Monday, August 28, 2023

Lutterloh Patterns FASHION FLASHBACK

 Supplement 94 - Model #316 (1964)
 
Vintage style nightgown
 
    Hi there folks. This Summer has been pretty hot in California so I find myself in need of some easy, breezy sleepwear. My go to nightgowns are usually from Eileen West but they are pretty darn expensive. I knew as long as I could find the right fabric that they could be duplicated. This is my simplified version.
 
Pattern Hints:
     This 1964 pattern draws out just as easily as any other Lutterloh pattern. I was able to use my modern Lutterloh scale because all the numbers end in either a whole number or a .5 decimal. Some of the older patterns require a vintage scale due to the numbers ending in a decimal other than a half centimeter.
 
    Because I knew I would use a wide eyelet trim for the strap I did need to combine the front and back strap into one pattern piece. The nightgown I was copying had a fairly long strap so I did add one inch between the pattern pieces. The pictures below demonstrate how the pattern pieces look once combined.
    The back yoke includes the back strap so the red line shows where it was cut to create a rectangular back yoke and separate back strap pattern piece. This way I could use the eyelet edge on both the yoke pieces and the inside edge of the straps. I did need to fiddle a little to get a straight line on the inside of the strap piece and the proper curve for the outside edge but the exercise was well worth it. Below is a photo of the finished strap with bias trim on the outside edge.
Design Changes:  
   Other than the obvious sleeveless alteration I did make a few more changes. I only had two yards of fabric so had to shorten my nightgown by almost four inches. Mine also has a one piece front instead of a seam down the center. My front yoke has a center seam instead of being cut on the fold. This allowed me to cut the yoke with the lace edge at the top. Both the front and back yoke seemed a little wide to me so I removed about 3/8 of an inch from the pattern pieces at center front and back.
 
Fabric Used/Suggested:
    Just like the inspiration Eileen West gown, I used a cotton lawn fabric and cotton eyelet lace trim. Cotton lawn makes for a cool wearing nightgown but batiste or perhaps voile or broadcloth might work too as long as the fabric wasn't too crisp. I wish cotton quilting fabric would work for this because of the variety in prints but it usually stands away from the body too much and ends up looking like a tent. A thin knit might work too if it weren't too sheer. It's entirely up to the wearer I suppose if you don't mind a see through nightgown.
 
Closing Hints:
    If you're a fan of Eileen West nightgowns this pattern is a perfect starting point. It would be easy enough to add the typical button placket in the front but I never use it so this simplified version is even easier. Now that I have the yoke and straps worked out for the eyelet trim I will definitely be making at least one more like this. All I need now is the right fabric in a pretty print. 
 
Hopefully you're managing to stay cool this Summer. I'm certainly looking forward to cooler weather. Until next time then.......
 
Happy sewing everyone,
Ann in Calif.