Sunday, August 7, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 289 - Model#267 - Summer 2013
 Chevron Bias Cut Skirt

This skirt is a maxi length, knit version of the original pattern. I wanted an easy pull on skirt and found the chevron pattern really appealing for just a little twist. I felt head to toe chevron stripes would be a little overwhelming so I opted to skip the matching top.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern is really simple to enlarge to your personal size however laying it out on fabric is a little fussy. Do make sure to cut each of the four panels in a single layer or it will be nearly impossible to get the stripes to match. If you lay the pattern pieces out very carefully you can get both the back and front stripes to match and even the sides. I cut one front piece and one back piece on the right side of the fabric and then laid each one down, right sides together, to cut the opposite side. This way I was able to pin each stripe to make sure they didn't shift while cutting the alternating side.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although the pattern does not call for it I used a knit fabric for this skirt. The striped rib knit I used is lightweight and perhaps not the best choice for this pattern. Don't get me wrong, I love the end result but getting there was no walk in the park. Because of it's lightweight nature my fabric was shifty and easily stretched out of shape. Getting the stripes lined up was like wrangling salamanders. If I were to make this skirt again I would be sure to use a heavier weight, good quality knit that I was certain was printed on grain. Of course, as long as you made this skirt with the zipper that was intended you could make it with nearly any fabric with at least a little drape. The bias cut will give you even more movement so many fabrics would be suitable.

Design Changes:
From the photo you can see that my version is only a nod to the original pattern. I was after the basic shape and cool chevron design of this pattern and that's exactly what I got. To make this pattern into a maxi length I started with measuring the drawn pattern and then compared it to the finished length I wanted. I needed to add at least 15 inches just to reach my ankles but I didn't want to widen the hem. The photo below is my pattern after adding the necessary length.
You'll see that I split the pattern horizontally at the cross mark as the Lutterloh company suggests. Before cutting it apart to add paper I also drew a vertical line from top to bottom so I could be sure to keep it straight once all the extra paper was added. 

The other major design change was to substitute a stretchy, fold over, yoga type waistband for the original waistband facings. 
If you want to replicate this type of waistband you can use the tutorial found here. Don't worry that the tutorial appears to be for a child's skirt. The math works fine for adults too. Just make sure that your waistband fabric contains a good percentage of spandex or Lycra. I once made one from a stretchy interlock but once it stretched out the skirt started to sag and wouldn't recover until washed again.

This skirt is as comfortable as it is cute! I could see myself making a bunch more of these in different stripes, prints or even solids. The knit fabric makes it casual but if you wanted to put the zipper in with facings there's no reason it couldn't be dressed up with a silky or similarly drapey fabric.

Since we're approaching the middle of August I'd like to remind you to keep an eye out for the newest Lutterloh supplement #302 due out any day now. It usually shows up on the German Lutterloh site first here but feel free to look for it on the Lutterloh site in your home country.

So folks, keep sewing with those Lutterloh patterns and be sure to use your imagination to turn them into any style your little heart desires.

Happy sewing from,
Ann in Calif.