Sunday, April 28, 2024

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 332 - Model #23 - 2024
Shirt Dress with cut on sleeves
 
    Hello again from California. It's taking a while for the weather to warm up here but I thought I would get a jump on some sewing for Spring/Summer. The pattern for this dress is such a simple shape but a belt transforms it into a chic piece to dress up or down for lots of occasions.
 
Pattern Hints:
    As I mentioned, this pattern is a very simple shape including straight sides, cut on sleeves and POCKETS. There are only 4 pattern pieces to enlarge, front, back, collar and pocket. From the symbols included it appears as though the front facing should be folded back on itself but I believe there may be a mistake. Below is a picture of the front pattern piece. The only symbols I erased are the numbers to enlarge it to your size.
    The dashed line, to the right of the button symbols, would appear to suggest that you should fold here to form a facing. However, when I enlarged my pattern, I found that if I folded the pattern here that not only was the neckline the wrong shape to fit the collar but it was also too short. I believe there are symbols missing here to indicate a separate facing to be sewn onto the the front edge. When I measured the length of the neckline and the length of the collar I found them to be nearly identical. The red line is where I drew my actual facing because I knew I wouldn't button this dress all the way to the top. 
    Like others have found, the collar pattern draws out taller than the fashion drawing shows. Mine ended up about 1 ⅛" high. When I measured some items in my closet I found this type of collar to be only around ¾" tall. It was easy enough to adjust this when I added the seam allowances.
 
Design Changes:
    Other than the changes to the facing shape and collar I only made one other style alteration to this dress pattern. I found that the length on this dress would hit right at the largest part of my calf. I know this length just doesn't suit me so I cut it without a hem allowance and then folded the bottom up 3 inches so it now falls just to the bottom of my knees. To give the hem a little bit of weight I applied fusible interfacing at a width of 1 ½" and folded this up twice.
 
Fabric Used/Suggested:
    This version of the pattern is made up in a soft, quilting weight cotton. I had a nice big piece in my stash in shades of blue that just makes me happy. I was hoping to use some flower shaped buttons but found the selection at JoAnn Fabrics to be slim pickings. 
    The pattern does suggest a woven fabric for this dress and I can imagine using a rayon blend, chambray or even a silky type fabric for a dressier version. This would probably work in a medium weight knit as long as it was stable on the lengthwise grain.
 
Closing Hints:
    For the simple shape of this pattern I'm pleasantly surprised with the outcome. It will definitely be put away for future use. I will admit that without the belt this dress is pretty straight and sack like. I am hoping after a few washes that the fabric will soften a little. Even if it does wrinkle in the dryer the basic shape should be easy enough to iron in a jiffy.
 
Here's hoping the Spring weather will brighten your days.
 
Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,
 
Ann in Calif.