Wednesday, March 29, 2023

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 328 - Model #103
Off Center V neck knit dress
 
   Hello my fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. It seemed like warmer weather was right around the corner but perhaps I was mistaken. This dress may be a little premature but when I saw the pattern I knew exactly which fabric I could use from the stash.
 
Pattern Hints:
   Because of the off center V neckline on this pattern, you need to draw out the entire front pattern piece rather than just half of a pattern cut on a fold. The center front is indicated on the pattern so it's easy to fold on this line to be sure the two side seams match. I only needed to do a little adjusting to get them the same. Unlike other recent patterns, this neckline seems a little higher than the fashion drawing indicates. After enlarging the pattern to the longer length version I found I needed to cut the pattern in between the two suggested lengths to suit my preference.

Design Changes:
    In addition to lengthening this pattern I also opted to leave off the external casings for the sleeve ties and belt. I find dangling sleeve ties sort of annoying and the waistline belt casing just felt like it would add bulk where I didn't need it. This dress certainly needed some definition at the waist though. The photo below shows how truly roomy it is. I may add elastic at the waist just so a belt is not absolutely necessary. 
   The pattern indicates that the smaller front shoulder piece should be cut on the straight of grain like the rest of the front. However, I cut three different shoulder fronts, one in solid black, just to test out the different looks. I decided on the piece cut on the cross grain just for a little pizazz. This dress is a fairly simple shape so I thought it needed a contrast. As much as I like pockets in a dress I decided to skip those too. This fabric just didn't feel like it would support them without distorting the side seams.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
   This pattern is designed for knits but a stretch woven might work if it had the right drape to it. My striped fabric is a poly/rayon knit with stretch in both directions. I don't know if it's the lightweight nature or the stretchiness of this fabric but it curled at the edges like crazy! This was one of the reasons I decided to skip the casings at the waist and sleeves. I was so tired of wrestling with matching the seams that I just wanted to be done with it. I do love the final result though and may even make another one once I find the right weight knit to use.
 
 Closing Hints:
   Even after all the trouble I had with the fabric I would still like to try this dress again. The neckline is fun and it's a pretty easy project once you get done with the facing. I might even try a ribbing finish at the neck for a more sporty look. The front shoulder piece lends itself to color blocking and even the belt and sleeve casings could be in a contrast fabric. Overall, I'm calling this pattern a keeper for a nice, pullover, knit dress.
 
I have my fingers crossed for some warmer weather ahead so I can wear this dress. Until then...
 
Happy sewing everyone,
Ann in Calif.