Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 320 - Model #74 - Spring 2021

Full Figure Jumpsuit for knit fabric

 

     Hi there, before the weather heats up here in California I thought I would sew up this knit jumpsuit. This is a very straightforward pattern with lots of opportunity for dressing up or down. The pattern page includes pieces for long sleeves and full length pants but the shorter version seemed more appropriate for my climate.

      Even though this is a full figure pattern I was able to make it work for me by moving the pin in the scale down by 4 dots thus creating a smaller pattern. So, instead of drawing out the pattern with my usual Lutterloh measurement of 102 I counted down 4 dots and put the pin in at 94. My bust and hip measurement are the same but if yours are different you would just move the pin down for each corresponding measurement. If you are more of an average size I would suggest reading the post titled, "Using full figure patterns for smaller sizes",before trying a full figure pattern from Lutterloh.

Pattern Hints: 

     I have had trouble in the past with the full figure pants patterns. They have a considerably longer crotch length than the regular size patterns so be prepared to make a mock up or at the very least paper fit your pattern before cutting into your good fabric. With the regular size patterns I usually need to add a little to the crotch length but for the full figure ones I always need to cut at least a couple of inches off the top of the pants patterns. 

Fabric Used/Suggested: 

     This jumpsuit is suggested to be made in a knit fabric and I would agree wholeheartedly. As much as I would like to make this up in a stretch woven I would advise against it. Mine is made up in a medium weight black, cotton/poly interlock with stretch only on the cross grain. If I make it again I will use a knit with stretch in both directions. It would be so much easier to put on if the fabric had some lengthwise stretch. 

 

     I did omit the narrow neck facings and opted for clear elastic sewn to the entire neck edge and then folded over and cover-stitched down. I'm so glad I did it this way because the neck edge stretches more than with a facing making it easier to put on but still avoiding any gaping in the front.

 

Design Changes:

     The only real design change I made was to change the bodice crossover to right side on top of left. I've noticed that the Lutterloh patterns show bodices with either configuration so feel free to cross the front bodice to your preference. I did make a rolled edge hem at the bottom of the legs giving them a lettuce edge effect. To be honest this was more out of necessity than an actual design decision. I had lengthened the legs of my pattern by 2 inches as I always do but since I also needed to cut 2 inches off the top of the pants I should have checked the length again before cutting the fabric. Good thing this was just a mock up 😒. I have since made a note on my pattern to add another inch plus hem allowance for next time. I will just add the extra length to the bottom since these are wide leg pants that are nearly the same width from thigh to hem.

 

Closing Hints:

     Now that this jumpsuit is finished I'm glad I took the time to make a muslin of it. I have plenty of knit fabric in lovely prints that I'd like to try for this pattern. For now I'll dress up this plain black one with different belts, shoes and jewelry just for some variety. 

Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 304 - Model #23&24 - Spring 2017

Knit Dresses - Full Figure

Hello sewing friends. I've been sewing up some short dresses in preparation for Spring in California. Around Christmas time I ran across a website for some nice knit dresses called Karina dresses (no affiliation) that I felt I just had to replicate. One of the features of these dresses is that they almost all have pockets. Since I like to wear short dresses over leggings I need to build pockets into the dresses.

You may notice that the pattern I used is for the Full Figure size range. My measurements don't actually reach the Full Figure range but by moving the pin in the scale down by 4 dots I can still draw out a pattern that works just great. If you'd like further information on using the Full Figure patterns for an average sized body then check out the link near the bottom of the right side bar titled "Using full figure patterns for smaller sizes"

Pattern Hints:

I did find one omission in this pattern that is worth mentioning. Normally Lutterloh patterns have a mark to denote center front with a "VM" even on a surplice bodice. You can see in the photo below that this pattern is missing that marking.  

This isn't a deal breaker but you will need to mark the center front on your pattern when you're paper fitting it though. You can see that the bottom of the front bodice is drawn in a strange jagged configuration but just trust the system and you will find that, once the darts are sewn, you end up with a nice smooth piece all ready to attach to the skirt.

 

I did also need to lengthen the bodice, front and back, by half an inch to get the waist seam to fall where it appears on the fashion drawing. This was in addition to the length I always add to my bodices.

 

Fabric Used/Suggested:

 

Both of my dresses are made up in knit fabrics. The sleeveless version is a very stretchy rayon/spandex knit and the one with sleeves is a ponte. They both worked fine although I do like the stretchier knit better. I didn't put a zipper in either one but I'm sure you would need a zipper if using stretch woven. For the pocket bags I used swimsuit lining so the pockets wouldn't cling to the dress or my leggings.

 

Design Changes:

 

The pattern photo above shows that a full front facing is suggested. Since my dresses are intended to be casual I opted for skipping the facings altogether and instead used rib knit bands. I also shortened the skirt of these dresses by 4 inches for more of a tunic length. I did draw the pattern at full length in case I'd like a knee length dress later. It was easy enough to fold out the 4 inches so I could still use the nicely shaped hem already drawn at the bottom.   

Closing Hints:

 

This pattern is definitely a keeper for me! I did find the darts in front to be a little fiddly but still worth the effort. If you do make the full front lining I would suggest a thin lining fabric since all those darts could make the front pieces bulky. My inspiration for these were the Karina dresses and I feel like these are very close and at a fraction of the price too! I have another dress pattern picked out with a slight cowl neckline. I'll likely make up a top first just to judge the drape of the neckline. Along with this dress from an earlier review I think I'm well on my way to a wardrobe of Spring dresses.

Here in California, Spring looks like it's nearly upon us. If we could just get some decent rain .......😟 Bye for now

Ann in Calif.

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 318 - Model #256 - Autumn 2020

3/4 Circle Skirt

Hello fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts, I know it's been quite a while since I've posted a new review. Like most sewists I've been making masks and trying to be useful but everyone needs a break now and again. A quick skirt in a cheerful print is always a nice pick-me-up though.

Pattern Hints: 

I'm not certain if this pattern is actually 3/4 of a circle. It's definitely not a full circle but it's also more than a half circle. My photo was taken while I was spinning so you could see the fullness. 

 On the pattern the hem is one swooping curve from the center front/back to the side seam so you'll want to be careful while connecting those dots. The straight waistband is just a suggested length so you'll need to adjust it according to your actual waist measurement. I found that the suggested width for the waistband didn't turn out quite as wide as the fashion drawing appears but that's fine with me. My wide belt covers most of it anyway.

Fabric Used/Suggested:

My skirt is made up in a linen look blend that has great movement but is still lightweight. The blend is nearly 50% Lyocel with linen, rayon and cotton in the fabric content. It washes and irons nicely for a skirt that can be dressed up or down depending on the top and accessories. The large checks can't match up perfectly on the side seams but they do form interesting diamonds on the sides so I can overlook it.

This skirt would probably work fine in a stable knit too as long as you interfaced the zipper openings sufficiently. I considered making it in a buffalo plaid flannel for winter but I haven't started it yet and Spring seems right around the corner.

Design Changes: 

Other than adjusting the waistband for my actual measurement the only design change was to add POCKETS. I used a pocket piece from another pattern that had straight side seams. My pockets are a teensy bit low because I wanted them to start just below the side zipper. Low pockets are better than no pockets IMHO. Side seam pockets are so easy to add I just couldn't see making this skirt without them.

Closing Hints:

If you love a full skirt this is a pattern for you! The full, sweeping hem draws out beautifully and the waistband is easily adjusted to any length or width. I'll keep this pattern around for any time I need a quick sew for a fresh look.

Thanks to Frank Lutterloh my patterns are all up to date so I'll do my best to post reviews more regularly. Here's hoping you're all safe and well.

Happy Sewing Everyone,

Ann in Calif. 

You can't beat a great Sewing Expo and our history connects!

Puyallup Sewing Expo happens!

I help my friend Annette Millard as she

 teaches classes at the Puyallup sewing Expo 

Each Spring we spend 4 to 5 days in sewing heaven.

This year was made extra special!!

Ann helps me run this Lutterloh blog.  

We have never met!! 

I started this blog after finding a box of 1950's Lutterloh

pattern books and making some fashions only to find

little if any information online to help me.  

Ann joined me in 2009, She has added so much 

to my blog, when I was busy with my kids weddings, 

and grand babies being born, Ann was writing posts!

We met for the first time on Wed.  

How amazing!

We like so many of the same fabrics and when

we had a moment we talked and talked.

She lives two states away from me and

she had to fly to come to the Sewing Expo.

  

We are at an event where Kenneth D. King

 will speak to us. He is a designer from New York

and it was breath taking!  If you aren't sure

Who Kenneth is his work made the hats 

Elton John was famous for.  

One little note, I'm sorry I didn't get your name,

however I met a follow Lutterloh pattern lover.

I was standing in line for one of the many classes

at Sewing Expo and there was another person

passionate for this wonderful pattern making system.

Hopefully she will see this and share something about her experience with the patterns.  

Summer top Guest posting

Since I had some time to spare I took up my favorite hobby of sewing and this time I made something for myself.

It is a 3-in-1 asymmetrical spring or autumn top

Since we have longer spring and autumn days I wanted to have a top applicable for the 2 seasons hence this idea of an asymmetrical top made from 3 patterns. 

I used 2 technical skills for this pattern :

- 1 pattern made from 3 different patterns ;

- 2 different fabrics.

I drafted pattern N° 91 (MMXIV) to form the upper part of the top (collar and yoke) using a plain cotton fabric for the collar and a printed cotton fabric for the yoke. The middle part of the top (body and sleeves) were drafted from pattern N° 136 (MMXIII) and made from a printed cotton knit fabric. The bottom part of the top (skirt) was drafted from pattern N° 232 (MMXIV). But I used only the bottom half of the skirt, making it from the same fabric as the yoke and cuffs.

The 3 different parts were stitched separately and then all assembled together. First I made the collar and the yoke. Then I made the body with the sleeves and the cuffs. At this stage my mannequin came handy to attach the yoke first to the body  and finally I attached the skirt to the body.

Important tools used : Converted cutting table, sewing mannequin, serger and sewing machine. I’m getting used to my serger as it gives a very good finish and very motivating to do quicker work.

Difficulties : After drafting pattern N° 91 I tried to fit it on my mannequin but the back and the front neck lines didn’t correspond so I drew new necklines to meet at the shoulder line and drew a new neck line adjusting it to the top part of pattern N° 136. The neckline of N° 136 was made a little deeper to show the yoke and collar.

I took great pleasure in realizing this top. Though it was difficult and time consuming I was able to get through, mainly because of my sewing mannequin. Now I have 3 patterns drafted to use, as and when I choose, to make a full length top or a full length dress or a full length skirt.

I sincerely hope and wish we all find time to use our skills.

Yours sincerely,

Bernice

Thank you for sharing your summer top!  Bernice is an adventurous Lutterloh pattern maker. 

A Lutterloh Frankenpattern

Using pattern 254 from Supp. 282, pattern 202 from Supp. 292 &
pattern 229 from Supp. 287 

Hello Folks,

I know that it's been ages since I posted any new sewing. I have been working more than I ever intended to since being employed again. I've actually been wearing this dress for weeks already but have been trying to find the time to chronicle it.

The pattern for this dress was really born out of necessity. I looked through all my Lutterloh patterns, more than once, but I could not find a pattern for a basic T-shirt type dress with no bust darts. I know, I could just rotate the bust darts as Fonnell explains here. However, why not use some patterns that I already have drawn and combine them to create my simple pattern? With this style of dress once you have the pattern and fit worked out it's so easy to use it again and again. 

Here are the patterns that I combined to get my one simple T-shirt dress pattern. I have reviewed each of these patterns separately in the past. Here are the links to those reviews:
http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2016/03/lutterloh-patterns-come-alive.html
http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2015/09/supplement-292-model-202-spring-2014.html
http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2015/03/lutterloh-patterns-come-alive.html 

Combining the Patterns:

Now this may sound like more trouble than it's worth but bear with me and you'll see it's not that complicated. The only real challenge was to combine the top of the shirt with the skirt of the dress pattern. You'll see in my photos below that it's not really a challenge after all. 

Copying the skirt:

I first laid out the two patterns with the dress pattern on top. Since they are similar shapes and both drawn to the same size you can see that there isn't a great deal of difference until you get to the neckline. With the center back lined up and the waist line matching on the two patterns there's just a slight flare at the bottom of the shirt pattern that needs to be folded in. Of course when I drew the pattern these pieces were on top of a new piece of paper but the dark background gives a better contrast. I folded in the extra shirt pattern and started copying the skirt but only up to the waistline.

Copying the shirt:

Once I got the whole skirt drawn to the waist I then folded the dress pattern at the waistline and anchored it with a huge pattern weight. I needed to be sure the center backs stayed aligned while I copied the shirt on top. I had already used this same bodice and sleeve pattern together so I knew there would be no issue there. I repeated this same procedure for the front pattern pieces, blended in the waistline areas, and PRESTO I had front and back pattern pieces for a dartless T-shirt dress!

The Conclusion:

The original dress pattern has darts suggested, both front and back, but I knew from my experience with the first dress that with the right fabric I may not need the darts. Sure enough, the stretchy, heavier weight knit I used, much like the original dress, did not need the darts. I do think a lighter, clingier knit would still need darts but I'll cross that road when I sew another version of this dress. Now that I have this worked out I'm sure this will become a staple pattern for me and with the pattern drawn to my measurements it will fit better than any commercial pattern out of the envelope. 

See, that wasn't that difficult. I'm sure there are many more applications for combining your Lutterloh patterns if really necessary. That is one of the beautiful features of this pattern system. Oh, and if anyone comes across a Lutterloh T-shirt dress pattern without darts, I'd really like to know. 

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.        

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 310 - Model #7 - Autumn 2018

Knit Pull on Pants

As the weather cools I find myself in need of more exercise wear. Since I like to take my music with me this requires that my clothing have some sort of pocket. These pants certainly fit the bill but I'm not sure I like them as well as my last pair.

The fit is fine, I think I just prefer my pants with pockets that don't fit so close. 

Pattern Hints:    

There was nothing unusual about the enlarging of this pattern. As long as your measurements are accurate you should come out with an easy to sew pants pattern. Just be sure to measure the length before cutting your fabric so you won't have any surprises in the end.

Fabric Used/Suggested:  

This pattern suggests a knit fabric and I really don't think you could get away with such a close fit in a woven fabric. My knit is a cotton/poly/spandex blend and of medium weight. The spandex content is 4% and I would definitely suggest at least this much to avoid bagging out at the knees and seat area.  

Design Changes: 
I did make just a couple of minor design changes. Since these were intended to be casual, exercise wear I did not sew the top-stitching for the crease down the front legs. I also omitted the zipper in the pockets because I find the zipper teeth to be uncomfortable when my hand is in my pocket. These pockets are also not quite deep enough for my phone to fit inside completely so the zipper might scratch the screen. 

Closing Hints:  
For this style of pant this is certainly an excellent pattern. I made my usual adjustments for length and fit just like any Lutterloh pattern and ended up with a nice pair of very casual pants. I may make another pair with deeper pockets and include the zippers for safety when biking. 
My next project is already underway. I cant seem to put away the last pattern for this dress.  
I've cut out another short version in this fabric. 

The contrast bands will probably be a black and white stripe but they're not cut yet so there's still time to change my mind  ; ).

So, that's my plan for my next project, what's yours?

Ann in Calif.

Lets go beach combing!!

I started this pair of Capri pants for the hot season

This is a 2001 Lutterloh Pattern

The pattern was as follows:

Zipper in the back

side trouser pockets

narrow leg

front and back darts

The Lutterloh pattern needed some work.  

Pants in any pattern can be tricky.  I redrew the pattern twice

and my recommend for people shaped as I am,

Don't
 keep going up to larger and larger sizes.  

INSTEAD

Do a tummy adjustment and or

a hindy adjustment. 

It made all the difference in fitting a pair of pants.

I made a tummy adjustment, also moved the hip curve to

just 4 inches down from my waist where I get wider,
then go straight legged.

I made a crotch curve adjustment and was very glad I did.

The Capri legs were much too long!  I took 14 inches off

of it.  So be sure you know your pant length, adjust your pattern in
a straight area of the leg and you may find
you need less fabric than you think.
If you are tall well maybe more fabric! 

Here are the pants.

What would I change?
They flare a little too much I'd narrow the bottom
They fit good in the back because
I added elastic to the back waist band.
it was just too loose.
 I think a curved band instead of a straight waist
band would be in order.  Perhaps more darts and smaller darts in the back too.

I think I would shorten them more.
They are okay at the high ankle, I was making
them to match the pattern drawing.

Let's hope there is enough summer left to enjoy them.
Smoke is too heavy to go outdoors much right now

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 309 - Model #188 - Summer 2018

Knit Dress with Contrast Bands (plus updated shorter version)

I recently inherited a bunch of fabric from a dear neighbor and as soon as I saw this fabric I knew exactly which pattern to use. This turned out to be a very comfortable pullover type dress with enough style to dress it up for evenings too. 

Pattern Hints:  

There are a few pattern pieces to draw for this dress but in my opinion it is well worth the time. 
There is one error on this pattern. The arrow in the photo below points to where there is a number missing. There are ten dots to draw for the back piece but only nine numbers. I just drew a line perpendicular to the center back at the same level as the dot on the opposite side.

Fabric Used/Suggested:  

My fabric is a medium weight knit interlock with fine ribbing for the contrast bands. I'm sure many knits would lend themselves well to this pattern. I'm thinking of a sweater knit with long sleeves for a Fall into Winter version. You might even get away with a very stretchy woven as long as you install the side zipper. For the contrast bands I would suggest a fabric with a good amount of stretch and excellent recovery so the waist band can hold the weight of the full skirt without distortion.

Design Changes:  

The only design change I made to this pattern was to leave off the side zipper. My fabric was plenty stretchy enough to slip it over my head. I do have a few design changes planned for future iterations of this dress though. I can see this becoming a staple pattern for me by switching out different sleeves and skirt shapes.

Closing Hints:  

The shape of the skirt and the bodice of this dress are so appealing to me that I already have plans to make it into a short dress to wear with leggings and even a top to dress up some jeans. With the ability to exchange skirt and sleeve pieces this pattern becomes endlessly versatile. 

Maybe my next version should be a darker one so I can wear it to work at the chocolate 

shop. 😉

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.

     

a quick sew dress

I love this fabric!

It needed a simple line pattern.

Something that would show off the lovely blocks of color.

This is the pattern I choose.

What did I change:

I didn't do any contract fabrics. and left the belt off.  It would just 

be hidden with this strong patterned fabric. I didn't want a pocket

to make the fabric pop out at my hip. 

I loved this fabric so much I bought a vintage bag and shoes long ago

They have cried out to be used.  So glad this dress made up quickly.

The fabric has lots of gold lines on it very pretty.

There is a zipper in the back and a side slit.  

Because I left the belt off I made the vertical darts deeper

 and it helped pull in the fit.

I loved the shape of this dress.  

It wasn't straight and leaves some nice movement wrinkles.

The good kind.

I did add a full facing, it connected the arm facings  and the neck.  It's just 

wide enough to hold everything down nice and flat. This is an update for the older

patterns I would always do! 

Now to work on my flabby arms.  Hand me my 3 pound weights!  

I considered the over jacket but what fabric would ever do this fabric justice?

That beautiful necklace was a gift from my daughter.  She bought it in Haiti when she 

was working the earthquake. 

 I love it.