Supplement 292 - Model #202 - Spring 2014
Knit Sheath Dress
Next week I'll be on vacation in Mexico and figured I would need some dresses that were easy to wear as well as easy to pack. This Lutterloh dress certainly fits the bill. The bust darts appear as tucks in the shoulders and there are long shaping darts on both front and back.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
I love the shoulder darts on this dress and found with the fabric that I used I didn't even need the long shaping darts in front or back. With a thinner knit or one with more drape the darts would likely be necessary to give this dress some shape.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
The label for this fabric is long gone from my collection but it appears to be a "techno knit" of some sort. The zebra print only appears on the front surface and is really soft and slightly "brushed" feeling. The back of the fabric is a strange nylon looking, almost spongy texture. There is most definitely some spandex in this fabric because despite its medium weight it has great stretch and excellent recovery. I made leggings for my niece out of the leftovers from this fabric and they don't even bag out at the knees.
Although a medium weight knit is not necessary for this dress I would definitely suggest your fabric have good recovery once stretched.
Design Changes:
I already mentioned skipping the darts for this dress but I also left out the back zipper and back vent at the bottom. The stretch of this particular knit is so comfortable they just weren't necessary and I admit I was in a bit of a hurry to get this done. My well known distaste for facings in knits forced me to use my satin edge elastic again on both the neckline and arm holes. You can see the application for that elastic on this post.
Closing Tips:
This dress pattern really is a classic shape with the additional comfort of an easy fitting knit. I'll certainly have to try this again in another fabric to see if I like it as well.
Well, off to Mexico for me! I hope you all find some time for sewing while I'm gone.
Hasta la vista,
Ann in Calif.
Have Fun! Get a nice tan.
ReplyDeleteHave fun Ann. I did this dress in July and you are right facings on knits are a pain. The dress is so comfy, I wear it a lot.
ReplyDeleteI also omitted the zipper as I found no use for it. Didn't notice the vent though. Oh well...
I've looked all over for a source for satin edged elastic, where do you purchase yours?
ReplyDeleteHi VDoty,
DeleteMy satin edge elastic is from a U.S. eBay seller - Kathy's Lace and Elastic. Since I'm not sure what country you are in I would suggest searching eBay or Etsy. I even turned up one source doing a Google search. I have only seen this available online, never in a store. If you can find it order it in a few colors, many of them can be dyed. I believe satin edge elastic is frequently used as a lingerie elastic.
Hi Ann,
ReplyDeleteI have stumbled across your pages, and what a fantastic help it has been! I do have a question about another dress I am making for my daughter- dress 168 from Supp 296 - I think there may be a marker dot missing on skirt centre front but not enough experiencce with Lutterloh to be sure. when you get a chance could you possibly take a look? thanks and great work keeping us all inspired!
Frances
I do see what you mean Frances. There are 14 dots that make up the front skirt pattern but only 13 numbers. Since the other 3 dots of the pleat have numbers to direct you I would draw out the dots and just make sure that last dot is at the same level as the other dots for the pleats and at an equal distance from the bottom dot of the pleat. If you would rather not estimate then you would need to contact the Lutterloh company to ask for a complete pattern. They should know about this mistake anyway. Thanks for pointing that out.
DeleteI have just discovered your page and what a great source of informatin and help! Thankyou!!! I am hoping you can hel solve a problem with dress 168 from Supp 296.there seems to be a marker dot missing from cenre front on skirt piece. I haven't enough exerience with Lutterloh to just assume there is an error. When you get a chance could you please take a look for me. I am making the dress for my tall skinny daughter who has trouble getting clothes o ft. Many thanks for help and insiring me to tackle the Lutterloh method again after a failed attempt years ago
ReplyDeleteThank you for the compliments on our blog. A lot of work has gone into helping everyone be successful with Lutterloh. There are so many resources on the blog you will have to come back many times! Dress 168 is the pleated dress? The top dot connects to the bottom dart. I don't see a missing dot at all in the pattern. Make the paper pattern and I think you will see it all comes out just fine.
ReplyDeleteHi again, I made the paper pattern and "fudged it". Looking again I counted 14 dots on the picture but only 13 corresponding numerals. I just made one in a spot I thought appropriate and it seems ok.I am now in a spot of bother with the zipper. I have searched lots of internet pages but no joy. It seems there has to be a small centre pleat either side of zipper, but the picture doesnt seem to indicate this. Would that be correct though because of the excess fabric? Oh and a really silly question - the pleats dont actuall have facing do they (the slashed line just means pleat here?). Thanks for you help I really appreciate it!
DeleteI'm looking at each part of this pattern. A good fashion artist will tell us everything in the drawing also so I will use the drawing. the dress looks Crisp, there is a sewn down pleat at the center front.and then one on either side. These are show that they are interfaced in the sew down area. That will make the pleats firm and crisper. The princess line hits the two side pleats(on each side on center) see how they match up? Now looking at the pattern vm is center front, I see the pleat there. on each hip side there is 1/2 of a pleat really another sewn down pleat. In between the middle and the side is another pleat so I see a total of 5 pleats. The back zipper does have a tiny pleat. It does fold over,fold from the center toward the zipper, sew down the pleat and put in the zipper. Be sure this is tiny, just a little softness not a "Puff" at your butt. This would be perfect spot for an invisible zipper you could sew the bodice to the skirt and then put in the zipper and then sew from the skirt bottom up. Does this help you?
Deletethat did help thankyou. I didn;t interface pleats as the fabric is quite firm and they are sitting nicely. It's funny how insecure I felt without an instruction sheet! I will now move on to my daughters' next request with a little more confidence.
DeleteI just want to thank you for being such a valuable resource....I have sewn for a number of years but never could get that "perfect" fit. I am having more luck than I ever had with the Lutterloh system and certainly with your site! I am so grateful for the time you put into this website, so organized and clearly explained. Thank you and hope you are having a wondeful time!
ReplyDeleteI am having a wonderful time too...I've been teaching kids to sew all summer long....8 of them and now 9. We are in a lull with school starting so I'll have some time to share some of what we have been doing. So glad you are having success with your patterns Carlamari.
ReplyDelete