Monday, August 30, 2021

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

 Supplement 321 - Model#84 - Summer 2021

Knee Length Shorts

    Hi there folks, it's still hot as Hades here in California so I thought I would make one more pair of shorts to get me through the Summer. I knew when I saw this pattern that it would be one I should try.

Pattern Hints: 

   The pattern for these shorts is straight forward but I did find an oddity when comparing the pattern to the fashion drawing.  

Above is the fashion drawing for the back next to the actual back pattern. In the fashion drawing the yoke is taller at the center and narrower at the side seams, the actual pattern is the opposite. I did find that the pattern, once enlarged, is indeed shaped like the pattern drawing not the fashion drawing. There is no way you'll get a "V" shaped yoke out of this pattern piece.

   Another point to note about the pattern is that the shaped waistband is supposed to be cut on the bias. See how the grainline arrow is at a 45 degree angle to the center back? This makes the waistband easier to curve but can also leave you with a stretched out waistband without some stabilization at the seam. I used 1/4 inch twill tape in the seam where the waist joins the yoke as a precaution.

Design Changes:    

   This pattern is really a good basic pattern for straight leg shorts. I made just a couple of changes to suit my preferences. First I left off the belt loops because I knew I wouldn't wear a belt with these. Next was to elongate the front pocket bags. I find that the pockets on most recent Lutterloh patterns are just too shallow to be useful for me.

   The photo above shows the front pocket pattern drawn according to the dots. The red line indicates where the original pattern would have ended. This pocket allows for about half of your hand to fit and ends at about the bottom of the crotch, not good if you want to actually carry anything in your pockets. I extended the depth of the pocket by almost three inches so now it ends below the crotch.

Fabric Used/Suggested:  

   The knit symbol on this pattern would suggest that you can use stretch fabric for these shorts. I wanted to use up some of my 100% cotton corduroy so I used generous seam allowances when cutting the fabric. Since corduroy has a tendency to stretch on it's own, it turns out I didn't need those larger seam allowances. I sewed the entire pattern on the regular sewing line without needing any extra.

Closing Hints:
    Now that I've finished these shorts I'm glad I took the chance with the non stretch corduroy. They're the perfect shorts to take me through the end of Summer and into the Fall. 

Until next time then, Happy Sewing Everyone,

Ann in Calif.