COME SEW LUTTERLOH WITH ME

How the Lutterloh system works and a new fitting book that's wonderful!

2012-02-11T20:57:00.000-08:00

Most of you reading this blog are
deciding if Lutterloh is all it promises

You just bought the Lutterloh system
and have no idea what to do first...

I didn't buy my first Lutterloh book at a sewing store class, or

see a demo at the big sewing expo.

No, I saw something on e-bay that was old and beautiful and interesting.

I bid on it and won a book with several stacks of cards from 1940.

My knowledge of Lutterloh patterns has all been trial and error.

This learning is what I pass along to you... a journey I have taken
and added Ann, a fellow Lutterloh sewer, in.
A pattern making, sewing journey.

Lutterloh patterns started in West Germany in 1935.

Maria Aloisa Lutterloh started the business and
collected her fashions

from several European fashion houses.

The patterns were designed using the popular math formula

'The Golden ratio'

The idea of the body's shape being in balance
is a true principle

of mathematical balance.

Leonardo Di Vince used the Golden ratio
so do I when designing weaving patterns.

How does it work?

A pattern is made using an apportioning scale

H=full length of body

1/2 H=upper part of body

1/4 H=length of leg from ankle to knee

from chin to navel

1/6 H=length of foot

1/8 H=length of head crown to chin bottom

1/10 H=face height and hand length

1/12=width of face

This is just a small sample of an apportioning scale

When you make a Lutterloh pattern

with your tape and pin stuck in the hole

for the size of your bust
and then your hip you are using the system as a

Graded system
meaning the pattern is enlarged in set amounts from
one size pattern to the next.

The US pattern companies use this system.

They make a base pattern
(much smaller than I am)
and grade it (make it larger in set portions)
until it is my size....

I had four daughter (yes one son) to sew for
and we needed different size patterns for each.

I could buy a pattern for each girl

or I could do my own pattern grading, which I did!

You get to go crazy grading or spend too much money buying patterns

(now there are multi-sizes in an envelope)

That still doesn't always work

for the last wedding we made bride maids dresses

and these are how many multi-size patterns it took to get

all the girls a correct size!
So often you must cross the lines for larger hips
or smaller bust and suddenly
it's not a multi-size pattern.

If only I'd had a Lutterloh pattern book back then!

Here are pj tops for a daughter and
her two children.

All made in just an hour from ONE Lutterloh pattern

The Clear Truth of the Matter

If I buy a pattern or draft my own pattern
or make a much faster Lutterloh pattern

I get the same results.

YES!

Each system doesn't fit my body right off.

They never have whether I was skinny or round as I am now.

The people I sew for have the same issue.

You can assume most everyone doesn't fit every pattern right off.
I'm thinking the muumuu fit everyone right off

With that in mind I offer the idea that
some skill in fitting will make the difference.

You just need to figure out your own shape and how it differs from
the patterns you like.....

then learn to adjust for those few issues.

The biggest problem I see when people try to fit
patterns on themselves is they do too much.

Fitting is most successful when

you make small changes and only do one change at a time.

Most people do too much.

Here is a new book just out that will be your
best chance of seeing what is happening

in your pattern fitting and solving it.

The complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

by Sarah Veblen
http://www.sarahveblen.com

I've taken several classes from Sarah and was so happy to see this wonderful book

She can really get you to fit your clothing in a class
but now a way for everyone to learn from a master!

This is all done with color photos and step by step instructions.

If you just get a tripod or a step ladder and put your camera on it

take a photo while fitting and compare it to the book

you will see what needs to be done.

Fix it and take another photo to see if you created another issue

Sarah covers everything!

How to see the problem

How to correct the problem

How to change your paper pattern to reflect the correction.
How to use HBL, my favorite Horizontal Balance line
What order to fit in for the most success

She councils you on how much fitting is too much! That's good to hear

She uses real women with shapes we can relate to in her photos.

Nothing is missing from this fitting book! READ it from cover to cover

then know you will only need a couple of the corrections in the future.

Once you see what your fitting problems are

life will get so much easier.

make those same changes on each pattern

This is why Lutterloh asks you to sew a vest first
it lets you see what changes you need for each pattern

It is best to learn from a simple test pattern.

1. Make a paper pattern

2. Do a paper fitting

See what might be a problem

3. If you can correct it (as in a shoulder slant) do it in the paper pattern

4. Make a trial garment from scrap fabric or muslin

5. Take a photo of you in the test garment

Now use the "Perfect fitting"book
Use the photos to match issue you see in your test garment.

Lastly sew with that fashion fabric and enjoy your new outfit.

Do you have to do this each time?

yes and no

You can adjust the paper pattern each time right at the start

You can trust the master pattern to help you fit all the others.

However if I'm making a jacket with a fitted sleeve, or pants

Or a style that looks different than I usually wear I would want

to make a mock up and see if the style is good and if the fit needs

some adjustment.

Tradtional system and X- XX large system which tape for which system

2012-01-15T10:19:00.000-08:00

This is our most often asked question in one form or another.

Let me help everyone understand so when you purchase Lutterloh
you will get the correct tools for making all your families clothes.

1. The traditional system has a tape with a white or cream plastic end.

This can be different depending upon the generation the tape comes from

They all work just fine however check our links on how to place

your mark with the different generation tapes.

The traditional system pattern books have a mix of patterns,

something for everyone in the family.
There will be a few knit patterns, and a few patterns for larger women.

Each has a symbol to show you what the
pattern was designed for.

Check our link for the symbols chart.
#3 on the side bar.
Also see "The Lutterloh System Symbols page-An evolution"

2. Supplements. We love the supplements! From all ages.

I have some from the 50's and 60's that take my breath away.

They are still being made and you can purchase them on the web sites

on our side bar, depending on which country you are in.
Your pattern books contain supplements.
Check our side bar for an article on this.

There is an older supplement for mature women that
uses the traditional Measuring tape.
These styles are timeless.

I just checked one of the Lutterloh web sites and there is a new
Fuller Figure supplement and the classic suppliments are nice
on most everyone also.

If you are sewing for larger folks
This supplement and the traditional system is for you!

The X large XX large tape is the blue on the left

3. The X-large XX large system. It comes with a tape that is blue.
It does not work on the traditional system

You must use this tape with the x-xx-large system.

We find that most all women can use the traditional system by choosing styles

that look nice on larger bodies.

The X-large XX Large system has

very large clothing and would only be needed if you find you

are sewing for someone who won't fit anything from the supplements.

There you have it!
Every pattern system will require you to make adjustments for
your figure. You can read some of our postings to help you along.
If you work at making a good fitting vest it will help you know what must be
adjusted in all the Lutterloh patterns.

Time for my pattern fitting secrets

2011-05-19T10:38:00.000-07:00

I have picked up a handful

of fitting hints I should not keep secret!

Sewing should be FUN. That is why we buy and use Lutterloh.
Why not master some great ways to fit your patterns?

When you think about fitting a garment the first thing to consider is:
"what does everything hang off of?"

Starting at my head my next widest part is my shoulders.
All my dresses and tops hang off my shoulders so
why not get that part of the pattern correct every time with a this tool.

My handy tool is a tracing of my neck and shoulders.
I had my daughter trace me with a pencil.
It took a couple of tries with a three year old about.

This is the paper tracing. It was taped to the wall and needs some touch up

Let's start with getting the shoulder correct.

1) Collect a piece of paper wide enough and long enough to
capture a tracing of your shoulder and neck.

2) Make a straight line down the center of the paper. We just folded ours in half.

3) Tape the piece of paper on the wall at a level you
can stand at and easily be traced from
Stand so you are in the middle of the center line.
Your helpful friend can make sure you are in the center.

4) Have someone trace you by holding the pencil straight up. Start at the neck below your ears, trace all the way down your shoulder and slightly onto your arm.
Repeat for the other side.
Don't move one more step......

Have your helper put a nice big dot at your neck just as it turns
to your shoulder (where a neckless chain would rest)
and then at the peak of your shoulder.
To find that raise your arm and feel for the space where the shoulder bends.

5) Take down the paper and using a french curve tidy up and smooth out your shape. You can use a marker for this to make a nice dark outline. I put my
Shoulder shape on a piece of cardboard. It gets used over and over again.

Now each time you make a Lutterloh pattern you can lay it over your shoulder shape and see if it fits you properly. If it doesn't use the fix I show you in the photos below.

This will also help you see if the garment is much too wide
across the shoulder or too narrow.

This is the tidied up shoulder that I traced on cardboard.

I also added a red line to note the lowest I'd want a neck line to go.

Might as well check that while I do the shoulder check.

I'm going to use a commercial pattern so you can see it on the white cardboard background. My Lutterloh patterns are all made on White paper.
White on White in photos? I think not.

This is a princess line top I've made before.
We only need the part of the pattern that will hang off our shoulder.

Fold back any button bands, etc. We will lay the center line of the pattern on the center line of our shoulder drawing.

Now for the fun. Lay the pattern on the center line and
match the pattern to the shoulder.
I never put seam allowances on my Lutterloh patterns. I add them on the fabric.
This pattern however has 5/8 seam allowances so I have red penciled them so I can avoid using them. We want to do our measuring on the stitching line.
The pattern is also a multi-size pattern and I am using one of the smaller sizes, so you will see that extra paper.

Here's a nice close look, remember it's a multi-sized pattern so the
paper above the neck mark is the larger sizes not in use.
Hum looks like a lot of fabric I don't need.

I've laid two rulers down. One on the shoulder of the pattern, one on
my shoulder line. It was over 1 1/2 inches different.
That extra fabric becomes a bubble of fabric above my bust.
It makes my armscye too large also if this was a sleeveless top
I'd have a loose arm hole.

This can work both ways.
Your shoulder could be higher than your pattern allows
for and you may need to add fabric.

One important note: If I was going to put in a 1 1/2 inch shoulder pad then I should NOT make this change!
The shoulder pad will take that space.
Maybe I will put in a low shoulder pad
then make a small adjustment in the shoulder.

Ready to correct this problem?

1) establish two cutting lines
One line horizontal about 2 inches below the armscye.
I use my cutting boards lines to get a nice straight line.
Just mark it with a pen.

2) Make a 2nd pen line vertical from the shoulder
(about 2 inches or so from the armscye)
To the Horizontal line you just made

Note: Before I go any further, because I know this pattern
I have pinned out the extra width in the shoulder.
I will have to add a large bust change but that's another issue.
This pattern is much too far down my shoulder and would look
like a drop shoulder which it is not.
If your bodice hits your shoulder where you want it no change need be considered.

3) Here is the piece I marked in two directions and now cut free
from the bodice pattern.
It will help me correct that extra 1 1/2 inch shoulder problem.
It looks shocking to cut up a pattern but we will put it back together soon!

4) Slide your loose piece to the point that it hits your shoulder at it's armscye end.
Click on the photos to see this up close.
Remember I have a seam allowance in the way.
Be sure to match the sewing line to your shoulder with both pieces.

I now have one pattern piece up high and one down
where it should be on my shoulder.

(Because I still need to loose some of the width of this shoulder
I have overlapped the two pieces a little, You may not need this so
slide the lower piece right next to the higher piece butt them
together don't overlap them. When using a Lutterloh pattern I use a size that fits better than this commercial pattern does)

5) If this is was a larger amount to remove you would need some spare paper underneath to add to the missing spaces you encounter. Lay your ruler down on top of the shoulder line you see underneath the pattern.
Now draw a nice line across the two pieces.
It should connect the highest point with the lowest.

Here is the finished shoulder.
My top should hang on my shoulder perfectly now!

It's a much better start to have the pattern hanging off the shoulders
correctly before you do anything else.
If you removed/added some from the neck edge (I didn't) then remove/add
that amount from your collar. Don't remove it from the center back, remove
it from the shoulder line. Photo to follow.

Because this was a multi-sized pattern I just folded over the pattern pieces.
With your Lutterloh pattern just cut off the un-needed area.

DON'T FORGET TO REPEAT THIS ON THE BACK PIECE.
Small adjustments may be needed on the sleeve.

Walk it in the armscye and see if you need to adjust this.

I'll show sleeve adjustment in my next posting.

************************************************

Did that hint give you some ideas?

Well here are some more hints to help make every pattern fit you and your shape.

*******************************************

Let's do some FRENCH CURVE work.

Yes get that curve out and let's learn how to use it to get the fit we want.
By comparing some of our best fitting garments we can transfer
Our French curve shape to the Lutterloh patterns.

Look at all the places you use the French curve in pattern making.
Many of these locations can be checked in our favorite
clothes and used on our Lutterloh pattern.


Use the french curve to note your hip shape


Save your favorite hip shape from your pants or your skirt and use it over and over Check the curve in your crotch to improve fit. CAUTION: The area without red in the crotch should be mostly straight.

This is where the French curve shines.

Note your favorite necklines

Check your favorite sleeves

Check your Cap and curve

see why you never never like your garments sleeves by comparing the french curve lines with a favorite garment.

The French curves have numbers all the way around and down the French curve. These are the numbers we will want to note.
I am using my favorite curve in the photos below.

HIPS: repeat your hip shape by noting the numbers on the curve that fit your hip shape.

These are my favorite pants, most of my skirts are gathered
but you can get this shape from a skirt also.
I work from just below the waist band down to just past the widest part of my hip.
REMEMBER: place the French curve on the seam line not the cut edge.

As you can see in this photo my widest part of my hip is only 4 inches
down from my waist. It hasn't mattered if I was skinny or thick,
it's still just 4 inches.

I used the straight edge of the French curve to show you that you only need to measure the curve area, once your leg is straight it is not a french curve area.
If you need to see where the curve ends just lay a yard stick up the straight of your leg and note where it no longer touches the pant.
Measure from there to the waist.
Slide the French curve up and down until you find the perfect match to the shape.
******

1) Find an outfit that fits as you like, a skirt or pair of pants work.
Smooth it out on the table, wrong side out is sometimes a better
way to see what the shape of the skirt is.
Only measure along the stitching line.

2) A French curve will fit any curve but you must move it up and down until it perfectly fits the shape you want to take note of.

3) Write these important fitting numbers on a bright recipe card.
At the waist band bottom what number is on the french curve?
Write it as top #__.

With out moving the french curve note the place were your body
no longer curves but hangs straight.
That would be Bottom #___.

Now when you make a skirt or even a pair of pants you can take your french curve and check that the Lutterloh pattern fits your shape. Match the top number you wrote down to the pattern waist, and the bottom number to where the curve ends. Did your pattern match the French curve? If not trace around the French curve and use the new shape.
This is a quick easy change to make.

REMEMBER measure on the stitching line not the cutting line

********

This little trick works for your neck line also.

I don't like surprises when I make a neckline.
I don't like it to be too loose, or too low or not look perfect.

Take a couple of necklines you really like and using the french curve
do as you did for your hip.

1. Fold the top or dress in half so you only work with half the neck.

2. Move the french curve on the neck line until the shoulder seam
and the bottom of the neckline match the french curve.
You can see the direction I have placed the curve in the photo above.

REMEMBER: you measure the sewing line not any facings or neck finishes.

This is a V neck I really like, it isn't straight but curved a bit.
Because it is a V neck I did not fold the top as the V was clearly the center.
It is also a knit so I washed it first to make sure it wasn't stretched out from wearing it.

3. Note the number at the shoulder seam as Top #___

Note the bottom of the neck as Bottom #___

You can barely see the V in this busy top.
But the numbers are Top 12 2/8 Bottom 22

I have only showed you the hips curve and the neckline.

You can use this for the armscye and the crotch of your pants.

I will address those in another posting as there are several issues to show you.

So for now go measure some hips and necks in your favorite outfits. Write the top number on the curve and the bottom number on a master sheet

and put them to use in your pattern making.

Hope this improves all the patterns you
make from here on!

Here is where you can get more information on these techniques.

Using the shoulder slant = Threads fitting DVD Series Torso

Using your french curve=Peggy Sagers DVD Success from the start
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media.htm
This is a great video that will teach you how to compare all your patterns to the clothes you like to wear. If you struggle to understand sleeves this also answers the questions you didn't know you had. I love this video!

"Reading" the Lutterloh Fashion Drawings

2011-03-01T13:35:00.000-08:00

Greetings Lutterloh Fans! Fonnell and I both had a crazy busy holiday season but things are calming down for me a little now. That must mean it's time to get some sewing done right?!

Well, I've decided I need to get some more pants sewn for work but I must admit I have not been entirely pleased with my last couple of pants patterns. Don't get me wrong, I love the fit of all the Lutterloh patterns I've made. I'm just having trouble finding the right pattern to flatter my figure. This is where "reading" the Lutterloh fashion drawings comes in. Most of the major commercial pattern companies use terms like fitted, semi-fitted, loose fitting, regular rise or low rise to describe the fit for their patterns. Unfortunately, Lutterloh gives far fewer directions for their patterns so we must interpret the intended fit of a pattern from their fashion drawings.

The last two Lutterloh pants I sewed did produce pants that fit beautifully and I can certainly wear them but neither one are the most flattering shape for my particular figure. Here is the drawing and pattern pieces for the first pair I made:

On the model I thought this looked like a narrow, straight leg pant. If I were shaped like a narrow legged model perhaps this is how they would have fit me. What I ended up with were pants that were too slim in the thigh area and tapered all the way to the ankles; not a good look for me.

The next pattern I tried was this one with much looser legs:

Although the width of the legs was far more flattering I found the rise of the whole pants to be much higher than I'd expected. So, even though I have two pairs of pants that indeed fit, I don't feel all that comfortable in them.

Learning from my mistakes

Now that I have some more time to sew I am determined to find a Lutterloh pants pattern that will both fit comfortably and flatter my shape. I did learn a few things about my fit preferences while sewing the last two pants patterns. First, I need a roomier leg width to accommodate my fuller front thighs. Secondly, I prefer a lower, shaped waistband to a straight one. I also learned that, like most ready to wear pants, Lutterloh patterns are a little short on me.

With all this information gleaned from my first two patterns I decided my next choice should be analyzed a little more carefully. If you look closely at the two front pants patterns you'll see that the zipper placket is shorter on the first pattern. This lower rise in front combined with the back yoke of the second pattern will help me alleviate the gap I sometimes get in back from my slight sway back. I know I need to look for a wider leg but I don't want it to be slouchy like the second pattern. So, this is the pattern that I've chosen to try for a happy medium:

I'm hoping this pattern has all the elements that I liked from the first two without the pitfalls of my previous fitting woes. I have the back yoke to adjust for my sway back, the shaped waistband and the wider legs without being a true wide leg pant. I may need to sew deeper seams when attaching the front waistband. I noticed the zipper placket appears almost as high as the second pattern. I will definitely leave off the front cargo pockets too. I don't need a puffy pocket right on top of the fullest part of my legs.

Onward and Upward

To cut down on surprises later I like to do a little flat pattern measuring of my pattern before I cut it out. First I will measure across the mid thigh area to be sure I have enough room. This pattern looks good for me. Next I will find the knee position of my pattern to determine where I need the extra length I've been missing. Although Lutterloh patterns give us the cross mark for lengthening/shortening lines, there's no point in arbitrarily lengthening there if this will then drop the knee point below my actual knees. Here are a couple of drawings to demonstrate how to find the knee position on your pattern.

The drawing on the left shows a red line at the bottom of the front pant leg and another red line at the crotch point. This is done before any seam or hem allowances are added. Now if I take this pattern piece and fold the bottom red line up to meet the red line at the crotch point the resulting crease in between represents my knee position. I have marked this as a green line in the drawing on the right.

When I paper fit my pattern I found that the knee position was right about where it should be already. So, since this pants pattern has fairly straight legs, I've decided to just add the extra length to the bottom of the pattern. I want to make sure to have at least a one inch hem allowance so I'm adding three inches to the length of the front and back leg pattern at the hem.

Evaluating the finished product

Well, I'm finished with the pants and I'd say they came out just as I expected this time. The waistband hits me at my natural waist, the legs are wide enough to accommodate my front thighs and finally I have pants that I can put in the dryer without fear of ending up with floods. Here is a photo of my finished pants:

I made them out of a flat sheet that I was going to donate anyway. I see no point in getting rid of perfectly good fabric if I can use it myself.

Now that I've tried a few different pants drafts from Lutterloh I think there's just one more I should draw out to truly evaluate if I have found my favorite. I still think I need to try a true jeans pattern draft. I will look for one with the yoke in back, a shaped waistband, straight but not wide legs and a zipper fly that appears a little shorter than the last two pants I've made. I'm still trying to find a waist that is high enough in back to avoid gaping but hits slightly below the waist in front. I do believe I'll have to start with a waistband that hits below the waist in front and then make a longer crotch length in back to compensate for my swayback; nothing I haven't done before.

With all the practice I've gained through making all these different pants patterns I'm confident now that I can accurately "read" the Lutterloh fashion drawings!

Yes we are still here

2010-05-10T23:08:00.000-07:00

I'm delighted to see new Lutterloh owners getting to work making vests and figuring out the issues to making patterns.

Ann and I have put a lot of great postings you can work from on this blog. You'll see them linked over on the right. We are here just listening in for possible needs so feel free to put your comments on any posting, we do get these.

I hope you are having a good time with all those new patterns. We find a good Lutterloh pattern book great night time reading!

Enjoy!

p.s
There is a link on the right for making knit patterns into woven.

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/01/red-group-using-knits-on-lutterloh.html

Some Spring Sewing

2010-03-23T15:40:00.000-07:00

So, were you wondering what ever happened with that basic pattern I was slicing and dicing in my previous post - "More Manipulating of Lutterloh Patterns" ?

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/03/more-manipulating-of-lutterloh-patterns.html

Well, I finished the outfits for my niece's birthday present. I'm sorry I can't have her model them for you but her birthday isn't for a couple of weeks yet. Here's some photos of the finished outfits nonetheless.

Here's the pattern that I used for the pants. I eliminated most of the details to make the sewing faster. These are just lightweight cotton capris so I didn't see the need for the pockets and fly zipper anyway.

For the pants pattern I still cut out the front pocket piece in case I wanted to use it later. When I cut out the fabric I just taped the leg pattern over the pocket pattern and cut them as one piece. I still drew in the fly extension on the pattern too but I folded it back at the center front dashed line so I could just sew a center front seam there.

It's hard to see the yoke detail in the back but it's there. I used buttonhole elastic in the back only so the front will still lie nice and flat. That buttonhole elastic really is ingenious for thin little children who only seem to get taller but not much bigger around.

I hope you will all consider these kinds of changes to a basic pattern to stretch your Lutterloh catalog. With a little ingenuity and some testing on inexpensive fabric you really can have a bunch more designs in your repertoire.

2010-03-15T15:49:00.000-07:00

Cheryl has been working from the bottom up and we are so delighted she didn't give up. Ann and I both think the Vest has to be the start then all projects get easier. Way to go Cheryl! By the way sleeves are always a bit of a challenge.
F.

Attached is a photo of my finished jacket. I am really pleased with how it turned out. Here's what I did:

First, I made the Lutterloh vest. I used it for a sloper for fitting. I followed your instructions on your blog for that, and it was easier than I expected. Then I made my pattern for this jacket and used the sloper to make sure everything was in the right place, (waist line, bust point, etc.). I made a muslin of the jacket first for practice. I did have to shorten the waist. This jacket is a princess line in front with a two-piece sleeve. The fabric I used is a moleskin from my stash. Since this was sewing for weight loss, the princess line is good. I didn't line it so that I could take in the seams easier as I lose weight. However, this pattern would be nice with a lining, but that's another project.

I did have to rip out the sleeves after the first try since I noticed a little twist in the way the sleeve hangs. Repositioning the sleeve helped that, but I think I didn't get the curve of the cap just right when I drew the pattern. However, the sleeves look alright, but next time the curve needs to be different somehow.

I learned a lot about fitting myself, and I thank you very much for the help you gave me. I like Lutterloh patterns much better now. This jacket was fairly easy to sew together by following the way the pattern is connected. The seams that are sewn together are matched on the little pattern.

Well, Fonnell, thank you very much for arranging this sewcial. I have been following Ann's garment also, for knits, because I have some knit fabrics to sew, and I worry about getting them to fit without being too tight. I appreciate her help also.

Thanks,
Cheryl

More Manipulating of Lutterloh Patterns

2010-03-12T15:53:00.000-08:00

In this tight economy who doesn't want to get the most bang for their buck? Here I'll outline how I'll use one simple pattern to create a couple more designs with more pizazz.

For those who want to follow along as I make my niece's birthday outfits this is where I'll start. As I mentioned in the previous post:

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/03/lutterloh-system-for-children.html

my niece K is quite small for her age. I recently made a corduroy jumper for her that fit great, so I've decided to start with that pattern for her tops.

Above is a photo of the fashion drawing and the corresponding pattern pieces I'll be using. There are actually additional pieces for the contrasting yoke and pocket pictured but I won't be using those.

Because this pattern uses such simple pieces I like to use it as an opportunity to manipulate the pattern a little to get some more interesting designs from it. I'll start with shortening the pattern by a few inches for a top because K let me know that she does not like to wear dresses. I wish I'd known that before I made the jumper.

So, with a little drawing on my small scale pattern pieces I came up with two different new designs. There are so many adorable fabrics out there for children that I want to use several of them in these outfits. Here are rough drawings of my new designs for this pattern:

The pink lines indicate where I'll cut the pattern apart to make new pattern pieces. The upper pattern will produce a top with a panel effect allowing me to use two different fabrics. I'll be sure to end my princess line at the same point on the front and back shoulder so they match up. Because I don't have to worry about bust shaping for a princess line pattern for a toddler I can just add seam allowances on all the edges except the center front where I'll cut on the fold. I wouldn't recommend this kind of slicing of the pattern for a grown woman. Once you cut through the bust area there are a whole set of issues you must address to fit the rounded bust area. Below is a photo of my new pattern pieces for the first design. I have relabeled them with the familiar Lutterloh symbols to distinguish them from the original pattern.

A = front, AC = side front, B = back, BC = side back

The second design will allow me to make a top with a yoke and contrasting gathered skirt. On the full size pattern I'll need to start the yoke line at the same point on the armscye and then measure up from the bottom edge on both the front and back pieces for the end point. I'll then start with the same number on my curved ruler to draw the yoke line so the curve will be close to the same, front and back. I'll need to slice my pattern up some more to get enough fabric to gather onto the yoke. Here's what it will look like cut into pieces.

To get the fullness I need to achieve a gathered skirt I've split the pattern in three places all parallel to the center grainline. On each pattern piece I make sure to start the first and last split at least an inch away from center front or back and again an inch away from the point at the armscye. I just make the center split at a halfway point between those two.

I want to spread the pattern so I end up with nearly double the fullness of the original. I measure the length of the curved seam from the center front or back to the point at the armscye to determine how much to spread between each split. Let's say the top of the pattern piece measures 5 inches. To double the fullness I'll need to add 1-3/4 inches between each split to increase the width to about 10 inches. Once I fill in the spaces with paper I need to draw a new cutting line to smooth out the curve at the top. In the photo above I've marked this in pencil.

Below is a photo of what the pattern pieces will look like all filled in and relabeled with the Lutterloh symbols. Notice I included the wavy line at the top of the skirt pieces to tell me to gather there. Stopping the gathering before the armscye will make it easier to finish the armhole with binding.

A = front, AL = front yoke, B = back, BL = back yoke

Now, before I do any slicing and dicing of my original pattern I will draw a new copy to keep as a master pattern. This way I can start with this same shape over again by drawing new copies for each new design. I'll also draw copies of the facing pieces I've worked out for this master pattern. Once I sew the princess line pieces back together I should have the same shape as the master pattern so I'll use the same facing pattern pieces. For the yoked top I'll just cut two each of the front and back yokes and use those for facings.

Alrighty then, this is the general outline for starting K's tops. I'll get to the pants later but I'm anxious to get sewing.

For the finished photos go to :

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/03/some-spring-sewing.html

If you're interested in more ways to stretch your patterns with similar techniques check out this post :

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/10/making-most-of-your-lutterloh-patterns.html

The Lutterloh System for Children

2010-03-08T13:13:00.000-08:00

I don't know how many of you sew for children in your lives but I'm about to start a birthday gift for my niece and thought you might like to follow along.

Just like adults, children come in all shapes and sizes. Lutterloh does have a size standard that they design for to help us judge what size we should be working from.

Unfortunately neither of the children I sew for fit this scale that Lutterloh uses. This doesn't stop me from using the Lutterloh patterns for children with great success though. For children Lutterloh wants us to use only the chest measurement. Even very thin and rather plump children still have little shape to their torsos so the chest is usually the largest measurement we need to fit. An exception to this rule would be for a very round child whose tummy extended past their chest measurement. In this case you may need to use the waist measurement to fit pants and skirts. The key is to make sure to choose patterns in the correct size range and make adjustments for length.

So how do I decide what the correct size range should be? Well it just so happens that both of the children I sew for are 5 years old. However, both of them are very small for their age. My friend's son I'll call "R" is just small all over and rather short legged. His chest measures 56cm. My niece "K" is very thin and only slightly shorter than her classmates. Her chest measurement is only 54cm. As you can see, compared to the chart neither of them come close to what Lutterloh thinks a 5 year old should measure. I typically choose Lutterloh patterns in the 2-6 year range for them. According to the chart K doesn't yet fit into the 2-6 range but I know she has a vastly different shape from a 1 year old baby. Choosing patterns for a baby for her would result in garments that were way too short all over. Babies tend to have shorter, plumper limbs than older toddlers so I at least need to stick with a toddler size range.

You'll see from the 1976 photo above that Lutterloh generally tends to categorize their patterns in ranges that cover about 4 years with some overlapping going on. If you had a rather "large for their age" 4 year old you might very well be able to use all the patterns on this one page. I have found that for K I can now use patterns in the 2-6 up to the 4-8 range. Because I use her chest measurement my patterns fit great in all the circumference areas but because this measurement is so small I then need to lengthen them all. The smaller range patterns I usually only need to lengthen a couple of inches but I recently drew out top and pants patterns in the 4-8 range that I needed to lengthen by more than 5 inches.

So, when deciding what size range to use for your child, you need to consider their stature as well as their measurements. Ask yourself is my child average sized compared to other children their age? For very petite children you may need to use a smaller size range than their age. For the bigger, fast growing children you may need to use patterns intended for slightly older children. Just remember to always at least paper fit your pattern before cutting out your fashion fabric. This should give you an idea if you need to make any length or ease adjustments before any fabric is wasted. If your child is far from average it might be a good idea to make a test garment in an inexpensive fabric first. This will help you determine the adjustments you need to make to all the child's patterns in this range. At least until they grow again. :)

Check out the next post:

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2010/03/more-manipulating-of-lutterloh-patterns.html

for more info on the patterns Ann will be using for K's gift.

From the orginal Blog I deleted

2010-03-07T21:02:00.000-08:00

I first started this Blog to help anyone trying to use the Lutterloh system. When I was asked to remove my blog I lost this posting. Today by magic it was found. I say Magic because I have no idea why someone else had it online but I was able to find it and return it here.

Soon you will see a posting from Ann that will get you started in some more sewing for children. I can't wait! Until then enjoy how I make Lutterloh patterns for babies!

Tuesday, April 14, 2009
What to do if the size is a small child

I have many old Lutterloh books from all over the world. The fashions are breath taking, the history is loud and clear. There is a new baby in our family, a grand daughter and her mom wanted a special dress for her church ceremony. I took out my books and found this sweet little dress. The book it is in came from Brazil so I can't read the pre-directions in the front. he he!

#107

The only problem I found is Penny is only a tiny thing and she measures 46 on the Lutterloh ruler. If you look you will see there isn't a 46, the smallest it goes is to 50. If I use 50 that will make this dress TOO BIG. You may run into this one day and so here is what I did.

1) Put the holding pin in the bottom most hole and put it through the X in your pattern

I used pattern #107 below. Lets make the skirt

2) Make a second ruler top by printing a copy of yours on card stock.
You will use this to remove the extra.

3) Do a little math on the newly printed ruler. Penny's pattern will be too large by three spaces 46 to 50 on the ruler count to the 4Th line to get the three spaces. A sticky page marker put on the spot helps. Or just work from a number close to yours I used 66 and put a marker and went to 60 on the card stock tape top.

4) I put my pin in at 50 and Penny needs her pattern made at 46. The first number on the skirt pattern is #23 at the top waist. I pull my tape out and find #23 on my original tape then I lay my printed card stock tape top on the #23 line and measure off my three spaces. I made my mark there. Don't be tempted to just add on the original tape measure because it won't be correct. It is slightly different. Be sure you put your Dot on the correct side of the tape, the side that lines up with the Number #23 line at the pattern.

We are subtracting the three spaces for the correct size.

I have two tapes the green shows the 23 the pattern showed the orange tapes show the amount I must remove. Yes remove. so I put my dot at the top orange mark, 3 spaces above the bottom orange tape.

Once you do the math this goes just as fast as any pattern would and I got a perfect size pattern. I always lay the pieces out and measure to be sure I have the kind of ease I would want in a pattern.

Penny is a baby and everyone will be picking her up and down so I wanted to be sure there was room for her comfort. She measures 17" in her chest and the pattern made 22". That is 5 inches of ease and that will be plenty and work with that full skirt.

This is the finished dress. My daughter in law wanted the dress shorter, only to the babies feet and she had the idea for adding the ribbon. I can't wait to show her my Lutterloh baby dress! I think I would have removed an inch of the ease now that I see it on her but I was far away when I made this dress and could only guess by using the measurements.

Something you might find helpful

2010-02-27T21:07:00.000-08:00

I know many beginners find it hard to know where to start when sewing patterns they made themselves. Unless you are seasoned with the step by step of sewing a blouse, pants, a skirt etc you will look at your Lutterloh outfit all cut out and may not know where to start.

I know this is a bit unusual but I am only loyal to helping you enjoy sewing. So here it is. This Bonfit American Fashion sewing instructions book is excellent! It's not very big but very comprehensive. They take an outfit and go step by step though how to sew it. From this you can do it again and again with many styles. It is only one method per fashion piece but that is OK when you are a beginner or even forever if you like. There is fabric advice and interfacing ideas, and step by step for skirt, pants, dress, bodice and jacket.

I got my copy off of eBay but I have seen them on Amazon.com. I've put the cover up above so you get the correct one. This one only focuses on how to sewing instructions. Don't get one of the many others put out by Bonfit.

I was surprised to see Connie Amadin Crawford co-wrote this book. She lives here in the Pacific Northwest and my contact with her has always been very positive. She knows her stuff!

Hope this is helpful!

The BLUE Group patterns for weight issues

2010-01-23T00:08:00.000-08:00

This is the Blue group

and here is our first finished project!

Congratulations Joanne

What a great job figuring out a new way to do this pattern!

Making this jumper has been quite an enjoyable experience. It was somewhat like doing a puzzle...challenging to the mind, but I enjoy challenges. My main concern was my hip area. I wasn't so concerned how the top would turn out because my vest fit well without alterations, so I thought I could just make adjustments in the hips and thighs... well, it wasn't that easy!

My first challenges were in drawing out the pattern. The center front had so many dots and lines where it gathers that it was difficult to tell them apart. It also took me a while to figure out that the 5 dots going across the top of the center front were actually the neck line. It looked more like a shoulder seam to me, but after doing some basting and gathering the front, it was much easier to see. By the way, this gather line made the dress very difficult to paper fit...which lead to other difficulties later.

The other challenge I had with drawing the pattern was that my bust measurement made my waist dots come in what I thought was too far - so I ignored the waist dots and joined the ones above it to the dots below the waist. A mistake!

My next project was to figure the amount of fabric I would need. Thanks to the suggestions on a previous post on this blog, I laid out my pieces on the floor to measure. I bought exactly the right amount of fabric! Thanks for the post!

In sewing the jumper together I found that the waist was 7" too big and the bust 5" too big. I could take it in at the sides, side backs, and back - but not the side front because it would make the drop waist seam not match up.

The hips were just fine and the fitting was easy. I used 3/8" seams over the thigh and hip area. No problem there.

I didn't put a zipper in because the fabric is stretchy. It slips on nicely.

I think there are three reasons the top was too big.

1. I didn't do the waist dots right.

2. After looking at Ann's post - she doesn't add seam allowance for knits. This wasn't a knit, but it is stretchy. It probably has some spandex in it. I could have left out the seam allowances.

3. The last reason is that I now remember I used a smaller bust measurement to make the vest because I wanted it to fit when I drop some pounds. Perhaps if I had remembered and done that with this it would have not needed so much adjustment.

All in all, I am happy with the results. Thanks so much for letting me participate in this event and for all of the great information!

Joanne
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Fonnell is working on this pattern

The first thing I consider in choosing a pattern is how it will look on me. Weight gain and weight loss can hit different area's of our body. A good look in a full length mirror will help you see your shape. Your shape will determine what looks good on it.

There are hints for every body shape for dressing. Now we have TV shows, book after book and even web sites devoted to finding your body shape and how to dress for it. I can make a couple of recommendations for books you might like. I use my local library a lot. But truly there is a lot of information on dressing for your shape.

I am 5 feet 5 inches tall and I am a balanced vertically. My waist is in the middle etc. I would work perfectly into the golden rule pattern for body shape in the vertical! It's the horizontal where I loose the battle. My rectangle shape has a bulge in it. My shoulders are slopping and this adds to the horizontal issues. I know I look better in skirts that slant as wide as my waist. I look better in princess line tops so that the eye will look down the line and go onto the skirt line and not focus on my heavier bust. So this is what took me to choose this pattern.

When I draw up my skirt pattern I will be very careful not to make it too tight. I want it to look balanced with my wider waist area. I love the godets because it will add some kick and width at the bottom so my legs don't look too small (yes they are smaller) If I make any one part of my body look smaller than the rest it will throw off the balance and that will make my large areas look larger and my smaller area's look much smaller. So reach for balance in your pattern choice.

My 2010 goal is to loose a lot of weight so the seams in this outfit will allow taking in as I go. I will be looking for some ways to make that easier as I go, like the buttoned elastic.

The top is made in a knit but I don't have to make that knit tight, I want to make sure it hangs off my shoulders without grabbing my waist. First I must choose the knit fabric before I even begin to make my pattern for the knit top. I need to know how much stretch is in my knit fabric. If you don't know about all the many kinds of knits and how to use each I highly recommend this online class, it's wonderful!

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-in/sewingclasses/index.pl#342

This should be a quick outfit to make. In looking at the pattern right away I see that I need to pull the waist of the skirt out straight and perhaps make the sides a little wider so the skirt is makes a wider line than my waist. Likewise the top has a pulled in waist and a dart. I think I will straighten out the side seams and use my dart and seams to get the fit I want. The red lines just my plan. Knowing that I do this in most all patterns. There will be more I'm sure.

Did you know that a 3/4" sleeve will bring the eye down past the middle of your body and draw the eye away from a larger bust? Where a sleeve ends can make a big difference in the flow of the eye. Can you picture my pattern with long or short sleeve. It makes the outfit look different.

Summing is all up: Knowing something about your body shape will help you choose your pattern. Finding patterns with extra seams will give us places to subtract or add to depending on our need.

Reading you could do to determine shape:

Dress Your Best by Clinton Kelly & Stacy London-I like this book because they used real people and let you see the outfits they thought would improve the body shape. My body shape wasn't exactly in the book but I learned a lot. Great read.

Does this make me look fat? by Leah Feldon-some drawings ,no photo examples but great written ideas IF you can picture what she is describing. What would a few pictures have hurt! She covers everything even jewelry choices so it's worth a read if you have time.

Looking Good by Nancy Nix Rice (Palmer/Pletsch) Great drawings and a nice brake down of subjects. Body shape is nicely covered. I skip the color work and fashion style, you can not put me in a box, in a group. It just won't work. Some days I'm classic some days I'm a romantic some days something else. Making the wall drawing of your shape really tells you a lot. This book looks like it walked out of the 80's so don't be looking for style just information on shape.

Fit for real People (Palmer/Pletsch)- Great information start to finish. This is a sewing book for getting a pattern to fit you but the examples are great and the first couple of chapters have tons of great info.

Dressed to kill.....gently By Peggy Sagers- I liked the way she determined your shape with a few measurements, the drawings get you thinking, but you decide what is right for dressing for yourself. I feel that's true with all the books they each have their own strong ideas but you must decide this for your own life, location and personality.

Staging Your comeback A complete beauty revival for women over 45 by Christopher Hopkins, also does it with measurements also and a nice little test or two. Fun. I loved this book, so Hollywood!

There are more but really....Lets choose a pattern and work!

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This chart is for my body shape and tells me what outside shape I can use to best use with my own shape. The chart for all body shapes can be found in "looking Good by Nancy Nix-Rice (a palmer/pletsch)

As you can see if I do a triangle shape over my rectangle shape I get the illusion of hip curves....Well not exactly what I want....But the inverted triangle shape looks interesting. Keep watching for more of my sewing for weight and weight loss.

******************************************************************

As the next phase in making my outfit for weight loss I gathered some supplies.

A calculator, pencil and paper, tape measure, Scotch removable tape, my pattern page and my pattern paper, my packet with my tack and Lutterloh ruler, etc.

I know many of you bought your lutterloh system because you were told it would fit with little or no adjustment. I however share no such belief. I know ALL patterns need adjustments for me. So because this is very true I have taught myself how to adjust patterns. It leaves me having no fear of any pattern. You will find a great freedom to love your lutterloh patterns if you add some fitting skills. It's your choice. Learn to fit or put that book of patterns in the closet so that 10 years from now the next willing seamstress will have a chance at it. Sorry to put it so bluntly but I feel this is so often the case.

Now let me help you do a bit of fitting.

Measure yourself in a few more places:

Bust

chest (above bust)

Waist & distance from from shoulder over bust and down to waist

hips & distance from waist to hips.

width of your shoulder (from where your neck starts to where the bend in your shoulder is if you raise your arm)

Mostly this is all I need but I do keep a front cardboard sloper that notes how low I am willing to go in my neckline. This way if I love an outfit but it's too low I can lay the pattern drawn on my paper over my sloper and see how low and correct it. It's an easy fix to raise things up to where I prefer.

Ready

1. using your known number on the lutterloh tape, draw out your pattern pieces using your bust (or chest combined) and your hip measurment. Do Not cut them out yet and leave plenty of space around the drawing for adjustment.

2. Starting with the bust, measure the front and back pattern around the bust line, hopefully you will find this easy to find. One the waist once you measure the pattern you must also measure from the shoulder over the bust to the waist to see if your bodice pattern will be long enough. Same with the hip. This is just a beginning as paper fitting will tell us a lot more!

3. Get a paper and draw three column's on it. In the first put your measurements for each area. In the 2nd column put the measurements we are taking from the pattern. In the 3rd we will figure out our ease and our needs, write in the difference between the numbers in column 1 and 2.

4. I know that my chest and shoulders are much smaller than my bust so I make my lutterloh pattern with my chest size mostly and do the larger bust adjustment. If you know that is your issue do that now. (how to do this to follow or look it up online)

5. Note the difference in your measurement from the pattern. Is it very much? if you choose a princess seam like mine I have 8 seams to spread the changes within. note the difference in column 3

6. Continue to measure the pattern at the waist, hip and check that your shoulder is long enough or short enough.

Get all of this ready, all three columns filled in and stand by for what I will be doing next

write the figures on the back of the pattern if you wish

My front sloper with neckline low noted with red arrow

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http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/09/difference-between-ease-and-fullness.html

Today I'm going to ask you to please read the posting on ease, link above. Or re-read it. All of what we do next is about the different factors of ease.

Get to know what amount of ease you like. If you are making a top go to your closet and find the top you like most. The one that feels good on you. If you don't have anything that you love the fit of you will have to experiment as we make Lutterloh patterns.

Now pinch on one side all the ease. Pinch at your bust and note the amount. Pinch at your waist and note the amount. Pinch at your hips (coats and long tops) and note the amount. For skirts and dresses be sure and pinch the hips also and maybe even lower taking note of the distance from the waist you took that pinch at. (measure one side of the pinch and double it)

Armed with the following you will be ready to adjust your pattern

1. Your list of favorite ease amounts (pinch project!)

2. your measurements for bust, high bust (chest), shoulder, waist and hips

3. The pattern you are makings measurements for these areas

Tomorrow I will have photos of how to do a paper pattern fitting so you won't make mistakes in the fabric but only on the paper!

If your chest measurement and Bust measurement are at least 2 inches different please go to this web site and read up on the larger bust change you can make.

http://www.timmelfabrics.com/fullbustalteration.htm

This link is so clear cut any one can adjust for a larger bust and I know I do it all the time!

http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=486

This link has a project done step by step

Go ahead and test this out. Draw your pattern using the chest measurement and then make this adjustment. Paper only. Do a paper fit and see how it goes for you.

********************************************************

I think today I'd like to cover paper fitting your pattern. Above is a coat pattern one of our readers is trying to make. I find most everything I need to correct is found in paper fitting. First make your vest and get it fitting just perfect. Note everything you must change. When you draw up your pattern, before we do anything, you can make those changes you made in the vest. I always have to bring the hips up and make my shoulders smaller. Every time I make a pattern.

If you took your measurements and put them in a column you can now measure the pattern. Are there big differences? If so wait until the next posting to continue. But if you are almost matching in most areas then you have the correct size on the lutterloh tape and we just need to do some paper fitting!

Now it's time to paper fit the pattern you just fixed with the vest changes. Because I am a round person I leave the sides uncut on the paper pattern, but I cut out all the rest of the pattern. The extra paper on the sides allows me to add in the areas that I need most.

I have a sloper I lay on my patterns to see where I would be within that pattern. Already I can see that the arm scye is going to be tight, I can tell that the coat is too long and there is no ease in the pattern, which I know a coat needs. See what it looks like when I draw a line around the cardboard sloper onto the pattern.

It is hard to see white paper on a white table but click and it will enlarge.

see how my sloper lines are right against the pattern lines? That leaves me no ease at all.

This is a coat pattern and it has many pieces. You draw the multi-pieces as one and then cut them apart into two or three. Do draw some lines across the two pieces before cutting them apart. That way you can match them easily. In this pattern the back is in three pieces, the sleeve is in two.

This sews up like a jeans jacket. I think I'll make some in some fun tapestry fabric. It's heavy and can be worn unlined.

In pinning the pattern on the back half I carefully make sure the center of the pattern goes down the dress forms center. Or if trying on yourself make sure you pin the center to your center. (use what you are wearing to pin to) By keeping the pattern level and going down the center back I can see what needs to be adjusted.

I try to always adjust on the sides not the middles.

This pattern is too wide across the shoulders and not wide enough in the hips. I untape the sides to let the pattern open to what I need. later I will tape some paper in the space and divide it in the center. I use re-useable scotch tape so I can remove it for using the pattern for the fabric. You can't leave it on for a week or so it will just come undone!

There are bubbles of fabric in the front and back shoulder. This means one of the pattern pieces is too long. Because this pattern has the back drop into the front it takes a little careful consideration to choose where to fit. Remember NEVER over fit. A coat needs more ease anyway. The sleeves will pull some of this bubbling down but I do want to shorten some of it.

All fixed now. In the end I will change the shape of both pieces so that the impact of change is slight on the back piece and the front and so that the yoke line will be nice.

I like how it's fitting now.

Can you see how the back yoke is also the front yoke?

Here is the arm scye with both the front and the back put together. For sure I'll need to lower this some and then walk the sleeve into the pattern to see if I must add some on the sides of the sleeve. The sleeve is in two pieces but I would only add some to both edges.

A better look at just the front piece. I added some on the side and then cut off the spare paper so I can fit the back to it. I DO NOT add my seam allowances or hems for paper fitting. Just butt your papers up to one another and put on a piece of tape.

Here I have taped some paper in the opening in the back. Because this is where two pieces meet I will divide the paper down the center. Add horizonal lines for matching.

When I lay this bottom piece on the table it's clear it's not matched well. I leave the bottom taped so I don't loose how wide it needs to go and I re-tape the top until it's flat and then take a ruler and run it down the center. I cut it out and then just taped it back together. Now the jacket goes over my hips.

This outfit is too long for me. But I did all the changes first and then will shoten each piece at a place it won't change my work to fit the hips. You could shorten the coat first but if there are bust changes you might find you needed some of the length left in the pattern and you'd have to add it back...he he

Here is the whole pattern. The pattern was tight around the hips (or tummy!) so it didn't need the dart called for in the front. I however felt the style needs that dart and it makes a nice vertical line in my clothes to help me look slimmer. So I cut open the area where the dart would have gone and I will add paper there to make enough ease for a dart. It doesn't have to be a big dart just needs to give me that vertical line.

I'm still pretty sure I'll need to drop that arm scye some. This is a current fashion and it's not a factor of another time period. I find it odd the area is so tight. Someone else found it too loose. If you don't fold down the back so it bends into the front yoke you will have a much too large arm scye.

The neck is decorative and it may be too high on me so I'm going to put this paper pattern on myself and see. If so I'll bring it down some. I'll let you know how it fit me.

It's really nice if someone else will look at the paper pattern on you. Tell them to start at the top and look at one area at a time. If helps not possible strive for two mirrows so you can clearly see front and back. When doing this on yourself be patience and make tiny changes, re-try on and then make another change. It will help in avoiding mistakes.

I bought two mirrows at linens and things, the kind that hang over a door. I go up into the hall and am lucky to have two bedroom doors at the right angle for seeing the front and back.

Do you have any questions?

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Joanne is joining the BLUE Group:

"Hi Fonnell,

I think I would like to start off with your group. I have chosen this pattern and would like to make a jumper out of it. The jumper would be like 17 without the sleeves. My biggest challenge in fitting is the bottom half. I am definitely a pear! This pattern has a lot of seams in the lower half, so it might make fitting easier."

*********************************************

Cheryl is joining us. She has not had any luck in fitting other Lutterloh patterns and hopes to correct that this time around. Here is the pattern she is going to try. Very cute really.

The RED Group - Using knits on Lutterloh patterns for wovens

2010-01-23T00:01:00.000-08:00

This is the RED Group to follow for the Lutterloh Double Fun Sewcial.

We'll be discussing what changes need to be made to a pattern designed for wovens so we can use a knit fabric.

I would like to start with directing you toward a stretch gauge chart for knit fabrics. The chart is on the last page but I recommend everyone read the whole document. You can find the chart here:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/HES/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-MMB-165.pdf

Here is a photo of the pattern Ann will be using:

Because we will need to remove ease from the wovens pattern I would suggest a closer fitting style and a fabric with no more than 25% - 35% stretch. Some patterns can be reduced to accommodate fabrics with a greater degree of stretch but much more ease needs to be removed resulting in more complicated pattern alterations.

Some considerations when choosing your pattern:

Have you made the Lutterloh basic vest pattern to determine proper fit? It will be difficult to determine the correct amount of ease without a good fitting pattern to compare it to.

Look for patterns with fewer horizontal seams; these seams will need extra stabilization.

Button plackets and zippers will also need to be stabilized. Sometimes, depending on the stretch of your fabric, zippers can be eliminated altogether.

Knits typically weigh more than wovens so necklines and armholes may need to be raised.

Patterns with facings often don't work well with knits. You may need to substitute bindings, ribbing or a turned and stitched edge finish.

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In the photo above I have marked the changes needed to adjust this pattern for knits with minimal crosswise stretch (18%-20%). For knits with more crosswise stretch (25%-35%) the side seams should be adjusted in further by 1/8"-1/4". I wouldn't raise the armhole or length of the pattern any more unless your fabric has lots of lengthwise stretch too.

Notice I have extended the neckline as well. Since this is a wrap dress and my knit is heavier and drapier than most wovens I don't want to chance any gaping in front. I will stabilize this area with clear elastic at a 1:1 ratio when I finish the neckline.

You may have noticed that most knit patterns do not have many, if any, darts at all. The stretch of the knit is usually enough to compensate for the extra fabric needed to go over our curves. If you prefer a bust or waist shaping dart in your knit garments then by all means leave them on your pattern. I prefer to eliminate them so the photo below demonstrates how I will rotate the back shoulder dart to the armhole on my wrap dress pattern.

Photo 1 shows where I have marked a line through the center of the dart extending it by 1.5" to create a pivot point. I then mark another line from the armhole to the pivot point, roughly perpendicular to the center back.

Photo 2 shows where I have cut away the dart all the way to the pivot point. I then cut the line I marked for the new dart up to, but not through, the pivot point. You need to leave a tiny hinge of paper to hold the pattern together.

Finally Photo 3 shows where I have closed the shoulder dart, opening up a new dart in the armhole. This armhole dart will not be sewn. Instead it will create a little more room in the armhole for stretching forward. You will need to add paper behind this whole shoulder area because you still need to true up the shoulder line and the curve of the armhole.
Lastly, I will mark out the waist shaping dart altogether and leave this as extra ease so my dress won't be too clingy. I can always pinch a dart in later if I want it to fit closer.

My wrap dress already has the front bust dart rotated to the shoulder for gathers. If you want to eliminate your front bust dart you will use the same steps as above resulting in a pattern piece that looks similar to the photo below. Again, the armhole dart will not be sewn.
As you can see this changes the angle of the armhole near the bottom so you'll want to rotate these darts before you raise the bottom of the armhole the suggested 1/2".

Because you have changed both the armhole and the sleeve cap you need to measure both lines to make sure they still fit. Do this by turning your measuring tape on edge and walk it around both the front and back armhole edge. You'll need to do the same thing with the curve of the sleeve. If the sleeve curve is the same length or up to 1" larger you won't need to change the pattern. If the sleeve measures smaller than the armhole then you'll need to redraw the curve in the under arm area until the sleeve measures at least the same or slightly larger than the armhole. See the photo below:

When I measured the length of my sleeve curve it was shorter than the curve of the armhole. By drawing a deeper concave curve (in pencil) at the sleeve cap this lengthened the line so my sleeve curve is now 1/4" larger than my armhole.

**********************************************************

I have finished drawing my pattern and need to determine how much ease to remove at the side seams. By measuring my dress pattern and then comparing those measurements to my favorite T-shirt pattern I see that I'll need to remove 1/2" from each side seam. That will remove a total of 2" of ease from the dress pattern. 1/2" x 4 = 2"

In case you're not yet sure how much ease you prefer in your knit garments go to this link to see how the major pattern companies describe ease:

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00027_sb2.asp

Below is a photo of my dress pattern cut out with my favorite knit T-shirt pattern on top of it. I usually wear my T-shirts fairly close fitting so this pattern gives me a good idea of the amount of ease in my altered dress pattern, very little, just the way I wanted.

I have lined up the patterns at center front and center back.

On the front piece you can see the armhole doesn't line up well but once I sew in the front gathers this will draw up all the extra at the shoulder.
The back piece is actually a tiny bit smaller than my T-shirt pattern but I'm not worried. My T-shirt was sewn in a cotton interlock and my dress fabric has more stretch than that.

OK, my dress pattern is all ready to cut out in fabric. I have measured the shoulder seam length, looks good; I have made all my usual pattern adjustments for length, full bust and sway back.

Now that my pattern is ready I will cut out the fabric and start sewing today!

*****************************************************

So today I have been cruising right along sewing up my wrap dress. I did want to point out that I often do not add seam allowances when cutting out knit patterns. I cut right at the edge of the pattern and serge the seams with a 1/4" seam. This in effect reduces the ease in the pattern by another inch all over. I know that I like my knits to be close fitting so as long as the fabric has more than 25% stretch this method does not worry me.

My first seam, naturally, was the shoulder seam. Here's a photo of that seam after I stabilized them with clear elastic tape.

After the shoulder seams were serged together I measured a strip of clear elastic the same length as the shoulder seam and zig zagged it right over the previous stitching.

I decided to take up the fullness in the front shoulder as three released darts (or tucks) instead of gathers. I don't want this dress to actually look like it's from 1979 after all.

I have since attached the sleeves, they went in without a hitch, and serged the whole dress together at the side seams. So far so good, the small amount of ease left in this dress is just what I like. I still need to attach the wrap ties, wrist cuffs and binding around the whole front. This may have to wait a few days until I have a day off again but we'll see.

***************************************************************

Well, I finished my dress this morning and I'll have to say it is a success! The only difficulties I encountered were trying to gather all that flared sleeve onto the narrow wrist bands. Oh and the binding at the edge was a little fussy too but that was just a matter of getting the measurements right. I measured around the whole outside edge and subtracted two inches for a little extra stretch in the bust area.

Instead of using clear elastic and turning the edge I used black fold over elastic and bound the entire edge. This helped to echo the solid black I used for sleeve bands and ties since I ran out of the print fabric. I applied the elastic at a 1:1 ratio from the waist down and stretched it slightly around the front and neck area. This keeps this area nice and snug so there's no gaping at the front wrap.

I used the tips in this article to hem the bottom with no wavy edges:

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4584/a-primer-on-sewing-knits#Fine%20details%20for%20knits

I decided not to sew in the back fitting darts after all. There's a little room in the back but I don't want this dress to fit like a second skin so I'll leave it as is. So I suppose you might want to see a photo, huh?

Here it is all done. My husband even said it turned out better than he'd expected. He doesn't usually have much to say unless the outfit is blue. What does he know anyway?

This will conclude the RED group portion of the Double Sewcial.

Sorry, due to lack of interest in the knits project Ann will be closing her portion of the project early. All the information in her post will remain available in case anyone is ready for the challenge at a later date.

We're Seeing Double

2010-01-22T23:41:00.000-08:00

Sign up now! Choose your pattern and group later!

A new year is always full of surprises

2010 will be no exception

This year we start our Sewcial

SEEING DOUBLE!

Double the time to complete

Double the projects

Double the blog masters!

With each new year comes an opportunity to set new goals.

We are no exception here.

Your blog masters have set some goals for themselves too.

**********
Weight loss is a common goal for many at the start of a new year. But how can we stay stylish and comfortably dressed while our size changes? Let's explore Princess styles, and find some extra seams to help, all out of our Lutterloh books.

Fonnell will be starting with this pattern and will discuss some strategies for sewing during weight loss and some hints for fitting larger bodies from the standard sized Lutterloh pattern book..

Supplement 254 - 2004

If you aren't getting the best use out of your current Lutterloh collection join Ann in exploring some ideas for multi-use of the patterns in your Lutterloh collection.

Ann will be starting with this pattern and will consider what changes are needed to use a knit fabric with a pattern intended for wovens.

Supplement 155 - 1979

Would you like to join us in our sewing adventures?

Here's how this double sewcial will work.

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Since we'll have two months to complete our projects there's no need to limit yourself to just one.

Just pick any pattern from your collection that meets the criteria and e-mail us a photo of the fashion page (use J-peg format) to let us know you're joining in.
Tell us if you are joining Fonnell or Ann that way we can put your photos, experiences and questions grouped together.
With Double the time you can switch groups when ready. Just e-mail us your next pattern and the double group you wish to join.

Our Double Sewcial will start February 1st and run through March 31st. Feel free to start sending your pattern selection photos anytime now. The directions for where to follow the projects will be posted on the sidebar to refer back to anytime.

Double fun criteria:

Fonnell suggests a princess line (garments with seams going down the body over the bust or tummy to the hem) with as many seams as possible. See the examples below.Skirts, tops, dresses, coats what ever you are wanting to sew right now.

Please avoid knits unless you want that stress

I will offer some hints for my princess line knit top while I am making it.

Here are some other ideas for larger wear and for weight loss in mind

A wrap skirt looks good on us when we are large or not.

This cute coat in two styles has a princess line that we can do wonders with and a V neck to make us look taller. The 3/4 sleeve helps make us look thinner I'll tell you why during the sewcial

Notice all the pieces in this skirt and it is slim at the waist and hip and fuller below to help balance a wider middle and bust

This dress has lots of seams for fitting

I love this coat I can picture it in several fabrics, loose home weaves and causal denim, maybe a flax or tencel for the soon to come spring

**********************************

Ann suggests a pattern for wovens with a shape that appeals to you.

Closer fitting styles will mean less ease to remove.

Many patterns can work but very roomy ones will need to have more ease removed.

I will be chronicling my efforts with my wrap dress as I proceed.

As some food for thought take a look at these patterns to convert to knits:

I could see this little girls dress made up in an adorable interlock print.

The center jacket would look smashing in fleece.

Or how about the top and skirt in a slinky knit as the start of a travel wardrobe?

This gathered top would work nicely in a tissue weight T-shirt knit.

The top and pants would be cozy in a soft sweatshirt fleece.

The two dresses scream pique knit to me, like a nice Polo dress.

************************************************

If you want to join us send us a comment on this posting

and go to the side bar for more information.

Okay

LET'S GET STARTED!

Sorry, due to lack of interest in the knits project Ann will be closing her portion of the project as of now. All the information in her post will remain available in case anyone is ready for the challenge at a later date.

2010-01-22T22:27:00.000-08:00

GO........................

2010-01-22T11:49:00.000-08:00

GET SET............

2010-01-21T23:37:00.000-08:00

ON YOUR MARK...........................................

The Lutterloh System Symbols Page - An Evolution

2010-01-10T09:12:00.000-08:00

Fonnell's recent post on facings got me thinking how some people might be confused by the symbols on their Lutterloh patterns. After all, the symbols page has changed a few times over the years.

Pattern #8 from 1939

It's apparent that in years past more decisions were left up to the seamstress, from facings to sewing order, even closures.

Lutterloh symbols page 1950

The photo above is the earliest version of the Lutterloh symbols page that I've found in English. As you can see it's a rather scaled down version of the one that comes with today's Lutterloh patterns. A Key to Signs Used is at the bottom of "Important Rules on Pattern Cutting".

Page from a Lutterloh Home Study Course Manual

1968 Symbols page

Later, more symbols were added to include explanations for things like pocket flaps and elastic. Notice that originally those hatch lines were used to indicate any double layer of fabric. This explains the hatch lines on areas such as darts, pleats and bindings as seen in the photo below.

Pattern #79 - 1969

Still later, more renditions of the symbols page were published. Around the 1980's the symbols for full figure, knits, maternity and contrast color were introduced. Finally the symbol for a zipper was noted and the wavy symbol for ease was changed to denote gathering. In addition more symbols were included for fold lines, closures and fabric requirements.

1980 and 1989 Symbols Pages

With all the letters for sewing sequence and pattern pieces printed amongst the cutting, folding, gathering and waist markings the patterns started looking pretty busy.

Pattern # 279/280 - 1991

The photo below is the current version of the Lutterloh Symbols Page. The newest additions are symbols for top stitching and a 90 degree angle.

2006 Symbols Page

This same angle symbol is sometimes used with the number 45 indicating the fabric should be cut on the bias.

Pattern# 45/46 - 2008

You may be wondering why all these changes are relevant today. I personally find all these letters and various dashed lines and symbols squashed into the space of these miniature patterns sometimes confusing. Hey sometimes there's even a symbol missing or mis marked on occasion. No company is beyond an accidental typographical error. So how are we supposed to decipher all these symbols and lines?

For me, this simply underscores the need to rely on good, basic sewing skills to guide me through. If I decide on a technique that I'm not familiar with I always have a few comprehensive sewing books on hand. As a last resort I can always do an internet search and usually turn up at least a couple links to explain the procedure. It's amazing what you can find by just typing in a simple phrase.

I hope I haven't confused anyone with the presentation of all these different charts. My goal was really to encourage everyone's creative process. Certainly a sewing pattern needs to produce a garment that fits but we ultimately decide on the details. I urge you to interpret the Lutterloh patterns to suit your sewing style! If you are pleased with the final outcome then you must be doing it right!

A quick note for new visitors to the blog

2010-01-08T18:06:00.000-08:00

I've been hearing some chatter online about vintage and resizing them.

How I love the vintage patterns. You can look though the blog and see some that we have worked with. What is different between the obvious style changes?

EASE.

Yes there is a whole posting on ease and that is what is the biggest difference.

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/09/difference-between-ease-and-fullness.html

We have a lot more ease in our clothes now. This ease issue is clearly seen in the way sleeves are done in vintage. Shallow armscye, high caps and yet I like them when relaxed a bit.

I look much better in these sleeves.

You make vintage just like you make today's' lutterloh. Use your correct number on the measuring tape. Make the pattern. You then paper fit and decide what style changes you need and how much ease is needed for you.

See Ann's dress updated from vintage.

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/10/fresh-look-at-vintage.html

Once you understand how Lutterloh patterns are made you will see your tape measure has the power to make any Lutterloh pattern fit you!

Lutterloh designed their fashions on the golden rule. That means the original of the pattern was sized in the balances of the body. You can study more about this system online. I learned it as an art major. The perfect balance found in the human form.

Next when you put find your number on the tape measure and pin it in the middle of the cross of your pattern you are taking that Golden rule pattern and making a graded pattern.

A pattern that goes in increments to create a larger or smaller size.

One pattern (pj top) any size

128 on the tape

84 on the tape

56 on the tape

Pj's for the whole family from one pattern graded

Because of this you can grade any Lutterloh pattern, any time period to your size.

Just plan to update any older styles you don't want to wear on stage!

Do you want more on this subject?

Let us know.....

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/07/i-had-to-prove-this-to-myself-can-scan.html

If you want to see what scanning at different sizes does check the posting above.

There is a list of subjects we have covered over on the right, just click on it and you will see the article. All our pictures will enlarge by clicking on them so you never have to miss out on what is on the pattern.

Welcome

how to FACE the facings

2009-12-31T01:25:00.000-08:00

HAPPY 2010!

With this new year we will be encouraging you to study your pattern books to answer most questions.

One of those things that just isn't clear is FACINGS.

Each pattern, each book, each era seems to present new facing issues. I hope to make some of it clear here and welcome your input as all I can do is make an educated guess at what the pattern is telling us.

When I learned to sew (I'm giving away a lot here) in the 50's we depended on knowledge of methods and not pattern instructions to make our clothing. I started with the Bishop method of working on grain and very few patterns were needed. As we passed into the 60's & 70's patterns were amazing and fun and had step by step instructions that trained us. Yes those step by step methods taught us not to think.

We dumbed down!

We lost the ability to decide for ourselves how we would like the clothing to be made.

I challenge you to get a good basic sewing book and decide for yourself how to do each step of your pattern. There are so many ways to do each part that no one way is clearly perfect in all cases. If you like how it turns out then it was a good method to have used.

**********************************************

FACINGS

The symbols are many for decoding the Lutterloh patterns. These you will see intermixed with the facing symbol. Facings are noted as diagonal hatching and ST, the S notes a trimming. These two can be confused or even used interchangeably

Any garment can be lined this is not noted in Lutterloh patterns.

Interfacing is a choice and is used in collars, button bands, waist bands, cuffs, etc. You will decide when to use these they are not noted.

Look at these pattern pieces and see how to find the facings and use the facings.

The dotted lines between symbols are fold lines, first you see a self facing (hatching) It folds over the elastic (see symbol for elastic above)

The thing you shouldn't forget before folding this down is that seam allowances and hems are not in the pattern so I would add a 1/2" to the top for the clean finish.

But add what you wish to use

The facing on this pair of pants needs to have a separate piece traced and cut out. One thing you can see that helps tell you this is that the zipper marks go all the way to the top of the pant. That tells you the facing might be separate. You need to add seam allowance and a fold over for the hem. You must also add the seam allowance to the pant top. It's funny to see hatch marks in the dart but if you think about it a dart really is faced when you pinch the fabric in half.

This facing is fun. See the button line? On the left of it is the button space so we know that the hatching on the other side is a fold over facing and you do not need to cut a separate piece.

I know that seeing the fashion model helps me figure out the intent of the pattern but really I decide the intent of the fashion so I am having you look at the patterns without the aid of the fashion drawings.

Here we have several separate facings.

How do we know? That circle half dark half light is for contrasting fabric. You must add seam allowances.

You also have two arrows used to show different pieces on the front edge so you draw the pattern then cut the front in two separate pieces. In the fashion picture the front piece is cut in the fashion fabric not the contrast. I'm not sure why there is a separate piece if it isn't in the contrast. Odd shape for a button band. It looks as if the button band is a self facing one that you just fold over but do add some hem turning space.

I have several ways to do the contrast fabric. If the top and sleeves are the length I want I will sew the contrasting fabric wrong side to wrong side and fold it toward the front of the fabric. This will make it easy to keep the 3 cm width at the bottom of outfit. It uses mostly the main fabric as the back of the contrasting area. If you wish to sew it to the bottom right sides together and fold it to the underside you need to double the size and add that hem fold over. Other wise the contrast will barely show. Luttlerloh vintage has a lot of contrasting features. This is something we can cover in another posting.

Here the facings are separate and need to be cut separate on the back neck and on the front button band and collar. Add seam allowance and hem finishing length. The bottom appears to be a folded hem but we don't see other hems marked in this way so it may be a facing. We do know it is 3 cm wide.

This is a front pant zipper the hatching is a fold over facing but there is a separate zipper piece 4 cm by 16 Cm that also has a fold over facing. The waist band is separate and the other hatching may be just a folded area. Easy this time.

The pocket needs several pieces. I make these pockets all the time and we call each piece something different to keep track. The hatching is a separate facing piece cut in that shape shown using the pocket lining piece as the mold. I have fun with this and use fun fabrics for this facing.

The front zipper is a center matched zipper and you fold back a self facing on both sides and put the zipper uncovered into the pant. Feel free to cover it by making another piece as in the pant pattern above.

This is a fun sleeve bottom. For this I'll show the fashion picture. See the line of double stitching? Those are the two lines very close and parallel. The other line that is farther apart is believed to be a fold line. This makes me think this is a mock cuff. Find out how to make one in a good sewing book.

On the right coat a possible mock cuff on the left a self facing folded up cuff

Figuring out this facing means when you fold up the cuff you have the wrong side of the fabric showing. See photo above. Think this through carefully. How do you make a nice looking cuff?

A knit bathing suit with elastic and self facing. No raveling with bathing suit knit so I don't add a folded hem I just sew it down.

Separate facing. Many times you can connect or enlarge facings to include button bands, back facing or even bodice lining. The size of facings is a suggestion.

OK your turn.... what facings do you need and what kind are they?

THE QUESTION: Are hatch lines only facings when the ST is on them? Are they just turned areas if not marked? Are the dashed lines folds for darts, tucks, as in placing a front center on the fold? Or is it used for any folded fabric meaning that when present we don't need to make separate facings? Which dashed lines are top stitching, which are folds, which hems?

So many questions! Let's find the answers shall we?

sleeves the lutterloh way

2009-12-26T22:36:00.000-08:00

I hope everyone has enjoyed their holidays'. I know how bad the weather was in many places but that just makes us get into our sewing more. A good question was asked on doing the Lutterloh sleeves. Here I am showing you the method shown in the books. In the next post I will show you some additional helps.

In the pattern for a two piece sleeve you see the cross for putting your pin in. You will make both pieces putting your pin in the one cross but you will cut the pieces out.

CAUTION

Before cutting pieces apart....

Draw a horizontal line across the pin hole making sure it cross the two pattern pieces. This mark will be your matching mark for putting the two pieces together. The distance you see from that point to the wrist is a type of dart. When you put the sleeve together that will pull the sleeve in and may need a touch of easing to get it together.

Next we need to find the center of the sleeve top. I have left the drafting number above the sleeve center. When you draft this number be sure to put a center line into the pattern. You may not see a center line in the vintage sleeve so my next posting will be helpful for those patterns.

One thing about the Lutterloh sleeve that really works for me is the front fitting of the sleeve. (see example below of shape of sleeves) It follows my shoulder and makes the sleeve look great on my slanted shoulder. Patterns you buy at a store today create the sleeve to be nearly equal on both the front of center and the back of center. Yes that makes the pattern fit anyone but not usually with much style. Because of the fitting of the front of the Lutterloh sleeve you will need to fit the center to center line and fit the ease into the back as needed.

See instructions from the 2000 pattern book for sleeve fitting below.

See how fast the slop of the front drops?

And how gradual and long the back drops?

makes a better fitting but more challenging to fit sleeve.

you can click on this to enlarge it but most likely it is in your pattern book already.

Holiday Dazzle Sewcial

2009-11-10T19:52:00.000-08:00

I'm starting to receive holiday invitations and thinking

"What will I wear?"

Join us in a Holiday Sewcial

Look at your pattern book and see what you can turn

into a holiday outfit, a holiday gift, or just some fun sewing!

It's amazing what can happen to a blouse pattern if.....

I use dupioni silk or sparkle buttons, maybe velvet piping

I can add fancy embellishment and my pattern will cry out "Happy Holiday"

Or maybe it's Pj's or a robe you want!

In the spirit of a No Stress Holiday

there is no need to sign up for

this sewcial and no deadlines.

Share your ideas, photos and struggles if any.

Put some Dazzle in your closet!

It's a HOLIDAY SEWCIAL

Start now

Our fashion beauties came from a Dec 1933 French fashion magazine I own

*********************************************************************

Pam is getting started with a plan!

Well here is my plan for the Holiday Sewcial. Forget about the dress, I’ve changed my mind (I am a woman, right?) Picture this.........beautiful soft flowing peasant blouse made in an embroidered metallic cotton, white & gold,

teamed with a pair of white pants, slim legs, made in textured stretch cotton.

Just ordered my fabric online so back to the quilt while I await its arrival.
Regards
Pam from South Australia

The top is #117 from the current book and the pants are from Supplement 257, #31.

Ann managed to get some gift sewing done the week before Christmas

My friend says she's lazy about putting on sunscreen so she requested a rash guard. I just used a raglan sleeve turtleneck pattern and shortened the sleeves.

I always make flannel pajamas for her son for Christmas too!

I used the same pajama pattern for my niece and girled it up with some lace. Because I used a rather boyish print I wanted to change the shape of the top to make it more girly. I used the exact same pattern but folded it at about mid armhole level. I added 1/2 inch seam allowances and cut separate top and bottom bodice pieces giving me a yoke and a skirt piece. To add more fabric for gathering the lower bodice I didn't lay that pattern piece on the fold. Instead I moved it away about 4 inches giving me plenty of extra "ease" to gather onto the top bodice. My niece loved her new jammies and had not a word to say about the boyish print. Guess I can still get away with this with a five year old ;)

The many possibilities! let's make a slip

2009-11-08T19:30:00.000-08:00

Chart for how I work on patterns

(Please note any fitting issues from your vest before beginning.

Make the needed adjustment to patterns you will use to make slips etc.

before beginning the below process.)

WANT MORE than just the fashions in your Lutterloh book?

Ann and I have been showing you how to change the fashions to fit your needs. Many of you have said you need slips, aprons, sleepwear & bras and those patterns aren't in your books.

Let me show you how to make a full slip from a sheath dress.

If you want to see an apron made from the sheath dress check out the Apron Sewcial photos!

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/10/vintage-apron-sewcial.html

First choose a pattern that is close fitting with simple lines

You've seen this one before. Each book has at least one.

Here is the pattern I am going to use.

A sheath dress

This dress is perfect for a fitted slip.

It has the traditional 2 darts in front one dart in back.

It takes a couple of steps but do a mini practice run on a scanned and printed copy and you will see how very easy this slip pattern is to make.

Also once you make the changes to the bottom bodice

you can put it back together into a sun dress for summer!

********************************************************

Before we start making our slip here is how I think of my patterns.

Looking at the drawing at the top of this posting you will see my model broken into seven work spaces. I can cut my pattern at these points and make changes and then reattach to the whole.

Let me explain each space

space#1 This is the shoulder, armscye and chest area. Garments hang from this area.

I like it to fit it perfectly so it deserves careful fitting.If we need to be smaller in this area yet are busty Ann suggested you take your measurement under the arm and over the chest in this area. You may move darts to the shoulder here, or add a bit of gathering at the bottom of this area. You will embellish here but mostly you work on fit in this space.

space#2 This is the area I make bust changes in. Darts move within the dart circle in this area. The slip will be designed using space #2 & #3.

space#3 THIS is a GREAT area for design ease. You can play in this area, do you like fitted or free and flowing. Do all that right here. You can widen it and gather it against space #2. You can make it as long or as short as you wish. This is have fun and design space.

space #4 This is our hip area and it requires some careful fit. It is one of the easiest places to get a correct fit. This does include the crotch which drives many people crazy. Once this space is fitted you have skirts and pants galore you can design.

space #5 Another careful fitted area. The armscye and shoulder and upper arm. If this fits then you can have any kind of sleeve beyond this area.

space #6 & #7 Design areas. Any kind of pants any kind of sleeve can be added to this line.

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Lets have some fun cutting our pattern

Find the waist line markings and cut the bodice off of the skirt at that line

#1 We will first work on the bodice to make it tighter and lower.

The goal is to make sure the slip is well hidden under your outfit and not so loose as to cause bubbles under your clothes.

#2 The next line will be made at the bottom of the armscye. You will be removing Space #1 and working on space #2 & #3. You can choose how high or low you want your slip by where you decide to put and cut this line. This line can start at the underarm and angle up to where it will be in the middle of the chest.

Decide how low you want your slip or sundress to be. Lay the paper pattern up to yourself and see where your bust circle goes. You will need to put the line higher than the bust circle. I have marked my cutting line in red.

Doesn't look like much now but it's soon to be a top of a slip

You could sew straps on this, connect it back to the skirt and have a slip

but it would be much nicer if we did some fitting so that the top line is snug.

How to do a fitted slip bodice.

Try to hold the paper pattern up to yourself (I use re-stick able scotch tape to put back and front together) and pinch to see how much you need to tighten things up.

You just might find this impossible. Often you need to get some scrap fabric and sew the front and back together ,sew the dart and pinch at each side right at the side of your body. Pin the pinched amount closed and measure to see how much fabric we need to remove to tighten up the top. You can do a good guess at how tight you'd like this and process with a test run.

A pinch is two sides so measure one side but do remember it is double that amount.

Lets say when you pinch you find you need to remove 2" on each side. (a one inch pinch)

That is 1" for the 1/2 front pattern and 1" for the 1/2 of the back pattern.

Really a total in the bodice of 4 inches

#3 It's easy to remove the 1" from the back piece (we are only working with half a pattern)

We remove the ease in both the dart and the side

Cut up though the dart until you have two pieces

I cut the dart out in the picture below.

tape the top back together

by over lapping 1/4" at the top swinging to leave the dart open but not as big as before

and then remove another 1/4" to 1/2" inch on the top side tapering to nothing at the waist.

The red areas are where the back was made smaller

Do the same thing to the front as so..............

Remove darts, cut straight up from waist line up through to top of bodice.

Make a 2nd cut from side across the level part of the dart and to the first cut

We have three pieces now. We will be keeping both darts but they will be shorter

Tape the front back together over lapping the top seams by 1/4" and removing 1/4" to 1/2" off the side. You still need the darts for the fitted slip but they will be a bit shorter.

You can trace this on paper and do a paper fitting, my first choice or test on fabric.

Once it feels like you like it to fit.............continue to..................

Add bodice bottom back into the skirt.

Put the bodice back on the skirt. Decide if the skirt shape meets your shaping needs. Shorten the skirt of the dress (I never want any of my slip to show unless I made it to do so!)

If your skirt is tight add a side or back opening for leg movement.

Add straps just above the bust point and over the shoulder to the back.

It looks a bit odd but once the darts are closed it's a fitted slip!

Now for some Optional slips ideas

I cut a bra shape in the top of this slip, it would be pretty in lace.

I shortened the slip by a lot and gave it a little bottom flare for a cut princess dress that so many of the kids are wearing.

You can cut your top line on the bra shape any way you want just center it over the bust point.

Lay a paper pattern over yourself and draw in a slip shape you like in the chest area.

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Below are some examples from a 1940's sewing book. It is out of print and all it teaches you is how to hand sew these items.

However there is so much to learn from looking at these finished slips and reading the descriptions, it will also give you ideas on shaping that front bodice piece.

Not Lutterloh patterns

My favorite tools for making seam allowance

2009-11-06T01:51:00.000-08:00

My metal marking ruler and my tailors chalk for marking seam allowances

There are different ways to mark your seam allowances on a lutterloh pattern

but this is my favorite.

It's a tiny metal do it all ruler

It has 2 inches at it's largest and goes through 1 inch, 1 3/4", 1 5/8", 1 1/2", 1 3/8", 1 1/4"

Then on to 1/2", 3/8", 5/8", 3/4", 1/4" and finally 1/8"

Now isn't that amazing? All in one little spot.

This way I can mark any size seam I want in any place I want.

I move my slot for 5/8" seam allowance along the edge of the paper pattern

As I go I put a tiny dash of the chalk

This will not be within the finished garment area, mostly I end up cutting right though it

You can see the little dashes along the silk

When I am all finished marking all the edges of the pattern I cut using the dashes as my cutting line. I'm careful to cut smoothly and to remember to mark the sizes for hems and folded in button bands etc.

Normally I would use 1/2 seam allowances but I am using a Hong Kong finish on the seams of this light jacket and I need the extra to work with the edges. I cut the neck edges 1/2" as they will have a Mandarin collar and 1/2" is all I need.

I wouldn't be without this favorite tool!

Karen surprises us with her creativity

2009-10-24T01:05:00.000-07:00

Karen has surely put her skills into this lovely apron!

Autumn Apron with Ruffles

Being a member of a quilt guild here in Germany, I wanted to combine quilting with this apron project. Both the ruffles and the pockets helped me choose this pattern.

Then, at a recent quilting retreat, I was given a lovely piece of brown linen from their excess fabric. There was a leaf fabric in my stash that matched perfectly, and I got even luckier when I realized that the golden hexagon flower I was making would go nicely. So I made a second one, and it all fit together nicely. Making a second flower was easy, and it was fun to quilt them to the pocket pieces.

Fitting the pattern required some adjustments, since my hips are 3 sizes larger than my bust. The change was easy, though, by just extending the back edges enough to cover what needs to be covered.

This was my 3rd Lutterloh pattern, and for the first time I didn't make any drawing mistakes. I drew my patten on some clear plastic drop cloth that I bought at the hardware store. I use those permanent markers that work on CDs.

This pattern was only the apron body, so I had to design the pockets, 2 ruffles and the straps. For the top ruffle I cut 2x the length, and the bottom ruffle 1.5x. After breaking normal thread while trying to ruffle the fabric, I ended up doing it with quilting thread.

About this time, I really missed having instructions, like when I buy a commercial pattern, so I wrote out the instructions myself. I even wrote down when I should iron the various pieces.

There wasn't enough leaf fabric to make the complete straps, so I used leaf over my shoulders, then switched to linen for the ties. I made the ties extra long so I could tie them in front in a nice bow.

Almost done, just the bottom ruffle and straps. Then I sewed the bottom ruffle onto the wrong side of the fabric. Tedious stitch ripping followed, but the straps went together easily. I added small strips on the inside of the back to hold the straps in place when wearing the apron.

Finally fitting and placing the pockets was the last step. I may still go back an add some darts in the bodice, but for now, it's DONE!!! And I love it!

What did I learn?

Lutterloh gets easier the more you do it.
It's much easier to adjust a Lutterloh pattern than it is to adjust a commercial pattern.
I was much better than I thought I would be at creating those extra pieces. It was actually fun.
Linen is a dream to work with.
I adore the patchwork flowers, and am now working on a full quilt (Grandmother's Garden).
Developing these adjustment skills means I want to keep modifying this apron. Now I want to add more patchwork, darts, change the straps, ...

Making the most of your Lutterloh patterns

2009-10-20T17:36:00.000-07:00

What if my pattern collection doesn't include the style that I'm looking for?

This is one of those FAQs that comes up often. Even though Lutterloh manuals come with a full 280 patterns these days there may be a particular style that just isn't included in your collection. This exercise is meant to help you make the most of the patterns you have. With a little dart manipulation you can change the style of a basic pattern to a different style. Below is a bodice worksheet and a link to Fonnell's post with a dart movement chart to help you with this exercise.

http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/09/how-to-use-vest-pattern-as-sloper.html

Feel free to save this image to your computer so you can print it out as many times as you like.

This happens to be the front pattern piece for a top but the same principals can be applied to any dress pattern as well. There are already many pages on the internet devoted to demonstrating this technique so I will include links to a couple of my favorites here:

http://rustybobbin.com/blog/?p=355

http://alittlesewing.blogspot.com/2009/05/rotate-that-dart.html

The basic premise of this exercise is to close the side bust dart on your pattern and then move that fullness to another area of your pattern. Here are a couple of examples of what I came up with when playing around with my miniature patterns.

The pattern on the left would move the dart to the upper neckline which could then be sewn in darts, tucks or soft gathers. The example on the right would result in a gathered center front neckline.

Contrary to the video that I linked to above, I like to leave a tiny hinge of paper at the bust point so my cut pieces are still attached to the pattern.

I displayed the altered pattern fronts against a colored paper so you can see where additional paper will need to be added to your pattern. The cutting lines where you have opened new darts will also need to be trued up so you will have smooth transitions from center front and neckline like this:

I have marked the new cutting lines in blue pen. On the right you may notice I have marked two lines. For the one in pen you would need to add seam allowances and would result in a center front seam ending at the bottom of the gathers. For the line marked in pencil you could still cut the bodice front on the fold of fabric but you would need to gather the center front more, perhaps with some clear elastic at the gathers, resulting in a slight V neckline; my personal preference for this style. Depending on the size of your original side dart you will likely need to smooth out this cutting line as well.

Maybe you have a simple sheath dress pattern and need to dress it up for an evening out.

Almost every Lutterloh book I've seen has a basic sheath dress style in both average and full figure sizes.

If yours doesn't don't let that stop you from taking a top pattern and extending the length or if you need just a top how about cutting the pattern off at or below hip level.

Here are a couple of examples of rotating the darts to give you some embellishment opportunities.

When the darts are closed at the neckline on the left or the shoulder on the right you can easily add some strings of rhinestones or pearls to dress up your sheath. Of course the fabulous fit of your dress will shine through making this an excellent choice for that "little black dress".

One more option for a dressier style might be a slightly draped neckline. This is achieved by transferring the dart to the shoulder but opening it up at center front like this:

Notice that I have drawn back in the center front straight up to the neckline. I have also flattened out the rounded neckline a little. The drape of the neckline will create your round neckline again. Keep in mind that draped necklines typically drape much better if the pattern is cut on the true bias grain of the fabric. I have drawn in a new grainline at a 45 degree angle to the center front.
Note: If you cut the pattern off grain to the true bias you can get twisting of your draped neckline.

I don't want to overload anyone with too much information at once so I'll leave this exercise to just bodices for now. If you're interested in even more information on how to change your current patterns into more styles I can recommend a few books that have many more examples.

Practical Dress Design by Mabel D. Erwin - my copy is from 1954 but there were previous editions from 1933 & 1940.

Designing Apparel Through The Flat Pattern by Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin and Lee Gross.

Patternmaking for Fashion design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.

Fonnell's favorite is Pattern making by the Flat pattern method 4th edition by Norma R Hollen.

I believe these were all textbooks at one time so sometimes they are a little technical but still worth reading through. All of mine were acquired off eBay at one time or another.

If all this slicing and dicing of patterns seems a little overwhelming to you I would still like to encourage you all to take a second or even a third look at the Lutterloh collection you have. If you look closely you will probably find that you have a pattern for nearly any garment you might like to make.

Please consider all your options, for instance: on patterns with waist seams you can exchange a straight skirt for a fuller one and vice versa. Dresses can be used as nightgown patterns, nightgowns can be used to create full slips, elastic waist skirt patterns for half slips and the list goes on. I hope you're beginning to see the possibilities here.

Take another look at your Lutterloh patterns and I hope you too will see that you have a real goldmine at your fingertips. Just open your mind and let your imagination work!

Of course for the new sewers and our readers who just don't have time for all this there are always more Lutterloh patterns all figured out for you in the seasonal supplements. In fact if you visit the German Lutterloh site at the link below there are previews of the supplements all the way back to 1993. Check 'em out here:

http://www.lutterlohsystem.de/modeergaenzungshefte/index.html

Another apron report

2009-10-13T14:50:00.000-07:00

Nancy has submitted an excellent report on her apron experience also.

See all the details below.

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I will start with a little background on myself. I am 40 years old and have been sewing on and off for at least 20-25 years. I am self taught and really started to sew a lot when I started my family. I made most of their baby & toddler clothes, Halloween costumes and some of my clothes as well. Now that my children are all grown up I want to start sewing again on a regular basis to make my own wardrobe. I am 5 feet tall, short waisted and a plus size. I have always had trouble finding nice fitting clothes in stores. So that is why I invested in the Lutterloh system hoping I can find patterns that are flattering to my figure, comfortable and fit like a glove. I have always sewn with commercial patterns and the only fitting I have done is basic shortening nothing fancy. I don’t really have any fitting or drafting experience.

When I first heard of the apron sewcial I thought this would be a great way to get my feet wet using the Lutterloh system. I drafted my pattern and figured I didn’t need to test anything out with an apron as it is pretty straight forward there shouldn’t be any fitting issues, WRONG lol. Once I had completed my apron I realized that there was extra material on either side of my bust that wasn’t very flattering. This issue is easily solved with adding a dart to the side of the bust. This would of been easier to accomplish in an earlier stage had I taken the time to check. So this shows that it is important to do a fitting, even for something as simple as an apron!

Another thing I noticed is when I looked at the picture of the pattern I selected I thought there were 3 front pieces. When I looked at the pattern pieces I saw there were only two, so the pictures are not always 100% true to the styling I guess.

They did not include the shoulder straps but that was simple enough to make myself. I just measured the length I needed and cut a strip 10cm wide, stitched it into a tube, turned to the right side and pressed it with the seam in the center back.

The one thing that I did modify on the pattern before cutting out my material was the length. I am only 5 feet tall so the original pattern length came down to at least my mid calf. I wanted it above the knee so I needed to take off quite a bit length wise.

Well let’s just say trying to take a picture of yourself in front of a narrow mirror on a door in a poor lit basement is a challenge. I tried my best but the pictures are not that great.

I can’t wait to see and hear about everyone’s apron project.

This project has given me a basic understanding of how the Lutterloh system works. I do think I need to make the basic vest, a shirt and a pair of pants and test out my fitting skills. Right now they are non-existent so I think I will be online with a lot of questions for everyone. I am looking forward to doing some more sewing in the coming months.

The first apron photos are in!

2009-10-10T16:49:00.000-07:00

Suzanne gave us such a good report and lots of photos I thought it should have it's own posting. There is also a copy of the finished apron on the Apron sewcial posting.

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Pinafore apron - #249 Lutterloh vintage – for 6 year old daughter

Materials: Lutterloh pattern, rotary cutter and mat, cardboard pattern board, removable scotch tape and eraser pen ( Clover® Chacopen Water Soluble Eraser Pen- Blue) I fit my children’s clothes on a child’s dress form that can be found on the Atlanta Thread and Supply web site. (Search for promotional coupon on line).

Playing Detective:

1. used the chest measurement for the measurements above the + and the hip measurement for those below the + on the pattern. The eraser pen is a real help when the
dots have to be changed.

2. position the pattern with the dotted side close to the edge of the pattern/tracing paper to accommodate the 37.5 cm. that flares out on the apron.

3. don’t forget to mark the + on your pattern/tracing paper.

4. I had ordered the designer and tailor’s curve when I purchased the kit. Use the designer curve to connect the bottom dots: 37.5, 25 and 24.

5. there appears to be a slight dip at the neckline between 34 and 33.5.

6. to balance the apron pockets, I positioned one where I wanted it and sewed it to the apron. I “balance” pockets, etc. often by sight. I then folded the apron in half and pinned the second pocket over the first pocket. I unfolded the apron and sewed the second pocket.

7. I made 2- 1”wide strips measuring about 15.5 “ long and criss-crossed them on the back. My daughter is able to slip the pinafore over her head and I didn’t need to add any buttons or snaps.

Finished Apron!

A Fresh Look at Vintage

2009-10-04T18:15:00.000-07:00

I thought while we waited for some action on the apron sewcial I would share with you a couple of the vintage projects I've completed this last year. Now I have to preface this by saying that when I look at a vintage pattern it is strictly for the silhouette of the garment. I have no desire to look "vintage" but I do find some of the details in these old patterns intriguing.

The first vintage pattern I completed last year I look forward to wearing again soon since the weather is turning cooler.

knit dress from a 1940 pattern

Now we all know there was no such thing as Lycra back in 1940. In fact the Lutterloh books even show knitting patterns for hand knit garments so I'm pretty sure this dress would not have been made in a knit fabric. My aunt tells me it probably would have been made from a silk fabric of some sort.

This knowledge does not deter me from making up Lutterloh patterns in whatever fabric I like. In this case a rayon /Lycra blend. The weight of my fabric causes the dress to hang differently than the fashion drawing but I'm still pleased with the overall effect of the details. The swing of this dress is fabulous and as a double bonus the stretch of the knit allows me to slip it over my head with no closures of any kind. I'm sure the original intention was to include a side or back zipper but the oldest vintage Lutterlohs don't include those details.

If anyone hasn't seen my full review on patternreview.com you can see it here:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=37622

Another vintage Lutterloh pattern that I completed over the Summer is this one from a 1957 book.

I didn't write a review for this one so I'll give you some of the details here.

Initially when I saw this model I thought "That is one slim fitting dress, I'd better draw this pattern with a larger number to give myself a little room to breath." Silly me, I should have realized, just like today, people of the fifties came in all different sizes too. I ended up scrapping the first pattern because, no surprise, it was too big. I have since convinced myself to just trust the system and start with my real measurements.

Just like with the older patterns the 1950s Lutterloh books don't always include every detail you might encounter while constructing this dress. I soon discovered that the big buttons up the front were more of a design detail. Since they stop at the waist there is no way to get this dress on without some additional opening. There is no back seam so that left me with inserting an invisible zipper in the side seam, problem solved.

Now as I said I'm not that concerned with historical accuracy when I use these vintage Lutterloh patterns so I decided to make judicious use of our good friend, Velcro. I knew I wouldn't be using the front pockets in this dress so what you see in my photo are just faux pockets. They are just there to hide the Velcro strip where the ends of my sash are attached. Much more useful in my opinion.

I hope this helps the owners of all those vintage Lutterloh books out there to take a second look at what they might use from these old patterns. The fashion drawings in all the Lutterloh books are merely the conception of the artist.

In fact I have one more dress to share with you that demonstrates this point. It's not vintage but I wanted you to see that the fashion drawings do not always tell the whole story. As the final creator of the garment you need to decide if the pattern will work for your body.

I placed my photo in between the fashion drawing and the pattern pieces because I wanted you to observe them side by side.

I realize I am more well endowed than most pattern companies allow for. I am also a little taller than the average woman they design for. However if you notice where the pocket falls on the drawing and where it actually hits on my dress is not the same. These are the kinds of things we need to take into consideration when deciding the suitability of a pattern before we start.

If I tried to make my dress exactly like the pattern drawing I'd have to squash two more buttons in at the top of the placket but there just isn't room. I did embroider the button holes

but even without the extra space there just wouldn't have been room for two more buttons. I've decided I like it better like this anyway.

My point is, when the fashion is displayed with only a drawing it's not always possible to show every detail that might affect it's wearability for your body. Only you can decide if the silhouette, the ease, or even the fashion era is right for you.

Vintage Apron Sewcial

2009-10-01T12:56:00.000-07:00

The Vintage Apron Sewcial has started

Until the end of Oct you can check here for what is happening with the Aprons.

Suzanne's finished apron

Nancy's completed project

Karen's finished apron

Stephanie has finished her apron!

She looks ready for Christmas

So...I'm done with mine, #247. I deliberated about the bust darts...as when the apron is tied in the back the sides are not so bad and the extra room does mean I can put it over bulky jumpers during winter. I may add them later if I feel I want to but want to try it abit first without them.
It doesn't flare out nearly so much as it did before adding the back ties-they seem to have pulled in the fullness nicely. But if I had a larger cup size I think I'd definitely need darts.
The ties were tricky, I got one complete tie out of scraps and pieced two bits of left overs from the scraps remaining for the second tie. They are also narrower finishing to just over an inch thick.
I am happier with the positioning of the front darts than before too.
I decided not to embellish the apron at all, the fabric has a lot going on as it is with pine cones and pine needles- very Christmassy.
The side and bottom hemlines I turned under twice and stitched in the traditional fashion.

I like the slight curve to the front of the apron-abit tricky to pin and press seam in place, but worked out in the end.
So, this has been fun...I have learned lots and enjoyed working vintage style.

Thanks Ann and Fonnell-this is by far the most stylish apron I have.

Joanne makes an apron from a sheath dress pattern

I had so much fun making this apron! At first I decided to just make a sloper, but after marking out the pattern and paper fitting it I thought...Why not use this top to make the top of an apron? Well, here it is. My grandma wore aprons like this one, and I remember opening a gift that came in the mail of a little apron just like hers!

Sewing with Lutterloh is fun. I'm so glad to have found your blog.

Joanne missed the deadline for the Vintage Sewcial but she read Ann's posting on using your pattern books to make most anything you want and she made this great apron. We are so lucky she shared it with us. Thanks!

Mary Ann has finished her apron too!

See her notes and photos below

Well, I’ve finished my apron and am sending 4 pictures in a separate e-mail. I did the center apron on page 93.

I was looking through my late mother’s very old stash of laces hoping to find a red to match the little red strawberries on my fabric. I found red fringe instead. It was very sturdy so I decided to use it for the straps, and it works great. I also trimmed the bottom edge with it.

In the pattern picture of the apron it appeared to me that the straps were attached in front to the points on each side of the yoke. When I attached mine that way I ended up with some other strange points sticking out to the sides that I did not like. See the second picture.

So I ended up putting a dart where each of these two extra points was, and it not only solved the problem, but it also made the apron a bit shapelier, which I think is all the more vintage looking. (Remember in the old movies where the girls had such pointy bosom's?) I also added tie strings--which I made from bias tape--in the back.

This has been great fun, and I’ve learned SO much. Thank you for letting me participate!

MaryAnn

We're so glad you enjoyed the project Mary Ann! Thanks for sending your finished photos.

Naticia has finished her apron. Congratulations!
I tried to do a horizontal bust dart as it seemed that the design really needed one to hang better on my figure. But I ended up ripping it out as it made the apron too fitted for my preference. I think this was a good first Lutterloh project but what I really need to do is a fitted dress that I can use as a sloper. Are modern Lutterloh designs more helpful with pattern pieces such as straps which these vintage patterns lacked?
Naticia

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The older Lutterloh books are very different

Some are just a box of little cards with a picture on front and a pattern on back (top right corner)

Others are 4 cards on one sheet with a book of fashion plates (front)

Some are hardbound books (1950's left corner)

Now see what a page from the 2000's looks like next to the old books.

That pattern card in the back is much smaller than the newer page.

Please remember this blog posting is for all of us to share and learn from the process. Ann and I are not teachers and will be happily enjoying along with you. Please treat our comments as such. One of the group..

smiles

The difference between Ease and fullness and how to add them to a pattern

2009-09-30T11:37:00.000-07:00

You may not be ready for my last posting but this information can be helpful no matter if you have a sloper or not. We are dealing with three things that make our clothes wearable.

1. Basic ease-just enough to move correctly. Drafted into every pattern. (see chart in last posting) Will my pattern fit?

2. Design ease is what is added to give a fashion a silhouette, a certain look, a style or just to add to our comfort. Do I look up to date and fashionable?

3. Fullness is ease added other than on the seams of an outfit and in only the appointed location for the effect desired.

Let me show you what I mean....... Lets do WEARING EASE

This is a cute skirt I was making and the top is perfect for adding wearing and design ease.

WHY?

Lots of seams to work with.

Lets say on the skirt I need 4 inches added to the waist and 2 inches added to the hips. What could be easier with 12 seams to add to. Don't count the fold in the middle we don't want to touch that. READY for some MATH.

4 inches divided by 12 locations

.33333 or 5/16 of an inch per seam...EASY

The other thing I could do is turn the darts into ease, you'd have to measure the distance between the two pieces of the skirt front and back before you do any cutting out. That could means you add even less on each of the 12 seams. Just draw a line up the middle of the dart and cut your pattern out there.

See the dart ease and other waist area's where I've added my 4". there is no longer a dart, it is ease now!

The 2" for the hips will take some study. This skirt has Godet's and we will have plenty of Fullness around our knees so we want to be careful not to take the hip amount down into the knee area unless we need the over all ease.

Lets do some test math.

If I do add the hip ease on all 12 seams what would that be.....2 divided by 12 is .166666... that would be 3/16 of an inch. This would mean I'd have to subtract to the Godot also so that pattern piece will still fit. Much too fussy for me even at 3/16 of an inch!

Instead I would take my hip out only on the outside 4 seams. 2 divided by 4 is 1/2 inch, a piece of cake!

Hint: I could taper the waist out for the 1/2" of the hip and add back in the darts. Remember my waist has added 5/16 for the waist so I would be adding another some of the 1/2 for the hips to keep the seam line smooth. Using only the 4 side seams.

Adding the 1/2 to each side of the outside hip and bringing it up into the waist and down to the hem without using the Godet seam

As you can see in this picture I still have my dart. Remember by adding my hip up into the waist I have extra in the waist and have added that amount into the dart. Some of the dart is still filled in for my waist measurement. A bit of sharing going on here. A little ease a little dart!

We now have 4 inches added to waist and 2 inches add to hips.

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Now it's your turn. Look at the top above.

How many seams can we do changes in on the top?

These are princess seams and they need to go neatly down though the bust point on the front. If you make changes inside the curve make sure you don't move it out of place. You also must note any change that take place in the armscye. The sleeve will then need adjustment. You have a back dart that can become ease also but you do loose form.

OH EVERYTHING that touches something changes it!

In the case of needing more ease in the bust this is the PERFECT place to make changes in.!

Did you get 8 seams and 2 darts for changes?

Even 6 inches divided by 8 is only 3/4 of an inch per seam.

I often need that 6 inches in my bust ease!

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Time for adding FULLNESS

My first thought is when my daughters needed maternity tops made. I took a normal top and added fullness as so.....Remember yesterday's posting of the blouse? Here it is with fullness added for a tummy.

I cut up to just below the bust

You may want that little bit of fullness at the hip just take two cuts.

How about fullness at the wrist of a sleeve. This will be gathered up and my cuff pattern will stay the same size, giving me a nice blousing look at the cuff. If I did this on a short sleeve and cut into the cap it would become a puff sleeve.

FULLNESS is added where you desire and as much as you desire

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These two forms of ease can be added using several different methods.

Here I have shown you the "SLASH AND SPREAD" method.

Nancy's notions has a book Fitting Finesse that teaches the Pivot and slide method.

They all get you the same results and you can explore to find a method that works well for you.

With SLASH and SPREAD you must true up your seams before cutting (remember truing is taking your french curve or ruler and making the seams connect smoothly.

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One last Ease is DESIGN EASE as in the examples below.

See how the pant legs change shape here. Remember bell bottom pants?

All this is DESIGN EASE. We don't need it to move in our clothes. It's all about fashion. What else can you think of where you see Design ease?

Yes FULLNESS is a form of making design ease but it can also be fitting ease.

Where do you see added fullness in these two photos?

The best thing you can do to learn to deal with ease is to look at every pattern you can

study out how it is made and where you can add and remove ease. What is possible?

I have not addressed Knits in these two posting and there is a lot to say about sizing knits

It will have to wait for it's own posting.....

How to use the vest pattern as a sloper/or how do I know what the ease is in a pattern?

2009-09-27T16:56:00.000-07:00

When I made my Lutterloh vest I wasn't sure why it was important. It made up really fast and it did need some adjustment. Large bust adjustments and shorter shoulder seams, and a tiny bit wider hip size.

Let me show you how this finished vest pattern can be your friend in sewing the other Lutterloh patterns.

A normal pattern sloper front bodice has two darts. It takes extra fabric to go over the mountains of our body. In the bodice front you have the breast to go over in the back bodice you have the shoulder blades which are smaller. The front darts can be moved all around and even combined into one big dart or turned into ease.

How you move these darts changes where the ease is in your garment.

The bigger the bump the more length and width it needs and the deeper the darts must be.

Where darts can be moved to (also inbetween these points)

click to enlarge

In the skirt sloper it gets easier, the tummy in the front, the hind in the back.

You only need darts in the waist area for the skirt.

Now look at your vest pattern below. Where are the darts? Two in the front and one in the back that extends for the waist. How is the vest like the normal sloper?

Exactly like our normal sloper actually.

The front darts are in the shoulder and waist, the back has both darts moved to the waist.

The dart that goes all the way into the skirt area is just two darts connected

Remember from the chart above you can move darts around.

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Your job will be to take special care to fit this vest snugly

I'll tell you why in a moment.

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Basic sloper in flat pattern making (not Lutterloh)

click to enlarge

Vest pattern for sizing (lutterloh)

Most of you should have gotten this pattern in a handout. It is also online on several of the Lutterloh sites.

I prefer another pattern that came in the same handout as the above pattern. I like it for the dart placement in the front, more of the patterns have side darts than shoulder. The back dart is more correctly placed also and there is a sleeve sloper which I think is important! I don't use the collar at all I just cut it off of my sloper. And it allows me a jewel neckline with a little tweaking.

However the vest will work just fine and as most of you may have already made the vest I will continue with just the vest.

The first thing I want you to do is take the bottom line of the front vest and draw it out past the pointed edge. We don't want that little opening if we are to use this vest as a sloper. When we are all finished this sloper should look like you all flattened out....I'm seeing a 1960's cartoon coming on where roadrunner rolls coyote flat.

If you have already sized and adjusted the vest pattern be sure it is snug with only enough ease to move in. Next you should remove the extra button band area.

Cut the pattern off right through the middle of the buttons.

Next thing I would do is bring that neckline up. That way I can note the distance I am willing to have necklines low and many have hallow upper chest and this vest will not show that but your patterns will. This of course is opt.

Before I go any further I'm going to explain what we are doing. If we fit the vest closely to our size and then remove any parts of the pattern that aren't "Us" (like button bands that double over themselves, hems etc) then we can use the the pattern as a sloper that matches our body shape

We take the finished sloper, put it on cardboard if you like, and put it under/over the Lutterloh pattern we are making and compare to see what kind of ease the pattern has. Yes ease, if you don't have any you need to draw a bigger pattern. If you want more then I'll show you how to add more to the pattern in another posting.

Don't panic I'll show you step by step.

So now some fitting hints

your pattern should fits as below

1. darts pointing at the bust point (not on it please)

2. waist the correct size

3. shoulder width correct

(let it stop right at the point of your shoulder where your arm attaches, bend your arm to find)

4. no baggie spots in the back or front

5. front meets the center of your body

6. the sides hang straight to the ground

7. The waist line is at your waist

(helps to draw it on your fabric for the sloper)

8. The fabric is not too tight around the hips

9. is the arm hole no more than 1" from the under arm?

You may have to raise up the underarm it is a vest after all

10. The vest is hanging straight down your body off your shoulders and you can move in the vest just enough to breath!

Time to test out a pattern.

Here is a blouse pattern front that I will compare.

It has one dart on the side and a button band and a very straight side line.

I will make my dart match the blouse.

1) I cut out the shoulder dart and taped the edges closed.

2)Then I made a cut right at the side. I tried to match the blouse pattern.

I cut until the pattern would lay flat.

Wala I moved the dart!

Place the vest sloper in the middle of the button band, match the shoulder and see what happens!

So what is happening between my tightly fitted sloper and the pattern.

1. I need more ease. There is no way I can move with the side of that blouse so close to my body! Even with the middle dart closed my hips are larger than the blouse hip.

I will add more to the 4 side seams. THIS IS THE EASE!

2. Look at the armscye. See how deep the vest armscye is? I did not adjust it and you can see the blouse even though it has a sleeve is tighter. I may drop it just a little and make my sleeve that much bigger. You will find this happens most in vintage patterns.

3. The shoulder width is perfect so my sleeve will fall where it should. I may have to slant it a bit for my slanted shoulders. I always do!

4. The neck is within the comfort zone I marked. You can't see it because it is behind the sloper. When I am doing this full size my sloper is colored cardboard and my pattern is in see though pattern paper and it makes this job easier.

5. Looking at the length, I don't like any of my tops to go below my rear so this one is a tiny bit long. So I will shorten it a bit. It has straight side seams so I can remove that extra length at the hem line, nice and easy to do.

6. See the dart? It may be up too high for my shape. I need to paper fit for that dart placement. Why only paper fit? This is not a fitted top so it will have lots of room in it and I can just pinch the paper to point the dart in the correct location and then mark it when I'm done paper fitting. I often do this in the waist also.

That dotted line on the sloper is my waist location. 4" down from there is my high hip etc.

Now the above example is not really me or my size. Below you'll see an empire top I am working on. I drew out the pattern in my normal bust size. The dart has been moved to gathering at the empire waist.

That should be cute as long as it isn't too much gathering.

But as you can see in the 2nd photo the pattern I drew is much too small in the bust. I can do the bust adjustment and will have to do it no matter what but this really is too small so I will draw it again in a larger size and see what happens. Even if I closed the dart on my sloper it is clearly too small a top

The white cardboard is my sloper

The pattern paper is on the right

This is a V neck overlap empire dress actually.

You can see the bust needs more space and the top is not wide enough.

The under arm is OK because I keep my slopers at a sleeve less height and with a sleeve you need more space. The shoulder is good. The overlap could be a lot more so I will re do this.

Remember this is my tool to see where I fit in the pattern. Sometimes I can just add a little to each seam to give me more space in the garment. Sometimes there are just too many things happening and I will redraw. It's fast enough to do anyway.

EASE CHART

average wearing ease in pattern making

This is not silhouette or design ease

see below

The larger your size the more ease you will need

The more casual your clothes the more ease you will want

To test your own clothes that you wear, pull all the ease to one side and pinch and measure. The ease is twice the measurement you took.

Wearing ease

Blouse

Bust 3" waist 1 1/2" Hip 1 1/2"

Skirt

Waist 1" Hip 1 1/2"

Pant

Waist 1" Hip 1 to 3" (measure while sitting for correct amount)

Jacket/coat

Bust 5" waist 3 1/2" Hip 3 1/2"

EASE CHART

Including wearing ease and design ease

Deep breath....one step at a time.....

This is easy when you understand how it works....

Join Our Lutterloh Sewcial!

2009-09-21T10:20:00.000-07:00

Announcing our long awaited
Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial!

In our ongoing effort to initiate discussion about using the Lutterloh patterns we would like to make a
special limited time offer!

From now until Wednesday, September 30th, 2009 we will be taking e-mail requests for the patterns needed to join in our first Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial.

The patterns will not be posted to the blog so be sure to send your e-mail request before September 30th, 2009.
After the start of our sewcial on October 1st, 2009 no more requests will be honored (so please don't ask.)

So how do we start?
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Send an e-mail to:
Fonnell - north7r@verizon.net
or Ann - annotheroriginal@comcast.net

to request the patterns we'll be using. We will send the same patterns to each reader participating in the project all on the same day, October 1st, 2009.

Anyone requesting the patterns will be expected to participate in our Sewcial by sending comments and a completed photo of their project.

What are we making?
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Once everyone receives their patterns we will all begin using them to create our own vintage 1930s and 1940s inspired APRONS!

The holidays are just around the corner! These retro style aprons can make great hostess gifts for Thanksgiving, Christmas, Hanukkah and of course you'll need one for yourself too!

We should remind everyone, these patterns are for your private use only and must not be posted on the internet in any form! This offer is not intended to be a free distribution of these patterns. We expect each recipient of the patterns to send comments on their progress. These can be as simple as a progress update or certainly any questions or helpful tips you encounter along the way. We all know that a picture is worth a thousand words so please feel free to e-mail us a photo if you need to demonstrate a question about your project.

What should we do when we're finished?
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Once we start using our patterns there will be a four week time limit to finish our aprons. We would like to have a gallery of the finished projects so please send a photo by October 30th, 2009 in an e-mail as soon as you are finished. In your e-mail please include a note of your permission for us to post your photo on our blog.

If you don't think you have the time right now to participate in the project discussion, please do not request the pattern. Anyone requesting the patterns but not participating in the project will not receive any future project patterns. Please don't ruin this type of project for the people who truly want to use these patterns. As long as everyone requesting the patterns joins in and we are able to maintain an active discussion there will be other opportunities later.

Remember we are counting on you to keep this an active discussion so everyone can learn from our experiences! This is vintage after all and we will need one another to figure it all out.

My storage solution for Lutterloh patterns

2009-09-18T21:01:00.000-07:00

I've been cleaning up my sewing room this week and decided that my semi-permanent storage for my Lutterloh patterns just wasn't working anymore. I thought I would share with you my more permanent solution.

Since I draw my Lutterloh on butcher paper the finished patterns just don't fold up as small as the tissue paper ones you buy at the store. I had been folding my patterns with the largest pieces on the bottom so when they were folded most of the pieces would be inside the larger ones. This was working fine until I discovered that I needed to put away another six patterns and they just weren't going to fit into the few envelopes where I had been stuffing my other Lutterloh patterns.

Now that I have switched over to using Lutterloh almost exclusively I decided that my filing drawer for patterns had to be purged. This left plenty of room for my Lutterloh patterns which I folded neatly into their own individual 9" x 12" envelopes from the office supply store. I figured since I already copy my patterns to prevent them from damage then why not copy the fashion photo as well to paste onto the outside of my storage envelope? Here is a photo of one of my pattern envelopes complete with sizing notes.

You'll see at the top I added information about the supplement number and year the pattern was published. Below that I've noted the size it was drawn. We all know that from season to season our weight and thus our measurements can fluctuate. If you have the size the pattern is drawn marked on the envelope then you can see at a glance whether or not these measurements are close to your current size or perhaps you need to draw a new one. Since I've made up this pattern once already I know how much fabric I used so I noted that at the bottom under the fashion photo.

Sometimes you're in a hurry and don't feel like messing around with adding the information in your photo software. In this case I just print the fashion photo and hand write the pertinent information in later as pictured above. From this photo I only made up the skirt pattern so I only marked my bust and hip measurements at the top. There was no need to mark my high bust because I didn't use it. I circled the numbers for just the skirt pattern to tell me that's the only pattern in the envelope, I didn't draw the top patterns.

Notice that I didn't note my fabric requirement at the bottom. From my earlier post "Make it work" you may remember that I made my skirt from a remnant left from another project. If I were to buy fabric specifically to make another skirt from this pattern I would need to measure my fabric requirement from a new full width of fabric.

My Lutterloh patterns fit in my pattern filing drawer much better this way now. I can file them in categories such as skirts, pants and dresses and waste a lot less time trying to find a pattern I've already drawn. For now I'm just pretty happy to get these patterns put away and off my table. If you can think of any information that could be included on the outside of the envelopes or even a better filing system altogether I would certainly welcome your comments.

My patterns are too long

2009-09-17T09:23:00.000-07:00

After you sew with Lutterloh for a while you get the idea of how your body differs from the patterns. Make notes to remind you, a recipe card is great, but if you write it on the pattern and then put it away you won't remember everything for next time.

Every pattern is too long for me. This can be too short for someone else, the patterns do not know the ups and downs of your body. Here is how I adjusted my sleep ware pattern.

1) On a Lutterloh sales video it said to take the hole you make in the pattern and use that as your length adjustment spot. Some times that works as in the sleeve below. This time it was close enough that it might have changed the front line angle so I moved 4 inches below the hole.

2) On the pattern I measure my length measurement. I had a body scan years ago and so I go to the waist to neck edge measurement which is 19". Please note that for the Pj I use the dotted line, the hem bottom is the length for a robe.

3) This is only the length to my waist, I do a quick check of my old Pj's and see that I like my tops about 5" below my waist. This is the location I put my line.

Some important things to consider: if when you measured your shoulder to waist you pulled that tape too tight you will leave your top too short. If you are large busted you need MORE length. You can take that tape measure and wind it up and over your bust to make sure there is plenty of length.

4) Make a line all the way across the pattern and cut it out

5) At this point you can make it longer by adding paper.Pull the bottom the needed distance from the top piece and tape in place or like me you may need this shorter. In this case I lay the bottom piece over the top and tape it so that the dotted hem matches the top cut edge. I left the longer robe length on as it made it easier to line up the dotted hem with the cut edge but it could just as easily been cut off at the beginning.

6) Now my top is the correct length but I must true up the side seam before I can consider it done.

To true something is to make it harmonious as one piece. You may get a larger difference from the two pieces being added than I did but the correction is the same. At the under arm make a line that goes smoothly to the hem. If this is a curved side seam you must curve the new one also. Mine is not.

7) Redraw in the pocket and the pattern is ready to cut out of fashion fabric.

Check your whole pattern for length issues.

I also found that the sleeve that should go just below my elbow was really going to hit my wrist.

I checked to see that the shoulder will drop 2" off my shoulder and then I measured the sleeve to see how much extra there would be.

My shoulder to elbow measurement was 14 1/2 inches. So I removed any that was beyond that.

This time the pin hole was a perfect place to make my cutting line.

I followed the same steps as above and before long I had a corrected sleeve pattern.

Here is the sleeve if you wish to click on it and print it. You can take out any amount just to go through the steps to Remove or Add some if you'd like!

Get ready....Set.......Go.......

2009-09-05T00:46:00.000-07:00

We're off and running now! No, it's not a race.

It's time to see some of the fabulous fashions that have been made during our first Lutterloh Sewcial!

We hope you can all draw some inspiration from these lovely photos!

Enjoy!!!

Pam from South Australia - pretty pink pajamas

Ann's PJs for her little friend

Sally's Eileen West inspired nightgown

Ursula's knit pajamas

Ann's "Queen Anne's Lace" inspired gown

Stephanie's completed nightgown

Barbara's vintage - short nightgown

Announcing Our First Lutterloh Sewcial!

2009-08-10T19:09:00.000-07:00

Join Us for a Lutterloh Sewcial!

I hope you have all seen the post about getting ready for our first
Lutterloh Sewcial.
We hope this will be a fun and informative event for everyone!

Our poll reveals that, although we have many readers using older vintage books, a majority are using the more current editions. So, with this in mind we'd like for everyone to pick out a pattern for either pajamas or some other sleepwear from their current collection.

It's a Pajama Party!

This pattern can be for someone besides yourself if you like to sew for others.
If all you have is a vintage book then certainly feel free to sew any sleepwear pattern from that.

As long as this first Sewcial runs smoothly our next one will be a strictly vintage affair so if you'd rather wait, that's fine too.

HOW IT WORKS

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We would like to request that each participant post some sort of comments on their progress.

This is the best way to know how everyone is progressing as well as give inspiration to our other readers.

These comments can be as simple as an update where you are in the project or as complex as a question with a photo of your problem. If you need to send a photo to demonstrate your question you can e-mail it to
Ann at: annotheroriginal@comcast.net

or Fonnell at: north7r@verizon.net

In preparation for the start of the Sewcial we would like a photo or scan of the fashion page for the pattern that you'll be using. This will be a nice way to not only let everyone know what you're working on but will also serve to announce yourself as an official participant in the Sewcial.

Again, your photo can be e-mailed to Ann or Fonnell at the e-mail addresses mentioned above. The photos will all be posted at the end of this announcement in one group.
Feel free to start sending your intended fashion photos as soon as you like.

WHEN DO WE START?

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The official start of the Sewcial is Monday, August 17th, 2009 and will run until Monday, September 14th, 2009.

Don't worry if you can't start right away. Just send you're intended fashion photo when you are ready and we'll add it to the gallery.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU'RE FINISHED?

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When you are finished with your project please send a photo of your completed sleepwear. At the close of our Sewcial we will make a new post with all the photos together in one collection.

So Lutterloh enthusiasts, start leafing through your patterns. We're having our very first Lutterloh Sewcial!

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Pam from South Australia's choice - Supplement #271 - pattern #75 & 76
Here's Ursula's choice - pajamas pattern #237 & 238
Stephanie in AU will be making the nightgown - pattern #236
Sally's choice for a nightgown - pattern #175
Ann's choice - little boys pajamas for a gift - pattern #28 shorts, #29 top
Beth has chosen pattern #222 for her nightgown
Barbara's vintage 1969 pattern
Melody's choice - pattern #246 from Supplement 268

Fonnell's pattern is #154 from the 2000 book

winter is cold and damp here.

Ann's Vintage 1964 choice

Make it work!

2009-07-30T19:26:00.000-07:00

You may find from time to time that after you've drawn your Lutterloh pattern, plotting all your dots and connecting them ever so carefully, that the pieces just don't seem to fit together. Just like with any other pattern there is always a chance of human error. This may be attributed to the pattern company or, in the case of Lutterlohs, it could be due to operator error on our part. Of course its always best to double check your dot placement but sometimes this just isn't the problem. In either case there's no reason to scrap the whole project if its just a small discrepancy. Below is a photo of my latest pattern, a skirt to go with that flowery summer top I made.

After drawing the pattern I noticed that the pocket facing was just not going to fit the curve of the pocket opening on the skirt front piece. If I tried to line up the curves on each pattern piece there was a strange point at the top corner that would overlap in a tent shape and the side seam lines were thrown way off. I had matched the side seam curves carefully to the back piece so I knew this was not causing the problem. I decided the top curve was the most likely offender so I needed to redraw that area. Below is a photo of my pattern pieces with the changes in red pencil.

I lay the skirt front pattern over the pocket pattern to line up the side seam lines and the top curve the best I could. This way I could redraw the pocket curve to match the pocket facing. I then lay the pocket pattern on top of the skirt front to adjust the top curve on the pocket facing. Sure enough they lined up much better now. Since I was changing the lines anyway I decided to extend the outside edge of the pocket, closest to the front facing, so, once the pockets were finished, I could tack them to the front facing for security. I hate my pockets bunching up while I'm moving around.

When I initially named this post "Make it work" it was because of a different issue I had with this pattern before I even started plotting the dots. I wanted to use up some khaki twill that I had left from a pants project. I had more than two yards of fabric left but it was only about 20 inches wide. I chose to use this pattern because of it's rather narrow silhouette. You'll see in the first photo above that the pattern indicates that the back should be cut as one piece on the fold. I figured, why not add a seam allowance and just create a center back seam?

Keep in mind that center back seams in both tops and skirts can work toward your advantage. I have a slight sway back so the center back seam allows me to take in a little more toward the top of the skirt to bring the fit a little closer. A center back seam in tops allows for more adjustments for rounded shoulders and wider or narrower backs too. Patterns with more seams usually indicate a more fitted garment in general. You can think of all those seams as more fitting opportunities.

So here is a photo of my finished skirt:

As you can see, the center back seam doesn't look out of place at all. You and I are the only ones that know I changed it. Hey, I even managed to use up the last scraps from a nightgown I made to make the waistband and pocket facings! So you see, just because the pattern directs you toward one technique doesn't mean you have to follow it to the letter. This is our creative outlet so let's just make it work!

I had to prove this to myself can the scan size make a difference?

2009-07-25T00:48:00.000-07:00

Every body worries that when they scan they will get the wrong size for their pattern

I had to test this and be sure this was really the case. Now I know.

I took an apron pattern and did a pattern at 100% scan. I held the two patterns together against my computer screen's light and they were exactly the same size. Then in another color I made another pattern using 115% and another using 150%. At first I thought the patterns were just cocked on the paper differently, but then I cut out the 100 % pattern and laid it over the other scanned sizes. It was different. Very little at the 115% but plenty at the 150%. As much at 1/3 of an inch all over. So does this matter to you? The darts moved, the neck was slightly off. Maybe it won't be a problem you can't fix.

All the lengths seemed to be fine. You decide.

I do not put pin holes in my patterns, I must scan and use them.

Ann tapes her pattern to the drawing for future reference.

Two great reasons to master scanning your patterns before using them

100% is in pencil
115% is in red lines
150% is in blue lines

All patterns were done in the middle of the cross using the same hole in the pattern paper below

Click to enlarge.

It is very hard to see white pattern paper.
At the very end I re-drew the 100% pattern and laid it over the other two. That is where I found there was as much as 1/3 of an inch off but with layers of white paper the photos didn't show you. Just trust me it was off in the neck, the dart, and the bottom width.
Sorry!

My scanners software allows me to choose the size by percentage and by inches. I find the inches allows me to match things best. I scan the pattern making sure I cut the printing to just around the dark lines around the pattern. I know that many of you struggle with this so check under your setting and find options and see what is possible for you.