Supplement 305 - Model#202 - Summer 2017
Princess Line Capri Pants
A while back I was offered a free Craftsy class and I chose a pant fitting class from Sandra Betzina. The pattern was very similar to this one but it didn't have pockets. When I saw this pattern in the newest supplement I knew I had to try it.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern was simple enough to draw out. The front and back patterns are drawn as just two pieces and then cut apart at the princess lines. Because there are extra seam lines there are more opportunities for adding or subtracting to achieve a better fit.
Once all your lines are connected but before you cut them apart, make sure to mark all your pieces carefully. Some of the pattern pieces look similar so you don't want to get them confused. In fact I left my pattern pieces pinned on my fabric until I was ready to sew them together. Sewing this pattern was very much like putting together a puzzle but everything lined up flawlessly.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
These pants are made up in a 100% cotton twill. This medium weight twill started out a pale icy lavender but I dyed it to a nice pinkish lilac color. Because I was working on perfecting fit I didn't want any stretch in the fabric. I do think my next pair will either be a softer, drapier fabric or perhaps a lighter weight with some stretch. The stiffness of the twill causes this fabric to wrinkle around any areas where your legs bend.
Design Changes:
There were no major design changes to this pattern. The only minor changes were to leave off the tie belt and belt loops. They just seemed a waste of time since I rarely tuck my shirts into my pants. The pattern for these pants matched up so nicely I'm sure it would be easy to lengthen or shorten them for different seasons. Some welt pockets in back would be a nice way to dress them up too. Here's a pic of the back view of my pants:
Closing Hints:
I'm so happy this pattern was drafted so well. It made it easy to use for following along with the Craftsy class. I must admit after all the adding and subtracting to the pattern I was feeling a little deformed but I did end up with a very nice fitting pair of pants so it was all worth it in the end.
Now I just need the weather to cool off enough to wear these. Here's hoping you're staying cool this Summer.
Ann in Calif.
Those fit you so well! And what a great idea to dye the fabric. I did that once on a sheer black top to hide the white interfacing - lesson learned there! Lol
ReplyDeleteI have a question. I just made my first Lutterloh garment yesterday, a sleeveless knit top. It got me wondering about longer garments like pants or a dress. How do you keep your tape measure perfectly straight on longer measurements? I was wondering about whether you need to tape it to a yardstick or something. Has this ever been an issue for you?
How did your knit top fit? Was it what you hoped for? Many Lutterloh pattern makers have wondered about the need to keep a long straight line. They have devised all kinds of ways to do it. Having been a pattern maker long before I found Lutterloh I have different thoughts. I find I get straight lines just fine with my tape just pulled out. With pants,and skirts you are just marking to the side, rarely do you go a very long distance with the tape measure. You can tidy up your pattern with a yard stick after if it concerns you. It is surprising how much tolerance there is in pattern making. What is important is that you have your waist and bust in the correct place. You may have to do some adjusting for these issues. You also have to plan your length's, how long do you need your pants, your skirts, your tops? These are the questions to ask when you start on longer garments. Enjoy your sewing!
DeleteThanks Fonnell for the quick response. I am happy with it but it did fit snugger than the pattern pic. I posted about ut on mu blog this morning with a pic; http://jacqui583.blogspot.ca/2017/08/lutterloh-incomplete-post.html?m=1
ReplyDeleteI wonder did you add your seam allowances? commercial patterns have a 5/8's seam allowance, you should add more if you aren't sure how a pattern will fit (1")
DeleteI only use 1/2 seam allowances and I paper fit everything, if the paper is a little snug add to the pattern before you even cut out your fashion fabric.
Yes I did add a 5/8" seam allowance and used my 5/8" seam guide when sewing to ensure accuracy. I used my high bust for everything above the halfway point of the armholes (haha autocorrect changed that to wormholes) and my full bust for the rest from waist up. Hip measurement below the waist. I did pull my tape quite snug while taking my measurements and rounded down from odd numbers so next time I will adjust the other way. I think Big 4 patterns may add more ease. I knew it would be a snugger fit from measuring the pattern once drawn out - it was size-for-size at the waist and negative ease at the bust, pretty normal imho for a knit top - but I wanted to sew as is to see how the pattern was "out of the package" so to speak.
ReplyDeleteHi Jacqui, I'm in the mountains this week so my internet access is spotty at best. Sounds like you've done a little research before diving into the Lutterloh system. Good for you! As usual, I agree wholeheartedly with Fonnell. I do usually round up to the next hole when my measurements fall on a half number. Because the Lutterloh system is European I have noticed there seems to be less ease than the huge amount added by the American Big 4 patterns. As far as drawing out patterns with longer measurements I usually just line up the scale and hold it down with one hand while I straighten out the tape to reach the dot location with the other hand. As long as I don't pull so tight, as to cause the pin to lean, then I have had no ill effects.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ann that is helpful.
ReplyDeleteUpdate to my fitting woes - I think I figured out my sizing problem! And it is such a beginner's mistake that I am almost ashamed to admit it. I took my measurements wrong, but it is worse than that sounds. I know that I pulled the tape quite tight when taking my measurements and I rounded down to the lower even number when I landed on an odd number. So I just took my standard tape measure and remeasured. I had a difference of 12cm to what my previous measurements were. That's almost 5", folks! How could I be off by so much?! Well, now here's the embarassing part; I used the Lutterloh tape measure the first time I took my measurements and even though I KNEW that the zero wasn't at the beginning of the tape, I just automatically measured from the beginning of the tape. For the love of Maude! In my defense, I work and think in inches and know my measurements that way, so to me the metric measurement was just a number that didn't really mean anything to me.
ReplyDeleteTo take it one step further I just compared pinhole spots on the tape from the old measurements to the correct ones, measured my pattern again and did some math, and long story short the correct measurements should have given me size-for-size across the bust and 3" of ease at the waist. Looking at the pattern pic that sounds about right to me.
So now I think I will make myself a new pattern with the corrected measurements, make another top in a comparable fabric, and see if it looks more like the pattern pic.
I've put a posting below for everyone who might have your question. I hope it will help. I'll try to put some photos on the blog to help out but the video really covers it well.
DeleteThe lutterloh system is so easy. Let me show you why. When you measure the Lutterloh way you take the number you see and that is the number you use to put the pin in. Try not to think in inches or metrics. I'd like to refer everyone to this short video. http://lutterloh.com/shipping.php?osCsid=549991a0b2779c61e3a05600586b96fa
ReplyDeleteIf you look in the beginning of your pattern book no matter what year it comes from you will find that they show you to measure over the shoulder blades and around the bust. It is important to measure the bust in this way. So step one; use the Lutterloh tape measure to take your bust and hip measurement. Work from the end of the tape that is opposite to the hard plastic ruler end. My current tape starts at 2 as the metal tab is #1. Step two; take the measurement over the shoulder blade and around the bust. Do not over tighten. The number you see now becomes the number you will use for the bust on the hard plastic end of the tape. Now measure your hip over the widest area and use that number for your hip on the hard plastic end. This simple from tape measurement to the numbers on the hard plastic tape end takes all the time consuming measuring out of your pattern making. It should be fun to make patterns, and with Lutterloh it is!
Thanks Fonnell. I really should have read through the measuring instructions before diving in.
ReplyDeleteI made myself a new pattern based on my correct measurements and made a second attempt at the knit top. I had to lengthen it at the waist as I have to with any pattern and raise the dart but the width measurements were bang on what I would expect looking at the pattern pic; size-for-size at the bust, 3" ease at the waist and 1" ease at the hip. I think it looks just like the pattern pic. I am a convert! I ordered two recent pattern supplements lol. There are pics here if you are interested: http://jacqui583.blogspot.ca/2017/08/lutterloh-285-66-second-try.html
Success is so wonderful! Enjoy all those lovely patterns and remember what corrections you will always make.
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