /><br />Here you go a nice article on knits and how to plan for them.. Hope it helps.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-30800449184472784502010-10-04T00:23:16.601-07:002010-10-04T00:23:16.601-07:00yes use your standard size and draft the pattern. ...yes use your standard size and draft the pattern. Take the stretch on your knit and adjust the pattern for that stretch. Ann put a link to a great article on knits in the material for the sewcial we last did. I'll find it and try to post it for you here.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-67873923822298347052010-10-03T19:57:25.069-07:002010-10-03T19:57:25.069-07:00Hi Fonnell and Ann,
I hope your summer went well!...Hi Fonnell and Ann,<br /><br />I hope your summer went well! I have a few questions and I'm hoping you can answer them when you have a chance.<br /><br />I drafted t-shirt pattern #105 (MMV) and noticed there is a lot of ease in the pattern although the picture shows it is a well-fitted t-shirt.<br /><br />I do understand knit fabrics vary. Do you suggest I cut the pattern as is and fit as I sew it? Or do you suggest I redraft it in smaller measurements?<br /><br />Do you always use your standard bust and hip measurements when you draft your patterns? Or do you sometimes go up or down from your standard measurements depending upon the style of the pattern?<br /><br />Thank you in advance.Ursula from TXnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-48164846695356335392010-01-22T11:55:52.454-08:002010-01-22T11:55:52.454-08:00finished a dress and now making a sheer top to go ...finished a dress and now making a sheer top to go over top(im working on the paper pattern right now)...im sooo excited! Everyone likes it! I will send picture when its done. Thanks again and i look forward to more tips and tricks from you all!tlopezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11019083864300311995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-74764142946787364542010-01-20T09:11:00.986-08:002010-01-20T09:11:00.986-08:00Yipeeeeeee! I finished my first pattern with this ...Yipeeeeeee! I finished my first pattern with this system and it actually fits!!!(skirt) Thanks soooo much for the little tips/how tos! If I hadnt found this site I think I would have given up on lutterloh. You guys are awesome!tlopezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11019083864300311995noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-57906425302054897182010-01-17T13:52:58.643-08:002010-01-17T13:52:58.643-08:00Thanks! NO... only kinda did the paper fitting......Thanks! NO... only kinda did the paper fitting... I just never thought that it would be skin tight!!!!!<br /><br />It just caught me by surprise!<br /><br />http://sewingtoni.blogspot.com/2010/01/shirt-sew-thon-continues-lutterloh-156.htmlTonihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07251147737253912516noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-56108244796494317352010-01-16T10:42:32.592-08:002010-01-16T10:42:32.592-08:00oh yes the knit patterns have given us all grief. ...oh yes the knit patterns have given us all grief. I suggest you paper fit them, hopefully that is the stage you are at. Remember ease is a personal thing. I wouldn't make a larger pattern I would add ease to the one you have. Start by adding it on the sides only and see if that is enough. Ann and I both have run from way too small or way too big on the knit patterns. Also the knit fabric you use will make a big difference in how snug you make the pattern. Guess it's time for a posting on knits! I'm looking for your pattern so I can give you some more hints.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-8063887674102977832010-01-16T09:21:41.885-08:002010-01-16T09:21:41.885-08:00Hi! I'm working on my first knit Lutterloh sh...Hi! I'm working on my first knit Lutterloh shirt pattern. There is like NO EASE built into it! Oh my gosh! I working with pattern # 156 in supplement #274.<br /><br />Have you found that there's NO EASE or very little ease built into the knit patterns?<br /><br />I made it one size larger... still too tight!Tonihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07251147737253912516noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-66293928103670204562009-10-25T23:41:27.465-07:002009-10-25T23:41:27.465-07:00Fonnell,
I drafted a Lutterloh t-shirt last month...Fonnell,<br /><br />I drafted a Lutterloh t-shirt last month and compared its sleeve with a commercial t-shirt sleeve pattern (that fits me well) and the Lutterloh slv pattern was over an inch larger in the bicep area. And the picture of the Lutterloh pattern is a tight fitting knit t-shirt.<br /><br />Thanks for your post.Ursula from TXnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-57499886380140783352009-10-22T12:27:24.020-07:002009-10-22T12:27:24.020-07:00Ursula,
Removing general ease:
Remove ease at the ...Ursula,<br />Removing general ease:<br />Remove ease at the side of a bodice, on the side seams, also on skirts and pants on the side seam. <br /><br />If you remove sleeve ease it is a bit different. You remove it from the side seams but need to walk the sleeve in the armscye and see if the sleeve still fits. Also if a sleeve is too big it can be the cap is too low or too high so there are multi-issues in a sleeve.<br /><br />If a sleeve is too small you may not be adding ease at the sides it may need to be in the middle. <br /><br />You didn't say what your problem was? <br /><br />F.Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-52672480061371007162009-10-22T12:19:34.767-07:002009-10-22T12:19:34.767-07:00Thanks Ann and Fonnell for the post. I do have a ...Thanks Ann and Fonnell for the post. I do have a question regarding ease. If we wish to remove some ease from a pattern... where do we remove it from? The center of a sleeve, at a fold, and center and/or back seam if there is one?<br /><br />Thank you both in advance.Ursula from TXnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-39386911073795474782009-10-03T23:20:50.759-07:002009-10-03T23:20:50.759-07:00I'm glad to hear you're finding the postin...I'm glad to hear you're finding the postings on the blog helpful Ursula. It was actually Fonnell who wrote this particular tutorial and I'm sure she's pleased too. I have been working on a few knit patterns myself lately and have concluded that the "fit" of a knit is really a subjective matter. Working out a "master pattern" to determine basic wearing ease is certainly the first step. I have found that I like very little to even a little negative ease in my knits to create a close fitting garment. If you'll be working on your knit patterns along with your apron pattern feel free to email me or Fonnell if you need help.Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-77557523220798884962009-10-03T21:28:32.888-07:002009-10-03T21:28:32.888-07:00Thank you Ann. I'm looking forward to your po...Thank you Ann. I'm looking forward to your posting regarding knits and Lutterloh. I'm always drawn to knit patterns and fabric. I wish to sew 245 and 246 someday soon and this posting has really helped me understand how many seams there actually are!Ursula from Texasnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-72578552288305474112009-10-02T22:13:21.424-07:002009-10-02T22:13:21.424-07:00That's really good to hear. Thanks for you no...That's really good to hear. Thanks for you note? It's what keeps us going.<br /><br />smilesFonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-82572487623580450712009-10-02T22:07:38.042-07:002009-10-02T22:07:38.042-07:00I would just like to say that I really appreciate ...I would just like to say that I really appreciate these tutorials. I am new to Lutterloh, and am delighted to see how versatile these patterns are.<br /><br />Cheryl in San DiegoAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-46746307701437869382009-10-01T09:55:21.594-07:002009-10-01T09:55:21.594-07:00You can also check our links on the side for vinta...You can also check our links on the side for vintage sewing books that will show how to put fullness into your basic pattern pieces. It's worth a look see!Fonnell/Grammie/momhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14428737043026677865noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9204432097294908162.post-19670760433329195502009-09-30T21:41:05.270-07:002009-09-30T21:41:05.270-07:00I have a couple of favorite books that demonstrate...I have a couple of favorite books that demonstrate your examples of wearing ease and design ease Fonnell. There's: Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern and finally my favorite Practical Dress Design. The last was originally published in 1933 but I have the last revised edition from 1954. It's full of lovely drawings of different ways to add design ease into darts, yokes and any seam you can imagine. The vintage Lutterloh patterns used to include these kinds of details too but fashion in general seems to have moved away from these treatments. These little changes to a basic pattern can stretch your current pattern collection to such great lengths that you really can get by with just a basic set. It's certainly worth a little research if one has the time.Ann in Calif.https://www.blogger.com/profile/14420832663617562254noreply@blogger.com