Supplement 321 - Model#84 - Summer 2021
Hi there folks, it's still hot as Hades here in California so I thought I would make one more pair of shorts to get me through the Summer. I knew when I saw this pattern that it would be one I should try.
Pattern Hints:
The pattern for these shorts is straight forward but I did find an oddity when comparing the pattern to the fashion drawing.
Above is the fashion drawing for the back next to the actual back pattern. In the fashion drawing the yoke is taller at the center and narrower at the side seams, the actual pattern is the opposite. I did find that the pattern, once enlarged, is indeed shaped like the pattern drawing not the fashion drawing. There is no way you'll get a "V" shaped yoke out of this pattern piece.
Another point to note about the pattern is that the shaped waistband is supposed to be cut on the bias. See how the grainline arrow is at a 45 degree angle to the center back? This makes the waistband easier to curve but can also leave you with a stretched out waistband without some stabilization at the seam. I used 1/4 inch twill tape in the seam where the waist joins the yoke as a precaution.
Design Changes:
This pattern is really a good basic pattern for straight leg shorts. I made just a couple of changes to suit my preferences. First I left off the belt loops because I knew I wouldn't wear a belt with these. Next was to elongate the front pocket bags. I find that the pockets on most recent Lutterloh patterns are just too shallow to be useful for me.
The photo above shows the front pocket pattern drawn according to the dots. The red line indicates where the original pattern would have ended. This pocket allows for about half of your hand to fit and ends at about the bottom of the crotch, not good if you want to actually carry anything in your pockets. I extended the depth of the pocket by almost three inches so now it ends below the crotch.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
The knit symbol on this pattern would suggest that you can
use stretch fabric for these shorts. I wanted to use up some of my 100%
cotton corduroy so I used generous seam allowances when cutting the
fabric. Since corduroy has a tendency to stretch on it's own, it turns
out I didn't need those larger seam allowances. I sewed the entire
pattern on the regular sewing line without needing any extra.
The shorts look great on you, Ann! Thanks so much for sharing!
ReplyDeletegreat catch on the drawing vs the pattern. I learned to draw for patterns and it is a skill to make sure all lines match the model. We have cooled off here and so glad to do so. We gladly gift you the heat. Smiles
ReplyDeleteLooks really good. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful job Ann !!! they look great on you!
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comments ladies. It's fun to share as long as it helps somebody out.:)
ReplyDeleteThose shorts look so good on you. Nice catch on an error on their part which shouldn't have been made.
ReplyDeleteThank you Gloria. I thought I should mention it in case someone else wanted to make the pattern and didn't want any surprises. ;)
ReplyDeleteAnn it has been too long since I've visited your blog; you have been so busy! These shorts have been on my "one day" list so I'm so happy to see that you've made them. I'm curious if you find the short yoke on the back affects the fit at all; they look like they fit you really well. I'm thinking that the cutting line could be moved to make a deeper yoke as per the fashion drawing if someone wanted. I've been hyper focused on quilt sewing and definitely need to get back to some fashion sewing. Thanks for the inspiration!
ReplyDeleteFonnell and I are so glad you came back to visit Jacqui. I believe you probably could change the cutting line of the yoke but it might take some trial and error. The problem I see is how it might affect the sort of "dart" at the side seam. I would be inclined to just find a pattern that better suits my vision from the start. If you have it, there's an excellent pants pattern that I made into shorts reviewed here:
Deletehttp://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2015/07/lutterloh-patterns-come-alive.html