Supplement 306 Model #56 - Summer 2017
Pullover Blouse
After all these years of using Lutterloh patterns I thought it was high time I got around to trying a full figure top pattern. I tried a full figure pants pattern once and it turned out to be a waste of time for me. I had heard that the only difference was a longer crotch length. Well, there was plenty of extra crotch length alright. I needed to chop off four inches from the top of the pants all the way around before I could fit them. I have stuck with the regular patterns ever since. Now that I have completed my first full figure top pattern I wish I hadn't put it off so long.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
The Lutterloh company suggests that their full figure patterns are best suited to people with a bust or hip measurement of at least 110cm. My measurements aren't quite there but I thought I would give at least one pattern a try. Frank Lutterloh once suggested that when using a full figure pattern, a smaller person could move down 3 to 5 dots on the Lutterloh scale to achieve an acceptable size. Sure enough, this top is the result of using a dot 4 spaces lower than my actual measurement or the equivalent of 8 cm smaller.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although this pattern does not suggest it I used a lightweight knit for my top. The neckline, with narrow, stitched down facing, is large enough to use a woven fabric and still fit your head through but I wanted some drape to my fabric. Keep in mind that if you do use a woven fabric for this top that you'll want one that isn't too stiff. A limp fabric will be better suited since any fabric that stands away from the body will contribute to the puffiness factor of this top.
Design Changes:
Again I had to lower the neckline for this pattern. This time by an inch and a half. The bottom and sleeve openings also have elastic in mine instead of a drawstring. I could just imagine dragging those ties through my food or getting them caught in some machinery. The elastic in the casings works better for me. I didn't make any other changes because I was trying to evaluate the usefulness of the full figure patterns.
Closing Hints:
Overall I'd say this pattern is a real winner. I may need to lengthen my future patterns, just like I do for the regular size patterns. At least I have the reduction on the scale worked out so I can do this to all the full figure patterns. Yay, this opens up a whole range of patterns I'd been overlooking until now!
If you've been avoiding the full figure patterns because you thought they may be just too large then think again and give them a try. You may be pleasantly surprised. Here's wishing you a fruitful and productive holiday season ahead.
Happy Sewing,
Ann in Calif.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although this pattern does not suggest it I used a lightweight knit for my top. The neckline, with narrow, stitched down facing, is large enough to use a woven fabric and still fit your head through but I wanted some drape to my fabric. Keep in mind that if you do use a woven fabric for this top that you'll want one that isn't too stiff. A limp fabric will be better suited since any fabric that stands away from the body will contribute to the puffiness factor of this top.
Design Changes:
Again I had to lower the neckline for this pattern. This time by an inch and a half. The bottom and sleeve openings also have elastic in mine instead of a drawstring. I could just imagine dragging those ties through my food or getting them caught in some machinery. The elastic in the casings works better for me. I didn't make any other changes because I was trying to evaluate the usefulness of the full figure patterns.
Closing Hints:
Overall I'd say this pattern is a real winner. I may need to lengthen my future patterns, just like I do for the regular size patterns. At least I have the reduction on the scale worked out so I can do this to all the full figure patterns. Yay, this opens up a whole range of patterns I'd been overlooking until now!
If you've been avoiding the full figure patterns because you thought they may be just too large then think again and give them a try. You may be pleasantly surprised. Here's wishing you a fruitful and productive holiday season ahead.
Happy Sewing,
Ann in Calif.
What a flattering top! Thanks for the tip about moving the measuring dots. I'll have to give the full figure patterns a fresh look. I just made my first pair of Lutterloh pants - a ponte knit pair.
ReplyDeleteGee thanks Jacqui, I already have fabric for another one of these tops. I love wearing plaid but hate matching it. I'm going to try this in flannel.
ReplyDeleteSo, how was the fit on your Lutterloh pants? Ponte knit sounds comfortable. The beauty of getting the fit right is these will be the same alterations to every Lutterloh pants hereafter.
I had to take them in 1" on each side but I had eliminated the front pockets so perhaps they were supposed to be a looser fit. The fashion drawing has a long top over the pants so there is no way to know. I blogged about it at http://jacqui583.blogspot.ca/2017/10/lutterloh-282-249.html?m=1
ReplyDeleteI'm a regular size, too, and just made a full figure pattern as well. I only went down two dots, but it worked pretty well. I should have checked here first! Thanks for all the insights you generously share, and Fonnell also :-)
ReplyDeleteRosemary, NZ
I think i understand how to change fuller figure to smaller, I am quite slight, 86 cm bust, would I take that down to 78 cm for all points/dots bust and waist ? And I am 98cm hips, again should I take that down to 90cm for All hips points?
ReplyDeleteSusan don't over think this. Start like any pattern and and just do your normal drawing of the pattern. Cut it out and hold it up to you. If you have a mirror do this while looking at the mirror. Is there too much or too little Ease in the pattern for you? If so I'd start by doing down just 2 dots, cut and hold it up to you again. Some of us love a bit more ease in a summer top. Only you know how much you need.
ReplyDeleteLet us know how it goes, this is such a cute top.
Thankyou, I will try with something I want to do, but maybe I am too slight in the shoulders too, by going down two dots do you mean 4 cm ie, 86cm actual, down to 82cm on the tape?
Delete