Saturday, April 23, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 300 - Model #81 - Spring 2016
Loose Crossover Blouse

I have a beach vacation coming up soon so I decided I needed a lightweight blouse to dress up my "resort casual" wardrobe. The very first pattern of Supplement 300 called to me as soon as I laid eyes on it. Once I spotted the chiffon print buried in my stash I knew they were meant to be together. 

Pattern Drafting Hints: 
The first thing I noticed about this pattern is that there is no real closure for this blouse. There is only a narrow elastic band at around hip level that holds the front pieces together so this turns out to be a pullover style. I did find the sleeves, once enlarged, were not going to give me enough room. I have heard this may be a recurring theme with recent Lutterloh patterns so you may want to check the sleeve width against your own arm measurement to be sure. 

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
The chiffon print I used for this blouse is an everyday polyester fabric from the local chain fabric store. This blouse definitely needs to be sewn out of fabric with some drape to it so chiffon certainly fit the bill. Perhaps next time I might try a tissue weight knit or perhaps a lightweight gauze fabric.

Because I knew I was working with a challenging fabric I took some precautions before I started. I first stabilized the entire piece of fabric by soaking it in a solution of a half yard of water soluble stabilizer dissolved in one quart of water. I squeezed out the excess water, without rinsing, before tumbling the fabric in the dryer. Once dry the fabric had a lot more body than its original state. This made it much less shifty and easier to cut. Next I applied fusible knit interfacing to the collar and front crossover pieces. The knit interfacing turned out to be just enough support for creasing without adding stiffness.

Design Changes: 
I'll admit I was tempted to make that collar and lapel piece in a solid navy but I didn't want to end up with just a small piece of the print left. So, other than widening the sleeves and a few other personal alterations for fit there were no changes to this pattern. I knew that the elastic at the hip would not be enough to keep this blouse closed over my ample bust so I planned all along to wear a camisole under it.
  
Closing Hints:    
Every once in a while I'm tempted to buy a fabric that I know will be difficult to work with. However with a little preparation and careful attention to details it can all be worth it in the end. This blouse was not a quick sew by any means. Some of this was due to procrastination but the end result was my reward. My next project will likely be a nice Summer dress just to lighten my mood. I'll think about it while I'm away.

Here's hoping you make some time to sew for yourself.
Happy Sewing,

Ann in Calif.     

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 282 - Model #254 - Fall 2011
Long Sleeve T-shirt

A couple months back when we were sewing T-shirts for our tea party I started this striped T-shirt for myself but I didn't finish it in time to post it with all the others. Now that it's done I think I may have found my go to T-shirt pattern. I was even able to use the pattern to duplicate a top that I bought from the clearance rack after Christmas. I'll get into that a little more later.

This T-shirt is a little on the long side but I wouldn't exactly call it a tunic. Depending on your chosen fabric and whether or not you want to add a little length this could easily work as a tunic if that floats your boat.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern is a pretty straight forward ladies T-shirt pattern. Its distinguishing features are really its longer length and flared long sleeves. I enlarged this pattern with my usual measurements and sewed it without adding seam allowances for a close fit. If I wanted an even longer length I would just add it to the bottom edge.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
Both of these shirts are made from Rayon/Lycra blend fabrics. The striped fabric doesn't have quite as much stretch but both fabrics have a nice drape to them. The striped shirt is finished at the neck with my favorite piped elastic. The solid color shirt is just finished with clear elastic serged at the edge and then turned and topstitched. 

Design Changes:
The striped shirt is the pattern made up with just a few changes plus personal alterations. I reduced the width of the bell sleeves and the width of the neckline. I have trouble eating gracefully with really dangly sleeves. I've also noticed that quite a few of my last Lutterloh patterns had rather open necklines.

This solid colored shirt, on the other hand, has a godet added into a center back seam to create an entirely different look.
I bought a shirt at Macy's after Christmas that had an interesting high/low hemline. When I was folding it to put away I noticed that it really had a basic T-shirt shape with just a slightly curved back bodice. The real shape comes from a wide, triangle shaped godet inserted into the center back seam.
See how close in shape my Lutterloh pattern is to the original shirt. I just needed to add a little length and shape to the back bodice and then trace out the godet triangle. Since the godet is just a triangle I only needed to draw three points and the shape of the hem. Connect the points and I had a nice curved triangle shape for the very back of my shirt.
 
The 3/4 length sleeve was from an entirely different dress pattern but it fit in the hole with no trouble at all, just like a Lutterloh pattern should. This is honestly one of my favorite features of Lutterloh patterns. 
 
Closing Hints:
With the right pattern to start with, a few tweaks here and there should allow you to make a whole wardrobe of T-shirts for Spring and Summer ahead. I have two more of these cut out with and without sleeves. I'm shortening them a little in back now that I managed the duplicate I was after. Here's hoping you find some staple patterns for your stash. It really does cut the sewing time down considerably.

Happy Sewing now,
Ann in Calif.

Friday, January 8, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 299 - Model #56 - Winter 2015
Princess Seam Knit Dress

While shopping for a dress to wear to a Christmas party last month I was reminded why I sew for myself. I found a bunch of dresses with a nice hounds tooth print as an inset but none of them fit quite right. If they fit on top they were too loose in the waist. When I found one that fit everywhere else it was too tight across my bust. If I'm going to spend good money on a party dress I don't want to have to alter it too. Then my Lutterloh supplement arrived in the mail and I knew just what to do with that great hounds tooth knit I'd been saving!

Pattern Drafting Hints:
This particular pattern is a shoulder seam princess cut. I have tried other princess seam patterns that end at the arm hole but always felt they drew too much attention to my bust. I have found the princess line ending at the shoulder to be more elongating and generally more flattering for me. I still use both my high bust and full bust measurements to enlarge the pattern so I need to remember to mark the dots on all the pieces to remind me where to switch numbers on the Lutterloh scale. For a visual of how I mark my dots see this post here.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
I was fortunate to buy the last 3 yards of this hounds tooth print Ponte knit from Girl Charlee Fabrics last Summer. Along with a solid black Ponte I was able to make this dress from just a little over 1 yard of each. If I hadn't needed to lengthen the pattern I probably could have made it with just one yard each. This pattern could probably even be made from a woven with stretch as long as there was a high percentage of spandex included and a nice long zipper to get into it.   

Design Changes: 
The first thing you likely noticed is that I left the collar off this pattern. I did make a collar piece but when I tried it on it reminded me of a schoolmarm and that was definitely not the look I was going for. I removed the collar altogether and cut the neckline down by about 1/2 an inch. My usual satin edge elastic treatment cleaned up the look to my satisfaction. Besides omitting the zipper my only other change was to fold the pattern a little longer than the pattern #56 view. The pattern has you draw the length out to the length of view #55 and then fold the pattern up a certain number of cm for view #56. I just folded it about an inch and a half longer and ended up with my perfect length.

Closing Tips:
I do believe this could turn into a TNT pattern for me. The shape is right and the panels lend themselves to options for color blocking or an allover print fabric. I can even see this shortened as a tunic over leggings or perhaps with godets added to the seams for more flair at the bottom edge. Of course with the Lutterloh System's ability to switch out sleeve patterns you end up with even more options. Uuugghhh, so many ideas, so little time!

If a princess seam pattern is what you're looking for I would wholeheartedly recommend this one! Here's hoping you can find some time for sewing with your Lutterloh patterns.

Happy New Year and Happy Sewing from,
Ann in Calif.
    
Bernice left a comment below and here is her lovely outfit
 Best wishes for the year 2016 ! I like your dress very much moreover because it has the princess cut from the shoulder. Using the Lutterloh pattern N° 41 of 2013 I too made a princess cut dress for a friend in December 2015. This pattern fascinated and challenged me because of the raglan Magyar sleeves with a seam in the center. But I changed the front opening making a double breasted front with soft folds at the waistline on the left. After drafting it, I realized that it was for a very tall figure so I had to adjust the waistline and remove a couple of inches between the bust line and the waistline. The rest had a perfect fit. I used a shiny dark blue lace for the front panel and black double knit fabric for all the other panels. I'm enclosing a photo of my gift.

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

WINNERS of our Lutterloh T- party drawing!


Well folks, our T-party has come to a close and it's our pleasure to announce the winners of our random Lutterloh drawing!

Without further ado we would like to congratulate Ruth in the UK and Bernice in France!



To see all the entries please visit the original T-party post here.

We are so pleased to have received entries from all over the world! Everyone did such a great job of translating their Lutterloh patterns to suit them.

Ruth and Bernice please contact Fonnell with your mailing address at the same e-mail address where you sent your photos and we will get your Supplement #298 mailed out to you ASAP.

We hope you all have plans to do some sewing with your Lutterloh patterns this season

HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all from Fonnell and Ann! 

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

The Lutterloh T-party is now over


The T-party is now closed
Thank you for making all those 
great T-shirts.



Here is our first T-shirt!


  • What is your first name and country where you live?
             Annette, US
  • What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?      2014-143
  • How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made? 
It's been just over 1 year now and I've made 5-6 different patterns.  I'm still definitely learning but enjoying myself

  • What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
 I do not feel the bust measurement works well for my bust, it's not that it's real large or anything, but I am getting a better fit with the high bust measurement.  My upper back is always small and I have to make clothes smaller there.  It's all still a work in progress but I'm getting the hang of it.

  • What sewing machine do you use?
 I have two machines, a Pfaff Expression 3.0 and a Brother Dreamweaver.  I also use my Babylock Enlighten serger and Janome Coverpro 1000

  • What is your favorite sewing tool? 
I absolutely adore my gravity feed iron from Pacific Steam, it was probably one of my best investments ever.
*******************************************






What is your first name and country where you live?
My name is Ruth and I live in the UK.








  • What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?








  • The pattern is from a 2015 supplement 296 and the model is 191. The fabric is a lacy knit with a touch of gold thread running through it.








  • How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
  • I've been using Lutterloh since the beginning of the year so I've made quite a few garments now, mainly separates and one tailored jacket. They have mostly been a good fit just needing a few tweaks at neckline and shoulders.

  • What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
  • I loved the fabric but hadn't got a clue how to sew it so chose the simplest T-shirt pattern I could find! As it turned out it, after some experimenting, it wasn't too difficult using 'Seams Great' and a serger. I ran some gathering stitches round the neck and hem edges to stop it stretching out of shape whilst attaching the binding.

  • What sewing machine do you use?
  • Janome as I work for the company and they are great machines.

  • What is your favorite sewing tool?
  • My wooden block and cutter for making perfect holes in eyelets and keyhole buttonholes.

  • I am looking forward to seeing what the other contestants make as I need some fitted T-shirts to wear under jackets for work. Your blog is great and has been a massive help to me in getting going with Lutterloh.
  • Thanks and regards Ruth 
  • ***************************



     What is your first name and country where you live?Bernice - France

    What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?
    N° 152 - 2013 and a polyster fabric.

    How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
    When I looked for the cowl neck pattern this summer, I found another Lutterloh web site and since it is a challenge for me to sew without the least instructions I bought the kit and this is my 3rd Lutterloh pattern.

    What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
    I liked the length of the T shirt and the hidden pockets in the seam line. The bust measurement had an ease of 7 cm and the armhole was a bit small. Since I wanted a well fitted shoulder line, I used your method, then I increased the armhole and did the necessary changes on the sleeve. I have a few years of experience in stitching so I can manage the adjustments. If I was a  beginner it would have been difficult for me to use the Lutterloh patterns without any instructions.
    What sewing machine do you use?
    For nearly a year I'm using Janome Jeans & stretch 8077. I also have a simple Singer sewing machine which used for about 30 years.

    What is your favorite sewing tool?
    My sewing machine. I can't live without one, as it helps me to sew not only garments, a number of useful articles for our home like curtains, bed linen, table cloth, napkins, aprons,  etc. but it also helps me to do a lot of mending and transformation. I have done a lot of economy by knowing to sew. This credit goes to my mother for having encouraged me and guided me to sew from an early age. At the age of 8-9 years I first started using a hand sewing machine (USHA), then a leg machine (MERRITT), then an electric machine with a motor (SINGER). Now I have an electronic one (JANOME).

    Bernice

    Here is another T-shirt from Bernice







    What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?
    N° 184 - 2013 and a cotton moderate knit fabric.

    How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
    I've been using Lutterloh from september 2015 and this is my 4th Lutterloh pattern.

    What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
    In my kit of Lutterloh patterns (2013) there wasn't any simple T-Shirt. Though some of them had the knit symbol they were sleeveless, or had openings, or gathers or soft pleats. Being my first experience with knit fabric I wanted to stitch something simple so I chose this pattern because it had a side dart and raglan sleeves, but I didn't like the turtle neck. So I made a round neck and finished the neckline with a simple band (your video reference). 
    As in my previous patterns the bust measurement had an ease of 9 cm and the armhole was a bit small. So I did the necessary adjustements there to make it according to my taste. The sleeve had an opening in the crown which was difficult to understand though I drafted it as explained. So I drafted it into a simple raglan sleeve and shaped the neck accordingly. For the hem finishes I used a knit stay fusible, and a twin needle (your reference). On the left hand side of the raglan sleeve seam I embroidered 3 small round mirors. It was fun and excitement about stitching knit fabric for the first time.

    What sewing machine do you use?
    For this knit fabric I used only Janome Jeans & stretch 8077.

    What is your favorite sewing tool?
    My favorite tool after my sewing machine is my cutting board which my husband and I made from a large plank of wood. I put my own markings on it in inches and centimetres, to help me cut straight lines, 
    right angles, semi-circles to cut flares… and I place it on my adjustable ironing table whenver I need it.

    ***********************************************************
    My name is Susan, I live in Baja California Sur, Mexico








    Supplement 287 pattern 205  2012

     I have been using Lutterloh since the 80's. I was a tiny size 4 my daughter a larger size and I sewed for both of us. Some boxes  including the one with my Lutterloh stuff in it got lost in our move  in 2000 and it wasn't until 2007 when I purchased a used system and got started again. Counting my past pattern work I have made 100s.

    I love the drafting, cutting sewing and fit. I decided not to use the facing as the pattern called for and made a neck binding. It did not work as well as I would have liked.  I also changed the high, jewel neck to a deep v-neck.
    I have a Janome Horizon 7700 and a Babylock Imagine 2 serger.
    I have no favorite tool, I love everything in my sewing room!
    It is wonderful to have family here, and wonderful when they go. But the letdown afterward is sometimes hard.
     Saludos,
     Susan

    ************************************************************

    What is your first name and country where you live?
    Joe from central Missouri, U.S.A.
      What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used? 
      Special Edition No. 27 (2000?) #37
      I used a thin cotton jersey knit from Wal-Mart. I wish I had followed Fonnell's advice and gone with something with more weight.
      How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
      I have made a few shirts and pajama shirts with Lutterloh patterns in the past couple of years.

      What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
      Am always impressed with how these patterns go together. I wish I had watched the binding video before I put my binding on, I assumed that the shoulder seams were the two center sides, assuming that may have caused some puckering in the end result. In spite of that I am pleased with how my shirt turned out. This will be a work shirt layered on top of or underneath another shirt.
      What sewing machine do you use?
      A Kenmore 158.1345. A five dollar thrift shop find that has never failed me and began my vintage sewing machine interest.

      What is your favorite sewing tool?
      I lucked into a Singer no. 74 Spinet cabinet that I find to be the most cleverly designed sewing cabinet. Small when closed, ample leg room for a big guy when opened, machine (a Singer 201) is angled in the cabinet placing the needle closer to you, the stool “locks in place” underneath the cabinet when closed keeping prying hands away from scissors, buttonholers etc All though, I didn't use that machine on this project.
      *****************************************************************
    What is your first name and country where you live? Ann in Calif., USA

    What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?
      2015/Pattern #238 from Supplement 298. I used a fine cotton rib knit with giraffes printed on it and a heavier rib knit for the neck and sleeve bands.
     
    How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
      I've been using Lutterloh patterns since 2008.

    What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties? 
    I wanted to see if a slim fit womens pattern would work for my slim pre-teen  niece. It worked much better than using the patterns for children because I didn't need to lengthen it. 
     
    What sewing machine do you use?
    I use a Brother 4500D sewing machine and a Babylock Enlighten serger.

    What is your favorite sewing tool ? I use my DRITZ EZY-HEM tool on nearly every project.
    **************************************************************
     

    Sunday, November 15, 2015

    T-shirts

    There is a real beauty in making such a simple garment.
    Let me take you step by step


    1. Choose your Lutterloh pattern.   Any knit pattern in your Lutterloh collection can be made into a t-shirt.  The hallmarks of a T-Shirt is a round neck with no collar, short sleeves, simple shaping, simple hems, typically made from cotton fabric.  If you lay it out it makes a T shape!



    2Knit Fabric will be your most carefully planned part of this project. 
         Why?  There are so many  knits types and each makes the garment different.
          Here are some of the better choices for T-shirts
        
    •  Cotton Jersey Knits, come in different weights.  The lighter the weight the more tightly it will hug you.  Very light Jersey is hard to cut and hard to sew and it is being sold more and more often.  I love a med weigh Jersey and that is what I will make my t-shirt out of because I have a drawer full.
    • Cotton Lycra and Cotton Spandex knits (used mostly for sports wear)
    • Cotton interlock Knits
     The Give or Stretch of your fabric will change how you plan your pattern drawing.  
    example:  A stable knit that has no Give is best made with a pattern NOT for knits
                     A knit with 100% Give will need a knit pattern perhaps
                                             as much as 1 size smaller than you wear
    Here is a bit of a guide to help you.  Take and put your hands at each end of 4" of knit fabric.  Pull with both hands with a ruler below you.  How much has that 4" pulled comfortably to?

    Stable Knits: 1/2" Approx.
    Moderate Knits: 1" to 1 1/2" Approx.
    loosely stable: 2" Approx.
    Unstable: 4"  Approx.
    As knits go from Stable to unstable the fabric and the 
    garment goes from staying as your pattern was cut to
    a garment that grows in size as you wear it. 

    Because we can't let you touch my collection of knits and explore 
    this on our blog you will have to give this a try in your fabric
     store and at home.  You must make adjustments with 
    your pattern to fit the Stretch of the fabric and the 
    look you are wanting.

      3. Use a knit needle in your machine.  It's a difference between a sharp needle that can pierce the knit or a rounded needle that will slip between the yarns of the knit.  I use Schmetz needles and I have a Jersey ball point and a package of Stretch needles. Use a size fitting to the knit weight, mostly 80/12 and 75/11


    4. Neckbands are the mystery to many however the easiest part when well measured.  I love this blog for some great neckband choices and hem finishes.

     http://madmim.com/finishing-techniques-for-knit-fabric-stretch-yourself/

    How about a video on making a neckline, nine minutes long, loads a bit slow but very helpful!
    Sarah is a very good teacher, I've taken many of her classes.
     Watch this before cutting your neck binding

    http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3839/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits





    5. Hems   I'm a bit fussy about my hems.  I don't want any ripples or wide stretched out looking hems.

    I will put a little soluble stabilizer on the cut edge and surge over it then I make my hem with
     only a single fold.  I finish off with sewing on the front side with a double needle.
    It make a very nice hem.


    HINTS:

    As you sew the shoulder seam sew in a strip of like colored selvage or some other stable woven strip of fabric.  Your shoulders will then stay nicely in shape.  

    Darts the new addition to t-shirts.  The nature of a t-shirt is loose, but why not a dart in front? just a bit of one.

    I start with a piece of scrap folded fabric as I sew, then sew right into the knit seam, this saves the knit from being pulled into the bobbin area at the very beginning.  The scrap is a little bridge to stating.  

    Ann have you some hints to add? 

    Well yes, I do....

    I like to use a strip of clear elastic in the shoulder seam. You see this often used in RTW garments and it works particularly well for very stretchy or heavy knits. I will even use clear elastic inside the folded edge of a neckline if the fabric is very thin or easily stretches out of shape.

    For an alternate hem treatment to avoid ripples and stretching see the end of this post.
    http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2014/11/lutterloh-patterns-come-alive.html 

     It's up to you now to create a T-shirt 
    add sparkle, add designs, make it festive for
    holiday gathering.  There is nothing plain about 
    T-shirts you make yourself!

    Join the T-party

      Thursday, October 15, 2015

      I am the owner of this bog!

      Hi Everyone...This is me....Fonnell.  
      I started this blog a long time ago.
      I wanted to help you all learn to use
      The Lutterloh pattern system.

      It's been a long haul and a lot of work!
      I am grateful for Ann adding to this blog
      she is amazing.

      But please don't forget all my work and that I do own and 
      manage this blog.
      Give me credit once in a while you yahoo folks.
      Please!  
      I put my my heart and soul into this blog.

      Sunday, September 20, 2015

      Supplement 292 - Model #202 - Spring 2014

      Knit Sheath Dress

      Next week I'll be on vacation in Mexico and figured I would need some dresses that were easy to wear as well as easy to pack. This Lutterloh dress certainly fits the bill. The bust darts appear as tucks in the shoulders and there are long shaping darts on both front and back.

      Pattern Drafting Hints: 
      I love the shoulder darts on this dress and found with the fabric that I used I didn't even need the long shaping darts in front or back. With a thinner knit or one with more drape the darts would likely be necessary to give this dress some shape. 

      Fabric Used/Suggested:  
      The label for this fabric is long gone from my collection but it appears to be a "techno knit" of some sort. The zebra print only appears on the front surface and is really soft and slightly "brushed" feeling. The back of the fabric is a strange nylon looking, almost spongy texture. There is most definitely some spandex in this fabric because despite its medium weight it has great stretch and excellent recovery. I made leggings for my niece out of the leftovers from this fabric and they don't even bag out at the knees. 
      Although a medium weight knit is not necessary for this dress I would definitely suggest your fabric have good recovery once stretched.

      Design Changes:  
      I already mentioned skipping the darts for this dress but I also left out the back zipper and back vent at the bottom. The stretch of this particular knit is so comfortable they just weren't necessary and I admit I was in a bit of a hurry to get this done. My well known distaste for facings in knits forced me to use my satin edge elastic again on both the neckline and arm holes. You can see the application for that elastic on this post.

      Closing Tips:
      This dress pattern really is a classic shape with the additional comfort of an easy fitting knit. I'll certainly have to try this again in another fabric to see if I like it as well.

      Well, off to Mexico for me! I hope you all find some time for sewing while I'm gone. 

      Hasta la vista,
      Ann in Calif. 
       

      Thursday, August 13, 2015

      Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

      Supplement 288 - Model #143 - Spring 2013
       Peplum Top
       
      This peplum top is designed for knit fabrics. This has turned out to be my favorite top this Summer. The neckline isn't too low and the bust dart provides lots of opportunities for design changes. The straps aren't too narrow but they are cut in just a little at the shoulders so I need a racer back bra under it to avoid straps showing in back. The shorts I'm wearing in the photos are reviewed on my last post here. 

      Pattern Drafting Hints:
      The peplum top look this year is a little looser and lower than when it was at the height of it's popularity from a couple years back. However, this shouldn't stop you from enjoying this shape if it makes you happy. If you check out this link on the Fabric Mart blog you'll see that the most important tip on wearing this trend is to get the proportions right for your figure. There's even a tutorial on how to extend the peplum longer to turn this into a dress here! Because this Lutterloh pattern provides both a bust dart and a fairly shallow peplum it affords lots of opportunities for adjusting it to your figure and the shape of the current trend. 

      Fabric Used/Suggested:
      Both of the tops in these photos are made from Rayon/Lycra blends. They're both fairly thin and clingy but also have considerable two way stretch and great recovery. The first top I made from this pattern was from a cotton interlock. It was indeed comfortable but because the fabric did not have much stretch or good recovery I ended up with a top that was fairly shapeless falling from my full bust, not a good shape for an hourglass figure. Just keep in mind when choosing your fabric for this top that it needs to stretch over your full bust but also recover well enough to accentuate your waist. 

      Design Changes:
      It's difficult to see in the photos that the bust dart has been rotated into subtle gathers at the neck. The dart would have interrupted the striped pattern. If using a solid or a very small, busy pattern I wouldn't bother to do this. For a little exercise and some suggestions on how to rotate your bust dart, check out this blog post. If you rotate your bust dart to the bottom of your bodice pattern remember that this will make your bodice wider where it attaches to the peplum. You'll need to slash and spread your peplum pattern an equal amount or you'll end up with gathering where your bodice and peplum meet.

      Because of the slight cutting in of the armholes I would lay my pattern over another T-shirt pattern with regular shoulders to extend them if I wanted to add sleeves. Otherwise a close fitting sleeve may have to stretch too much in the back causing strange wrinkles.  

      Closing Tips: 
      After making this pattern up in a few different knits I'd have to say I definitely prefer the ones that have a little spandex in the blend. If you don't think the peplum look is right for you I would suggest doing a search for some different images. You'll see that you can wear a peplum in lots of varying shapes and you just might find one that you'd like to try.

      Now, for a little announcement.....  The newest Lutterloh supplement is available for preview on the German Lutterloh site or the UK site here.
      Check out the new patterns coming and keep using those Lutterloh patterns!

      Happy sewing everyone,
      Ann in Calif.

      Monday, July 27, 2015

      Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

      Supplement 270 Model #111 - Autumn 2008
      Straight Leg Jeans

      Here is my version of model #111 from Supp. 270/2008. I have made this pattern up into long pants before and they were so comfortable that I actually wore them out. We're having such a hot summer here in the San Francisco Bay Area that I decided to supplement my regular wardrobe of T-shirt dresses with some shorts and tops. The peplum top in this photo is model #143 from Lutterloh Supp. 288/2013. I'll review the top in a later post since I did make some modifications to the pattern. You can see that top review here.


      Pattern Drafting Hints:
      I chose this pattern because of its jeans styling with a straight leg rather than the skinny jeans that are so popular these days. After all not every figure is suited to every style and the skinny jeans tend to give my figure an ice cream cone shape. I feel a little too old to be sporting that look.

      A while back I experimented with a few pants patterns to find the right shape for the fit I prefer. You can see that post here. After some trial and error I discovered that I preferred a straight leg with a shaped waistband and back yoke. 
      The picture above is the pattern pieces for these pants. The rise is just a little lower than the ones from my previous post as you can see by the length of the zipper. Fortunately I did find the pockets to be deep enough. I wanted to demonstrate their depth by putting my hand in my pocket for the final photo above. 

      Fabrics Used/Suggested:
      The fabric I used for these shorts is a subtle herringbone stripe stretch twill. It's one of those fabrics that I ordered online and as soon as I used it for a project I wished I had ordered more. Oh well, live and learn. The original pair of pants that I made from this pattern was from a soft stretch pinwale corduroy. The softness of the fabric likely contributed to their early demise. The twill is holding up much better. This pattern does not call for using a stretch fabric but a little extra stretch and recovery never hurts in a pair of pants, huh?

      Design Changes:
      Obviously this pattern is for long pants but what I needed was shorts. Since I already had my personal alterations worked out for this pattern I decided to shorten them to just below the knee. For a tip on how to find the knee point on your pattern see the post I referred to above in Pattern Drafting Hints. The only other change I made to these shorts was to leave off the belt loops. I very rarely wear a belt in my pants because most of my shirts are not tucked in. Why go to the trouble of making all those loops if they'd never be used?

      Although not really a design change I thought it worth showing how I used thinner quilting cotton as the pocket bags to reduce the show through on the front of the pants. 
      I sliced the pocket pattern apart in a curve about an inch below the outside curve on the front of the pants. You can use the pattern piece for the front pant to get the curve right. The top of the pocket is cut from your pants fabric and the lower, inside portion can be cut from whatever fabric you choose. I use quilting cotton because its thin and lays flat under the fashion fabric. Once you've cut the pattern piece apart you now need to add seam allowances on both parts. Since the seam will be inside and completely hidden you can attach the upper and lower pieces together by just laying them atop one another creating a less bulky seam. The lining for the front of the pocket is also cut from the quilting fabric. The lining for the front pocket piece will have to be carefully pressed and top stitched to avoid any contrast fabric showing on the pocket curve. This should give you a pocket that looks cohesive with the fashion fabric but doesn't show through much from the front of the pants.

      Closing Tips: 
      Once you've determined what style of pants you like to wear you can concentrate on finding a pattern that will give you the right shape. Make sure to pay close attention to the length of zippers, width of the legs and of course the fashion drawings, in all the views provided, to give you clues as to the rise and width of the pants and the weight of the fabric to use. 

      Here's hoping you find your ideal Lutterloh pants pattern. It is certainly worth the effort.

      Until next time, Happy Sewing from,

      Ann in Calif.