Monday, February 2, 2026

Start with a great base

Tunic length T with added fullness at the hem
 
    Hello again folks, I hope you're staying warm. I thought I'd share one of my favorite holiday looks from last year. You may recall Fonnell's post from a while back 
I used my favorite T shirt pattern to create a swingy tunic to wear over slightly sparkly leggings for casual holiday festivities. In this post I will outline my steps for you. The leggings are from a pattern I reviewed here.
 
The Pattern:
    I have reviewed this T-shirt pattern before here. The important part of this process is to start with a T-shirt pattern that you have carefully fitted to your liking. Your favorite pattern may have a bust dart or maybe not. The alterations to add fullness to this pattern are all done below the waist so your dart will not be affected. Once you have worked out all your necessary fit alterations then the fun can begin!
 
The Alterations:
    The lines I drew in red, where you will slash and spread the pattern, all occur from the waist down so the fit on top is mostly unaffected. 
Below is a photo of a scaled down back pattern piece against the actual finished garment.                                                          
Feel free to practice this on paper in a smaller scale just to get the hang of it. Make sure to leave the paper attached at the side and back seams to make it easier to spread the pattern to add paper behind it. The white line drawn in the photo is where I created a slightly longer, curved back hem to make sure to cover my behind.
The front pattern piece is done similarly but with one crucial difference. Because I still wanted to cut the front in one piece, on the fold of the fabric, I only cut the center and side spread lines to add fullness to the sides but not the center of my front piece. Again the white line drawn in represents the additional curve I added to make this more of a tunic.
    Once you're satisfied with the fullness and length you've added, the seams will need to be trued to be sure the length and shape of the side seams match. The back will have to have a center back seam now to accommodate the extra fullness in the pattern. This center back seam allows for further tweaking of the fit in case you'd like your top more or less fitted through the waist.
You can see where most of the added fullness falls to the back in soft, vertical folds. This top is fairly fitted from the shoulders to the waist and the drama falls below. 
 
The Fabric:
    This particular top is made up in what I would call a slinky fabric. It is a medium weight knit with a jacquard like animal stripe. The weight and drape of this fabric turned out to be a perfect fit for this holiday tunic. I have made this same top in a rayon knit but find it clings a little to my leggings. I like the feel and weight of the slinky knit better. Most medium weight knits should work for this as long as they're not too clingy or too stiff. 
 
Conclusion:
    Don't be surprised if you need a couple of test garments to get the fullness just right. I sure did. The challenge is to get the right fabric to match the fullness added to the pattern. Now that this pattern has been altered for this shape I will absolutely save it for the next time just the right fabric comes along. 😉
 
I hope you find yourself a pattern that fits to a T. It's worth it to have one on hand that can be a base for any style that suits your fancy. 
Until next time then, 
 
Happy sewing everyone from,
Ann in Calif.     

Thursday, January 8, 2026

One Last Nursing Top Hack

 Supplement 271 - Model#70 - 2008
Hidden 2 way zipper under a flap at the bustline
 
    Hi folks, this is the last nursing top, I promise. The new mother is off to a good start and I've discovered that sewing for babies is pretty fun, too. 
 
The Pattern: 
    Once again I used this close fitting T-shirt pattern as the base for this nursing top. The photo below demonstrates approximately where I cut the pattern apart to insert the zipper.
  
My cutting line may appear to be just below the bust point, but my stretchy fabric made the seam end almost under the bust. The test garment revealed quite a bit of vertical stretch in this fabric. Fabrics with differing amounts of stretch may need the cutting line on the pattern adjusted. Once cut apart both pieces will need seam allowance. This is the seam where the zipper sews in. To get the overlap that nicely covers the zipper, I added 2 full inches to the pattern just half an inch above the original cut. After adding the 2 inches to the pattern I marked the fold line at 1 inch and folded the paper to true the pattern with the fold of the fabric.
 
The Alteration:
    The dual slider zipper installed in the seam allows for an opening as large as you need to nurse a baby comfortably. The 21 inch zipper that I used ended at each side seam so the ends are well anchored. To avoid any stretching out at the zipper seam I did use tricot interfacing on the whole overlap and the adjoining zipper seam. The size of the overlap is really something that can be customized to suit your fabric and the wearer. 
 
The Fabric:
    As I mentioned, my fabric is fairly stretchy, both horizontally and vertically. If you want to use a close fitting pattern like this one from 2008 then I would suggest a knit with stretch in all directions. Your favorite T-shirt pattern may allow for a greater range of knits.
 
Conclusion:
    Well, I'm pretty sure I have established that this is my current favorite for a close fitting, basic, T-shirt. It is easily fitted to your figure and infinitely adaptable once properly fitted. 
 
Alright then, I'll close with a wish for a happy new year for everyone! Thanks for visiting the blog.
 
Ann in Calif.