Friday, October 17, 2014

The Lutterloh System Symbols Page Revisited

  The Lutterloh Patterns have always used a symbols page to mark their sewing instructions and pattern pieces. We get lots of questions from users of these patterns that I hope to explain here.

 
   Here is a photo of a symbols page from a 2014 supplement of Lutterloh patterns. The most recent addition to the chart is the bottom symbol that looks like an outline of a dress form which indicates these patterns are for very slim figures. You might wonder, how slim are we talking about? I wanted to be sure so I e-mailed Frank Lutterloh of Fashion Unlimited and asked for clarification. I was told that for these patterns to be the most effective they should be used for ladies with a bust measurement of no more than 90cm. The fuller figure symbol of the dark dress form will appear on patterns that are most suitable for ladies with a bust or hip measurement of at least 110cm.

   The XXL system, which is a completely different system with it's own unique measuring scale, should only be used by those with a bust or hip measurement of at least 130cm. Many have found though that if they are close to the lower limit of the XXL set that the full figure patterns can work just fine with perhaps some more generous seam allowances. I am mentioning these measurements in centimeters because we should all be using the scale to draw the patterns so it's just easier to start with the number we will use on the scale.

   Just remember that both design ease and wearing ease are built into all the Lutterloh Patterns. I have heard that some feel the full figure patterns have less defined curves overall (more ease). This would explain why many of the FF patterns will still work for the XXL size woman yet some who fit into the XXL size range find the XXL patterns too loose. I've also noticed that the slim figure patterns have less pronounced hip curves. However, they are also narrower all over leaving less room (or ease) for much bust or hip curve. With more distinct pattern size ranges for different figure types we will find some overlap into the patterns designed for each figure type but of course the average size pattern range will fit the greater number of people.

   Now I'd like to address some of the FAQs that are posted as comments to our blog. Many of these can be answered with a better understanding of the symbols page.

 
   The photo above shows both a one piece and two piece sleeve. In red I have marked a notch that you could mark to indicate the top of the sleeve where it will meet the shoulder seam. For the sleeve on the left, even though there is only one cross mark to place your pin, you will cut these apart on the bold, solid lines to create two sleeve pieces. The red line I have drawn in indicates where you would mark across the two pieces, and mark notches if you like to be sure they match, before you cut them apart.

   Before you cut them apart you'll also want to mark the grain-line to get them the same for both pieces. For the one piece sleeve you would use the cross mark to line up your ruler. The grain-line on this pattern would also run perpendicular to the sleeve hem. For the two piece sleeve you can also use the cross mark to line up the grain-line but because the hem is curved that cannot be used as a reference. Make sure to mark the little "v" for the front of the sleeve and add seam allowances on any Lutterloh pattern.

   
   This next photo demonstrates a fairly new symbol, added in this century, to the Lutterloh System. The red box is drawn around the straight of grain symbol sitting next to the 90° angle symbol on top of the dashed line at the waist. You'll see that the cross mark for our pin is turned sideways into an 'X" to avoid obscuring the dart, so we can't use that as a reference. So, all these symbols grouped together tells us we should draw the grain-line perpendicular to the waist. Normally the grain-line should run parallel to the center back or center front. Frequently these pieces are placed on a fold so the grain-line is obvious. When there is no fold we need to look for other indicators to find our straight of grain.  

 
   In the case of the bodice above, the green box is drawn around another example of the grain-line at a 90° angle to the waist because the side seam is not straight. On the bias cut skirt the 90° is replaced with a 45° to indicate the front and back pieces should both be placed with the straight of grain at a 45° angle to the fold or on the true bias.

   The bodice photo is also a good example of multiple pieces drawn from one cross mark. The front (A), the front side (AC), the front yoke (AL) and the front button placket (LL) are all drawn as one piece and then cut apart at the bold, solid lines. You would want to mark the grain-line and any notches you desire, indicated by the red lines at the princess seams, before cutting these apart. The placket has the center front marked on its outermost left line, The yoke would have a grain-line perpendicular to the bottom line of that piece, the front grain-line can be aligned with either the waist or the bottom hem and the front side grain-line would be at a right angle to the waist. Again, be sure to add seam allowance to each piece separately.


   Finally, in this last photo, you will see that the cross marks are again turned on their sides, there is no waist line to mark a 90° angle, and the center back is not placed on a fold. For these patterns you would align your straight of grain perpendicular to the bottom hem just below the arrow. There are no other symbols to indicate otherwise and the hem just below the arrow is a roughly straight line. In the case of the pants you can see the center front is marked on the fold for the fly so that could be one more line to follow along with a straight line for the crease going from the top dot to the bottom and at a right angle to the hem. As you can see there's lots of pattern information packed into those little symbols scattered all over your Lutterloh System patterns and these don't even scratch the surface of the issue of fitting. Those issues are far more personal to each user and need to be handled on a case by case basis.

   If there are any other symbols that are perplexing you please don't hesitate to post a comment and we'll try to explain them a little further. However, I have to say, there really is no substitute for a good, solid understanding of sewing terms and how to apply them. To that end I'll include a short list of my favorite sewing reference books. Everyone should have at least a couple of these in their library.

General Sewing and Construction:
  • Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
  • Vogue Sewing
Fitting and Alterations
  • Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty, Rasband and Pottberg-Steineckert
  • The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen
  • Fit For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto
  • Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina
I sure hope you've found this post useful. Keep those questions coming and happy sewing!

Ann in Calif.

Thursday, October 16, 2014

WELCOME

You are on the blog that talks about  EVERYTHING LUTTERLOH

I started this blog in 2009 after finding a collection
 of 1950's Lutterloh patterns
It was love at first sight



With my sewing friend Ann we present postings that should help you 
make your Lutterloh pattern & adjust your pattern

We have both tested so many of these sewing patterns,
 for ourselves, family, and friends.
We feel our experience lets us give you the best information
 to make that Lutterloh purchase, or find, work for you!

Soon we will be updating some of our pages 

We are drawing up new fashions and we want to test them
Time to start sewing before the holidays arrive!

Watch for our new up dates.



Thursday, January 10, 2013

Language issues

We are happy to see people all over the world using Lutterloh.
We are very sorry but we can't use comments that are not in
English and we can't respond as it is a long process to translate.
So our time is better spent writing up new postings. 

May I suggest you contact the Lutterloh representative
in your area for help in a common language.
And Thank you to those who write us in English when
it isn't your 1st language!  


Saturday, November 10, 2012

We aren't gone

Hello Lutterloh pattern makers




We aren't gone.

If you will look on the right side bar we have just covered 
everything we can think of.  We'd still love to hear
from you and get photos of your projects we can post. 
Our side bar is very busy and I've numbered it nicely
but soon I will make it easier, watch for the changes.

So keep making patterns, ask questions for stuff we don't have
and enjoy the up coming holidays.  Maybe your
Lutterloh book has the perfect gift for someone.
A nice evening at my house, is my lutterloh pattern books
a cup of hot cocoa and my husband and dog. 

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Help me out

I want to run a little test. 

 It will help a lot of you out.
It will give the newbies an interesting
look at pattern making. 

If you want to help me out here is what you do
Print out this pattern
Measuring from black line to black line it
should be 13.3 cm wide X 19 cm
When you print it out.

 It is from 2006,
pattern #266
You may already have it.

 Make the Front pattern piece


click on the drawing to enlarge it
Then right click and do a "save as"
When you find your pattern in your computer
right click and turn it to a PDF....If you 
have windows 7 this is very fast and easy.
Be sure you have your printers setting 
so that they Do NOT say "fit to page"
Or any of the change the size comments.
The PDF should print it at the exact size it should be.
I've tested it and it worked perfectly


This is a common simple shape top.
I want to see how many different shapes this one
pattern will make.

I'll post mine and another tomorrow.

When you have your pattern made
 and a photo taken.
Contact me below.
I will soon explain in a posting
all about this.

No one's name will be with their pattern...
Please help me out.
It will be fun!

***************************


  1. As anyone who makes lutterloh patterns know you do
  2. go through paper so buy a nice big roll of
  3. pattern paper...Nancy's notions carry some.
  4. I'd much rather fit with paper first and eliminate the
  5. really big problems, than to test everything in fabric. 
Nov 2012 I have only one front pattern (thank you!).  Not enough for a comparison.  If you'd like to add to my collection, follow the directions above  You are only making the top, feel free to adjust
it for your needed corrections if you are experienced.  If not make it as it is in the pattern.
JOIN US.

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

My medieval May day outfit

It's sharing time


 Just something fun I did. 
 For a long time my friend has wanted me to go to the May day medieval festival. 
 This was the year we went however 
we only gave ourselves a tiny bit over a week to finish our costumes.

I don't know much about this time period so
 I spent some hours watching Cadfile and Robin hood episodes.

Glad I didn't live then...

I decided on a nicely quilted vest and double skirts 8 gore.

So there are three layers in my skirt and
wow does that make you look larger than you are!


Lets start with the Vest. 

I wanted the shoulder to be long so it made that cap they wore
I wanted the back to be longer than the front, kidney warmer style
I wanted to be able to lace up the front 

I took out my cardboard I made from my Vest

I am full busted and so had moved my shoulder dart to my bust side
It makes it easier for me to see if the bust area will fit

I traced this form onto pattern paper



I started drawing the planned changes
I drew out the shoulder by a lot
I added a fold in the front for the lace loops
I made the back longer drawing it
from the sides and working it longer in the back center.
You can see that box around the bust dart? I moved my 
dart to match all those layers underneath. 



Maybe you can see the quilting. Just click on the photo

It took a day to quilt each side.
I was teasing my friend about being her servant
so quilted this on my machine in gold threads.
If you know this time period you will know that only the
wealthy were allowed gold or silver or copper in their clothes. 
My way of having fun with the upper crust

I added 1" to each side and the bottom for quilting.  I didn't need it
I quilted the fabric onto a flannel back and used a walking foot
and the fabric didn't shift at all!

 The white camisole was purchased and I know the sleeves
are Renaissance.

The vest is a little bigger on me than I wanted. I should have removed that
3" the lacing added.  Before I wear it again I will take in the sides 



The outer skirt is linen 
The inner skirt is cotton

Camlann had suggested Spring ware in yellows or greens 
so I raided my sewing stash! 

Oh here is the web site for the fair 
http://www.camlann.org/

This 8 piece skirt was really fun to make
All you need is one pattern piece.  
I wanted to be sure the bulk of the fabric was below my waist 
It was bad enough to have it going over my hips! 

I used a straight skirt pattern
No flair...no A shape, just straight.


    FROM THIS





TO THIS

 The skirts each took 8 of these


If you'd like to learn how to make an 8-gore skirt and you
don't have one in your lutterloh patterns.
I'll write a whole posting on how.

Sunday, March 18, 2012

missing numbers and where to find them

We love your questions and try to get back to you quickly.  A dress pattern was giving one of you some real problems.  The patten didn't have any numbers on one side.  What to do...


Notice the numbers on one side and no cross to put your tack in.

Here is what you do...
The cross is above the skirt with a pointer aimed at the piece it is for
Now look at the hem line, 
You will see two numbers, one set does the side and one set does the hem.
Put your pin at your measurement for your hip on the tape,
now put that in the cross above the skirt and
make the numbers touching the hem.
Next do the numbers just dangling
below the first set of numbers.
 If when marking these numbers the tape goes into your waist or above
take the pin out and move it to your waist measurement
on the tape and continue.

 It's just that easy.

Please note another issue with this pattern.
The strap & waist piece has numbers on one side also and they will do both 
sides of the pattern.  You will see this with small pattern pieces often

The other thing you will see is pieces with just metric measurements
All you have to do is use those measurements to hand drawn that pattern piece


Wednesday, February 15, 2012

How does the Luttterloh system work

Most of you reading this blog are 
deciding if Lutterloh is all it promises 
Or
You just bought the Lutterloh system 
and have no idea what to do first...

I didn't buy my first Lutterloh book at a sewing store class, or 
see a demo at the big sewing expo.  
No, I saw something on e-bay that was old and beautiful and interesting.
 I bid on it and won a book with several stacks of cards from 1940.
  
My knowledge of Lutterloh patterns has all been trial and error.
This learning is what I pass along to you... a journey I have taken
and added Ann, a fellow Lutterloh sewer, in.
  A pattern making, sewing journey. 

Lutterloh patterns started in West Germany in 1935.
Maria Aloisa Lutterloh started the business and
collected her fashions 
from several European fashion houses. 


The patterns were designed using the popular math formula
'The Golden ratio'

The idea of the body's shape being in balance
is a true principle
of mathematical balance.

Leonardo Di Vince used the Golden ratio
so do I when designing weaving patterns.

How does it work?
A pattern is made using an apportioning scale
H=full length of body
1/2 H=upper part of body
1/4 H=length of leg from ankle to knee
  from chin to navel
1/6 H=length of foot
1/8 H=length of head crown to chin bottom
1/10 H=face height and hand length
1/12=width of face

This is just a small sample of an apportioning scale

When you make a Lutterloh pattern 
with your tape and pin stuck in the hole


for the size of your bust
and then your hip you are using the system as a 
Graded system
meaning the pattern is enlarged in set amounts from
one size pattern to the next. 
The US pattern companies use this system.

They make a base pattern 
(much smaller than I am)
and grade it (make it larger in set portions)
until it is my size....



I had four daughters (yes one son) to sew for 
and we needed different size patterns for each. 
I could buy a pattern for each girl
or I could do my own pattern grading, which I did!  
Go crazy grading or spend too much money buying patterns.
(now there are multi-sizes in an envelope)
That still doesn't always work


 Brides maid dresses for my daughters wedding
took this many multi-size patterns to get 
all the girls a correct size! 
 Often you must use muli-pattern lines for larger hips 
or smaller bust and suddenly 
it's not a multi-size pattern.

If only I'd had a Lutterloh pattern book back then!  

Here are pj tops for a daughter and
her two children. 
Made in one hour with one pattern!


The Clear Truth of the Matter

If I buy a pattern or draft my own pattern
or make a much faster Lutterloh pattern
I get the same results.

YES!

Each system doesn't fit my body without help.

They never have whether I was skinny or round as I am now.
 The people I sew for have the same issue.
You can assume most everyone doesn't fit every pattern right off.


With that in mind I offer the idea that
  some skill in fitting will make the difference.
You just need to figure out your own shape and how it differs from
the patterns you like.....
then learn to adjust for those few issues.
For me it's a bust adjustment, a shoulder, and a length adjustment. 

The biggest problem I see when people try to fit
patterns on themselves is they do too much
Fitting is most successful when
you make small changes and only do one change at a time.  
Most people do too much.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

A New Fitting book that will help you fit any pattern




The complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting
by Sarah Veblen
 http://www.sarahveblen.com

I've taken several classes from Sarah and was so happy to see this
wonderful book

This is all done with color photos and step by step instructions.
The photos are clear and easy see what is happening.
Each photo is numbered with an explanation for each photo. 

Get a tripod or a step ladder and put your camera on it
take a photo while fitting and compare it to the book photos
you will see what needs to be done.  
Fix it and take another photo
compare again.

Sarah covers everything! 

How to see the problem
How to correct the problem
How to change your paper pattern to reflect the correction.
How to use HBL, my favorite Horizontal Balance line
What order to fit in for the most success

She councils you on how much fitting is too much!  That's good to hear
She uses real women with shapes we can relate to in her photos.  

Nothing is missing from this fitting book!
  READ it from cover to cover
 Mostly you will only need a couple of the corrections
Note these corrections on paper for next time

Once you see what your fitting problems are
life will get so much easier.  
make those same changes on each pattern 
 
This is why Lutterloh asks you to sew a vest first
it lets you see what changes you need for each pattern

It is best to learn from a simple test pattern. 
1. Make a paper pattern

2. Do a paper fitting
See what might be a problem

3. If you can correct it (as in a shoulder slant)
do it in the paper pattern

4. Make a trial garment from scrap fabric or muslin

5. Take a photo of you in the test garment
Now use the "Perfect fitting"book


Use the photos to match issue you see in your test garment.


Lastly sew with that fashion fabric and enjoy your new outfit.

Do you have to do this each time?

yes and no
You can adjust the paper pattern each time right at the start
You can trust the master pattern to help you fit all the others.

However if I'm making a jacket with a fitted sleeve, or pants
Or a style that looks different than I usually wear I would want
to make a mock up and see if the style is good and if the fit needs 
some adjustment. 


Ann;
Thank you for bringing this up Fonnell.
 I haven't seen this book yet but have read other very favorable reviews. 

I think the important point here is that until we determine our personal fit issues there is no pattern that is going to fit everyone straight from the drawn stage or envelope. The nice thing with Lutterloh is once you work out your fitting alterations on your trial vest then you can use these same adjustments on every Lutterloh pattern there after. 

Whichever fitting book makes sense to you is the one you should use. 
Whether it be Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit or a book from one of Cynthia Guffey's seminars or, my personal favorite, Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty, Pottberg and Rasband the important thing is to just get started fitting! 

 Once you work out your necessary alterations your sewing will be 
so much more enjoyable and productive!

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Tradtional system and X- XX large system which tape for which system

This is our most often asked question in one form or another.  
Let me help everyone understand so when you purchase Lutterloh
you will get the correct tools for making all your families clothes.

1. The traditional system has a tape with a white or cream plastic end.
This can be different depending upon the generation the tape comes from
They all work just fine however check our links on how to place 
your mark with the different generation tapes.


The traditional system pattern books have a mix of patterns, 
something for everyone in the family.
There will be a few knit patterns, and a few patterns for larger women. 
Each has a symbol to show you what the
pattern was designed for.

Check our link for the symbols chart.
#3 on the side bar. 
Also see "The Lutterloh System Symbols page-An evolution"



2. Supplements.  We love the supplements! From all ages.
I have some from the 50's and 60's that take my breath away.
They are still being made and you can purchase them on the web sites 
on our side bar, depending on which country you are in.
Your pattern books contain supplements.
Check our side bar for an article on this. 
There is an older supplement for mature women that
uses the traditional Measuring tape.
These styles are timeless.

I just checked one of the Lutterloh web sites and there is a new
 Fuller Figure supplement and the classic suppliments are nice 
on most everyone also.  

If you are sewing for larger folks
This supplement and the traditional system is for you!


 The X large  XX large tape is the blue on the left

3. The X-large XX large system.  It comes with a tape that is blue.
It does not work on the traditional system
You must use this tape with the x-xx-large system. 


We find that most all women can use the traditional system by choosing styles
that look nice on larger bodies.



The X-large XX Large system has
very large clothing and would only be needed if you find you
are sewing for someone who won't fit anything from the supplements. 

There you have it!
  Every pattern system will require you to make adjustments for
your figure.  You can read some of our postings to help you along.
If you work at making a good fitting vest it will help you know what must be
adjusted in all the Lutterloh patterns.