Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 325 - Model #26 

Loose fitting elastic waist pants

 

    Hello there, Lutterloh enthusiasts. Now that the weather is finally cooling I thought I would wear pants to an upcoming birthday party for a neighbor. This pattern seemed like a good start for something that could be dressed up a little. The review for the top I'm wearing can be found here. 

Pattern Hints:

    Usually I steer clear of the full figure pants patterns because the crotch length is so long for me. This time I thought I might use this to my advantage. Instead of using a number on the Lutterloh scale that was lower than my actual measurement I just enlarged this pattern to my actual body measurement. From past experience I knew this would give me a pattern that was larger than I needed. Because of the semi sheer fabric I was using I wanted pants that would flow around my figure with no clinging. This strategy seemed to work for this pattern anyway. I ended up with a pattern with very loose fitting legs but extra length at the top that needed to be chopped off.

    Here are the pattern pieces for model #26. It's a fairly basic straight leg pant with front pockets. All the length that I subtracted from the top I ended up adding to the length of the legs but this is a normal alteration for me anyway. Fortunately the slit for the pockets was deep enough that I can still fit my hand.

 

Design Changes:

    It doesn't feel like making the pattern extra large was a design change although it did result in a looser fitting pant. The only real design change I made was to line these pants with another layer of the same crepe fabric. To do this I did need to combine the pocket pattern with the front leg pattern. It was easy enough to lay one pattern piece over the other to draw a plain front leg piece with no pocket. My elastic waistband is also 1.5" wide instead of the suggested 6cm folded in half.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:   

    To make these pants dressier I used a polyester crepe fabric that was just a little sheer. I'm sure they would work just as well in many other woven fabrics. For a more casual look, like in the fashion drawing, I might use linen or even a heavy gauze fabric. Some dressier fabrics like velvet or satin could work too.

 

Closing Hints:   

     This pattern will prove to be versatile in the future for both casual and dressy pants, I'm sure. You can hardly go wrong with a loose straight leg pant with pockets. 

 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone!

 

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns FASHION FLASHBACK

 Supplement 94 - Model #316 (1964)

 

Vintage style nightgown

 

    Hi there folks. This Summer has been pretty hot in California so I find myself in need of some easy, breezy sleepwear. My go to nightgowns are usually from Eileen West but they are pretty darn expensive. I knew as long as I could find the right fabric that they could be duplicated. This is my simplified version.

 

Pattern Hints:

     This 1964 pattern draws out just as easily as any other Lutterloh pattern. I was able to use my modern Lutterloh scale because all the numbers end in either a whole number or a .5 decimal. Some of the older patterns require a vintage scale due to the numbers ending in a decimal other than a half centimeter.

 

    Because I knew I would use a wide eyelet trim for the strap I did need to combine the front and back strap into one pattern piece. The nightgown I was copying had a fairly long strap so I did add one inch between the pattern pieces. The pictures below demonstrate how the pattern pieces look once combined.

    The back yoke includes the back strap so the red line shows where it was cut to create a rectangular back yoke and separate back strap pattern piece. This way I could use the eyelet edge on both the yoke pieces and the inside edge of the straps. I did need to fiddle a little to get a straight line on the inside of the strap piece and the proper curve for the outside edge but the exercise was well worth it. Below is a photo of the finished strap with bias trim on the outside edge.

Design Changes:  

   Other than the obvious sleeveless alteration I did make a few more changes. I only had two yards of fabric so had to shorten my nightgown by almost four inches. Mine also has a one piece front instead of a seam down the center. My front yoke has a center seam instead of being cut on the fold. This allowed me to cut the yoke with the lace edge at the top. Both the front and back yoke seemed a little wide to me so I removed about 3/8 of an inch from the pattern pieces at center front and back.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

    Just like the inspiration Eileen West gown, I used a cotton lawn fabric and cotton eyelet lace trim. Cotton lawn makes for a cool wearing nightgown but batiste or perhaps voile or broadcloth might work too as long as the fabric wasn't too crisp. I wish cotton quilting fabric would work for this because of the variety in prints but it usually stands away from the body too much and ends up looking like a tent. A thin knit might work too if it weren't too sheer. It's entirely up to the wearer I suppose if you don't mind a see through nightgown.

 

Closing Hints:

    If you're a fan of Eileen West nightgowns this pattern is a perfect starting point. It would be easy enough to add the typical button placket in the front but I never use it so this simplified version is even easier. Now that I have the yoke and straps worked out for the eyelet trim I will definitely be making at least one more like this. All I need now is the right fabric in a pretty print. 

 

Hopefully you're managing to stay cool this Summer. I'm certainly looking forward to cooler weather. Until next time then.......

 

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 329 - Model #54 

Romper for woven fabrics

 

   Yay! Summer is here! This romper just looked like the perfect Summer outfit for a backyard BBQ. It even has pockets! There is another view, #53, for this pattern but I liked the button front for ease of use. I will talk more about model #53 a little later in the post.

 

Pattern Hints:

    The pattern for this romper is pretty straight forward and I didn't encounter any problems with this view. I made all my usual alterations and ended up with a pattern that went together like a breeze. The other view, #53, is another story however. Below is a pic of the fashion drawing for model #53 with the pattern pieces beside it. I have only erased the numbers for enlarging the pattern but no other symbols or marks.

    If you look closely you'll see that the front bodice of view #53 is cut on the fold and the back bodice indicates a keyhole opening of just 10cm at the center back neck. The shorts for both views have an elastic waist but no opening for a zipper or buttons. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't know how you're supposed to get into this outfit with just an opening at the neck! I believe that there should be a center back zipper for view #53 just so you can step into it. I might even extend that zipper into the shorts just a little to make it easier to get it on. If I have missed something about this pattern I would really like to know. This is probably just a typo and I'm glad to have noticed it.

 

Design Changes:

   I made only minor design changes to this pattern. My romper has four buttons instead of three and I used bias binding at the arm holes instead of facings. Lutterloh pockets always seem inadequate to me so I used a standard pocket pattern that is much deeper. Lastly, I left off the waist tie altogether since I knew I would wear a belt with this romper.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   For my romper I used a super soft rayon challis. It is a dream to wear when the weather heats up in Summer. This pattern is designed for woven fabrics but you could probably use a knit if it wasn't very stretchy. Whatever fabric you choose I would suggest something with a good drape to it. A stiffer fabric will stand away from the body and cause the sleeves to stick out too. If I were to make another romper I might try a soft chambray or perhaps a limp cotton quilting fabric. Someone very thin might even get away with a very lightweight denim or twill.

 

Closing Hints:

   Other than the glaring issue with a missing opening for this pattern it really is well drafted. It would probably be easier to put on if there was a side zipper that extended below the waist but it is not absolutely essential. That would be just one more step to add to this otherwise easy, breezy pattern. All in all this pattern seems just about perfect to me and I should get lots of wear out of my new romper.

 

I hope your Summer is shaping up to be an enjoyable one.

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif. 

Can I use a slim fit Lutterloh pattern?

 Supplement 328 - Model #111

 Slim Fit top pattern

    Hello again from California. Hey, have you tried any of the Lutterloh patterns designed for slim figures? They're designated by a dress form outline next to the fashion drawing. These patterns are typically suggested for people with a bust measurement of 90cm or less. I wanted to see if I could make them work for my curvier figure. Similar to "shrinking" the full figure patterns by using a lower number, I used a number 3 dots higher on the Lutterloh scale from my true bust and hip measurements. The good news is that I was able to make it work but the bad news is that it took quite a bit of adjusting. 

 

Modifications: 

   The very first adjustment this pattern needed was at the neckline. Although the fashion drawing shows what appears to be a scoop neck I needed to lower my pattern neckline by two inches to get the shape you see here. The next problem I noticed was that the armholes were going to be too small for me. This is not an adjustment that I usually need to make. I do however typically lengthen my patterns by one inch at the standard cross mark on the pattern. Because this top is a kimono style sleeve I was able to lengthen my pattern above the cross mark and achieve two adjustments at once.

Splitting the pattern at this point allowed me to lengthen the pattern and enlarge the armhole in one operation. This alteration wouldn't work for a set in sleeve so I was glad for this particular style.

 

    The rest of the modifications stemmed from this pattern having very little shaping at the waist. They are intended, after all, for figures that are very slim, not hour glass. I should have tried this on more as I was sewing but it was just an experiment, sooooooo...

Once the darts were sewn and the zipper was installed in the side seam I basted the last seam and realized this still fit like a sack. I took each dart in a little more but it just wasn't enough! Out of desperation I took all the slack out in the back center seam. Since my neckline was lower in the front it turns out I didn't need the button opening suggested for the back neck anyway. This top was not shaping up to be anything I wanted to repeat so I didn't bother with the front belt either. 

 

Fabric Choice:    

    Although my top is certainly comfy to wear I don't think it's what was intended for this pattern. Mine is a rayon nylon blend with some sort of smocking texture built in. If it was intended to be a knit it's definitely the least stretchy knit I have ever worked with. A better fabric choice for this top might be a lightweight shirting, batiste or challis fabric. The fabric needs some drape to it but limp fabric just contributes to it's shapelessness. 

 

Conclusion:  

    As you may have surmised, this is not one of my favorite makes for this year. I'm glad I completed the experiment but I won't be trying any more slim fit patterns anytime soon. It seems they really are designed for the truly slim figures, certainly not hourglass shapes anyway. I would say more likely for rectangle or perhaps more athletic figures. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a similar pattern in the standard range. Until then, there are just so many other patterns to consider...................

 

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif. 

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 328 - Model #103

Off Center V neck knit dress
 

   Hello my fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. It seemed like warmer weather was right around the corner but perhaps I was mistaken. This dress may be a little premature but when I saw the pattern I knew exactly which fabric I could use from the stash.

 

Pattern Hints:

   Because of the off center V neckline on this pattern, you need to draw out the entire front pattern piece rather than just half of a pattern cut on a fold. The center front is indicated on the pattern so it's easy to fold on this line to be sure the two side seams match. I only needed to do a little adjusting to get them the same. Unlike other recent patterns, this neckline seems a little higher than the fashion drawing indicates. After enlarging the pattern to the longer length version I found I needed to cut the pattern in between the two suggested lengths to suit my preference.

Design Changes:

    In addition to lengthening this pattern I also opted to leave off the external casings for the sleeve ties and belt. I find dangling sleeve ties sort of annoying and the waistline belt casing just felt like it would add bulk where I didn't need it. This dress certainly needed some definition at the waist though. The photo below shows how truly roomy it is. I may add elastic at the waist just so a belt is not absolutely necessary. 

   The pattern indicates that the smaller front shoulder piece should be cut on the straight of grain like the rest of the front. However, I cut three different shoulder fronts, one in solid black, just to test out the different looks. I decided on the piece cut on the cross grain just for a little pizazz. This dress is a fairly simple shape so I thought it needed a contrast. As much as I like pockets in a dress I decided to skip those too. This fabric just didn't feel like it would support them without distorting the side seams.

Fabric Used/Suggested:

   This pattern is designed for knits but a stretch woven might work if it had the right drape to it. My striped fabric is a poly/rayon knit with stretch in both directions. I don't know if it's the lightweight nature or the stretchiness of this fabric but it curled at the edges like crazy! This was one of the reasons I decided to skip the casings at the waist and sleeves. I was so tired of wrestling with matching the seams that I just wanted to be done with it. I do love the final result though and may even make another one once I find the right weight knit to use.

 

 Closing Hints:

   Even after all the trouble I had with the fabric I would still like to try this dress again. The neckline is fun and it's a pretty easy project once you get done with the facing. I might even try a ribbing finish at the neck for a more sporty look. The front shoulder piece lends itself to color blocking and even the belt and sleeve casings could be in a contrast fabric. Overall, I'm calling this pattern a keeper for a nice, pullover, knit dress.

 

I have my fingers crossed for some warmer weather ahead so I can wear this dress. Until then...

 

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.  

Lutterloh Fashion Flashback Frankenpattern

 

Vintage skirt meets modern bodice

   Hi there, welcome back. I wanted to highlight the versatility of the Lutterloh system with a little experiment. I made the dress shown in the center a while back but wasn't happy that it didn't have pockets. You can see that review here. I suppose I could have just put in side seam pockets but after making this dress for my son's niece I knew I wanted to try the scoop pockets for myself.

Choosing the components:  

   You may have heard that many parts of Lutterloh patterns are interchangeable. I love the skirt on this vintage pattern from 1972 but not the jumper bodice on top. BTW the vintage pattern is also available in the original 1972 supplement #126, or #307 or the newest Vintage Special Edition. On the other hand I knew the bodice of the dress from 2018 fit well and could be easily adapted to accommodate the vintage skirt pattern. The modern pattern is designed for knits and has an empire waist but my challenge was to make it work with the vintage skirt that sits at the waist.

 

Making it work:

    The vintage pattern is designed for woven fabrics but in a knit I knew it would go over my head without the need for a zipper opening. The real trick was to get the bodice long enough to make up for the extra length that I would lose at the top of the skirt. Below is a picture of one of the skirt panels and the front bodice for the 2018 pattern.

 

   Because the pattern is for an empire waist dress you can see the top of the skirt extends above the waist line. The difference between the actual waist and the top of the skirt measured 3 inches on my pattern. This means I needed to add 3 inches to my pattern between the bottom of the bodice and the waistline for the skirt. Since the 2018 pattern included a 1 inch contrast band I decided to add 1.5 inches to the band and another 1.5 inches to the bodice, both front and back. This brought my bodice down to meet the level of the vintage skirt without giving it a strange proportion in relation to the whole dress. 

 

   Not surprisingly, the pattern elements went together just like a Lutterloh pattern should. The A-line skirt was flared enough at the hips that it went over my head without a hitch and the knit waistband makes the whole dress fit closely without being tight. Since I ended up drawing a copy of my bodice pattern I also changed the neckline to a scoop instead of the original V neck. From the beginning I had confidence that this experiment would work and now I'm so glad I tried it.

 

In Conclusion:   

   I have found that the precision of the Lutterloh patterns allows for lots of experimenting like this. Since this skirt style is quickly becoming a favorite of mine I may look for more bodices, in different styles, that will work on top of this skirt. Perhaps a cross over bodice dress is in my future. I'll certainly keep my eyes peeled for more possibilities.

   If you haven't tried exchanging your Lutterloh pattern elements yet I would highly recommend it. It is definitely worth a try since Lutterloh makes it so easy. Here's hoping your Lutterloh patterns are successful whether you decide to follow them or not.

Happy Sewing Everyone,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 320 - Model #54 - 2021

     Sheath Dress for knit fabrics

    Hi there folks, here we are, sliding into another new year. It seemed a good time to sort through the fabric stash that I inherited a while back. Well, ..... this piece of fabric practically called to me as I handled it. I was blown away by how much it reminded me of the Tommy Hilfiger apparel I had just seen at the stores! The next step was to find a classic knit dress pattern to replicate the shape. Luckily, with Lutterloh patterns, you can exchange similar sleeve patterns so I knew this model #54 would suit the purpose just fine. 

 

Pattern Hints: 

    After drawing many Lutterloh patterns the process does get quite a bit faster and this pattern was no exception. Without the sleeve to draw out, it is really just two pieces, a front and a back. Your sleeve pattern, whichever you choose, is just one more piece. If you choose to use facings you'll still be using the same pattern pieces.

 

    It seems the trick to getting a really great fit on such a close fitting dress is to make sure the waist and hip curves are in the right places. Fonnell wrote a great post a while back that explains a way to help get this just right. There is a link to that post on our side bar, #7 adjusting for the curves, shoulders, hips etc.

 

Design Changes:   

     I did notice, after enlarging the pattern, that the neckline, like so many others lately, was a little too open for me. I knew I could change that at the same time that I made it a deeper scoop.                                                                         

The photo above represents the changes that I made to the front of this pattern to get the dress I am wearing in my completed photo. I lowered the neckline by an inch and a half and extended the shoulder line inward by a half inch to give me more of a scoop neckline. I also cut the pattern apart below the line for the shorter version so I could add 3 more inches to the length. When altering the back pattern to match, I only changed the shoulder and length. This was always intended to be a casual dress for me so rather than using facings I finished the neck, sleeves and even the hem with a ribbing band.

Fabric Used/Suggested:

    The model for this dress appears to be wearing a sweater dress and I'm sure this would be a terrific option for this pattern. Because it's such a classic shape, there are so many knits that would work great for this pattern. As I mentioned earlier, this particular piece of cotton knit fabric dictated the pattern for me. Unfortunately, I only had a limited amount of this fabric and just couldn't find a way to squeeze out the sleeves. I decided a coordinating yet similar fabric would have to do. I love the result of my intentionally different fabric! The ribbing seemed like the best way to pull all this together and now I have a nice, casual dress to wear once the weather warms up.

Closing Hints:

    I have been looking for a classic knit sheath dress pattern and I think I've finally found it. I made a sheath pattern some time ago by combining two patterns and that actually worked just fine. You can see that dress here. The best part about having a pattern already drafted for the right shape is the ease with which you can draw it again in any size. This one is a keeper!

 

I hope you are all finding some time for sewing or at the very least perusing your Lutterloh patterns for the future. Stay warm everyone.

 

Happy Sewing then,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Children's Special Edition 33/Model #2  

Dress/Tunic for 3 - 6  year olds

    Happy Holidays everyone! I managed to get this dress made in time for Christmas for my little friend. It's always nice to sew for someone who is truly delighted to wear it. The first version I made of this dress was, as the pattern intended, a shorter tunic length.

She'll be wearing leggings in the winter anyway. The most recent version is intended to be long enough to be a dress with or without leggings.

You may notice in the photo above that the pattern has a number of 239. That's because this pattern also appears in Supplement#279 as model 239 from 2010. 

 Pattern Hints: 

This child's pattern is easy enough to enlarge and produces a pattern that is a close representative of the fashion drawing. Once enlarged to your child's designated measurements you can expect a nice fitting pattern for a tunic length dress.

Design Changes:

This time making the pattern I actually stuck closer to the intended use by using a woven fabric and inserting a back zipper. The one major change was to add lots of extra length to the pattern. I added half an inch to the bodice at the cross point and then added another 3 and a half inches to the length of the skirt. I'm hoping it will hit closer to the top of her knee, we'll see.

Fabric Used/Suggested:   

The fabric for this dress is a lightweight cotton/poly printed denim. It's a great weight for everyday, wash and wear, play clothes but can still be dressed up if necessary. I've made up this dress in both sturdy knit and rugged woven and the style just seems to work with a huge range of fabric options. If you didn't mind ironing this would even work in some of those fun novelty cotton fabrics.

Closing Hints:  

I may have found my next favorite little girl's dress pattern. Of course the jury's still out on whether or not my little friend agrees. Hopefully I can get a photo soon and update this post with someone wearing the dress. 

Here's to a happy and prosperous new year! May we all get some quality sewing time in the near future.

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 279 - Model#239 - 2010

 

Child's Dress - age range 3 - 6 years

 

 

    Hello again, I hope your holiday season is getting off to a great start. This Lutterloh pattern is also available in the Children's Special Edition #33 from 2013. If you need more children's patterns than are available to you in your collection the special editions are always a good choice.

 

Pattern Hints:   

    Although the Lutterloh symbol for this pattern indicates a dress I would call this more of a tunic length pattern. Most children would need to wear leggings or pants under this to make it an appropriate length. This pattern was easy enough to draw out. Like many pockets of this type I did need to match up the curves on the main dress pattern and pocket lining to make sure they were the same.

 

Design Changes: 

    This pattern is actually intended for woven fabric but I knew I wanted a more user friendly style. Because I used a knit I omitted the back zipper and facings altogether. A stretchy knit ribbing allows this to stretch over the head but still lay flat afterward. Since the neck had a ribbing band I decided to add them to the sleeves too just to make it look more intentional.

    

    I was hoping to make this a stand alone dress so I added 1 ½ inches extra length in addition to the hem allowance. Now that it's done I wish I had added about 2 more inches. I feel like the fashion drawing doesn't quite match the length of the actual pattern. The pockets could be a little deeper too since the skirt is longer now.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested: 

    For this version I used a pretty purple sweatshirt fleece. It makes it easy and comfortable for everyday play-wear and it's super soft inside. Unfortunately I couldn't pick out all the backing from the embroidered top stitching so it will have to wash out over time.😒 

 

    Since this pattern indicates a center back zipper it really lends itself to so many different fabrics. I could see making this up in pretty quilting cottons, chambray, gingham or even a very lightweight denim. Of course since this is a Lutterloh pattern you could even exchange the sleeve for a longer one or perhaps a different style entirely.

 

Closing Hints:  

    This dress went together really easily. The decorative stitching was the most time consuming part. A simple top-stitch or double needle stitch would cut that time considerably. My little friend will be delighted with her birthday present and I anticipate making at least one more longer version for her Christmas present. 

 

Here's hoping you get all your holiday sewing done in time. There's only a few weeks left!

 

Happy sewing everyone,

 

Ann in Calif.

       

Lutterloh Vintage Reprints

Supplement 326 - Model # 238 & 239  

Two Lutterloh patterns originally from the 1970s

 

     Hi there fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. Isn't it nice that the Lutterloh company is reissuing some of their vintage patterns? Sometimes I already have the original pattern as is the case with these two. It turns out that these two patterns are originally from Supplement 155 from 1979. 

 

    While comparing the original patterns to the current ones I found some interesting differences. The first obvious difference is that the pattern for dress #239 was originally drafted for woven fabrics. Of course we all know that you can use a knit fabric for a pattern intended for wovens with some small adjustments. Fortunately Lutterloh has already redrafted this pattern with knit fabrics in mind. The numbers corresponding to the dots we plot out have been changed for this knit version. The shapes of the pattern pieces are essentially the same but the numbers are definitely not. 

    For the dress pattern #238 the differences are even greater. Below is a picture of the main pattern pieces viewed side by side. You can clearly see that the shapes of the pattern pieces are vastly different.  

                                                   

The original 1979 pattern is shaped at the waist rather than a straight cut from arm hole to hem. On the current version the waist darts are replaced by an inverted pleat below a yoke piece in the back. The shoulder darts are completely omitted. To me it looks like the overlap in front is slightly smaller too but I would have to draw this out to confirm. It's not likely I'll draw this pattern again since I've already got the original. I did find the differences noteworthy and I guess I just wondered if anyone else had noticed.

 

    If anyone else makes this modern version of model#238 I'd sure like to see it. What woven fabrics would lend themselves to this pattern? I have to say I think I'll pass on this one. There are SO many other dress patterns, vintage and current, that call to me from the pages of my Lutterloh books. 

 

    Here's hoping you find just the right pattern in your Lutterloh collection to make your sewing rewarding! Bye for now.

 

Ann in Calif.