We are a couple of fans of the Lutterloh designs
who love to sew clothes that fit.
You can also successfully make a wardrobe from your
Lutterloh pattern book.
Our blog is improving, and we are sewing more and more!
Supplement 294 Model #151 - Summer 2014 Short Sleeved/Belted Dress
We're starting a new feature on our Lutterloh blog. Fonnell and I will be sewing fashions from the currently available supplement and then reviewing them for you here. This will give everyone the opportunity to see a few of the fashions on real people and spark more conversation about these fabulous patterns. So, here we go, my version of model #151.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
When I draw out my patterns I always make a copy first so I can cut it apart into the separate pieces such as front, back, collar, sleeves etc. This way I can tape each tiny pattern piece to my pattern paper and leave them there in case I need to check for accuracy later.
I used a rayon/spandex jersey for this dress. I realize there's no knit symbol indicated on this pattern but that rarely stops me from using the fabrics that I like to wear.You can see from the photo my fabric choice resulted in a dress with a much more relaxed drape.
I'm sure in a firmer woven fabric the details such as the pleats at the neckline and gathers below the belt would be more pronounced. This dress would also look lovely in a light twill, suedecloth, crepe or suiting fabric.
Because of the jersey I used I was able to eliminate the back zipper altogether. I also chose to forgo the self fabric belt. I didn't think the fabric would be firm enough to withstand all the bending at the waist.
The neckline on my dress looks different because I found the pleats too puffy for my already ample bustline. Instead I sewed the pleats down along the fold markings to form tucks.
This pattern went together easily enough. Just what you'd expect from a Lutterloh. I'd like to share with you one last tip that I almost always use when hemming knit garments. To avoid that wavy look that sometimes happens when hemming knits I like to use strips of fusible knit interfacing to stabilize the hems. First determine what the depth of the hem will be and cut enough strips, with a rotary cutter, to go all the way around. Do the same for the sleeves. Then serge the strips, fusible side up, to the inside of the hem.
The strips mark the depth of the hem as you fold right at the edge of the strips. When you press up the hem it is stabilized and held in place for top stitching at the same time.
I sure hope you find this review helpful. Believe me, the more you use these patterns the easier they get to use. If this review has left you with any questions please post them in the comments. We'd love to hear what you would really like to see in a Lutterloh pattern review.
but we'll be patient. I see some interesting zippered pocket details and lots of knit pullover top patterns. There are three pages of full figure patterns as well as one of the new slim figure patterns. No mens or childrens patterns in this issue though.
Have fun perusing the new patterns so you can start planning your sewing now.
Fonnell and I are making up some Lutterloh fashions that we'll be reviewing soon so stay tuned.
that is where they will check back for our answer.
Wouldn't you like to see some of those
QUESTIONS and ANSWERS?
Here are Fonnell and Ann's favorite Questions and Answers.
Maybe you will find some valuable information here.
QUESTION: Where do I use the bust measurements
and where do I use the hip measurements? ANSWER: Bust measurement is used in all parts above and
including the waist.That includes collars, necklines, sleeves, front and back upper bodice pieces. Hip measurements are used for all pattern parts below the waist as in skirts, pants and shorts. QUESTION: How exactly should I take my bust and hip measurements? ANSWER: If you check out this link : http://www.lutterloh.com/ you will find a couple videos that should explain this more clearly. It is a little different than you would regularly take measurements.
QUESTION: Can I buy a replacement for my Lutterloh tape separately
or do I have to buy the whole kit? ANSWER: We are not a Lutterloh System dealer but if you check out the links in our sidebar you should find a dealer that you could ask.
QUESTION: Where can I buy new Lutterloh patterns? Can I buy them individually? ANSWER: Please check the links in our sidebar for a Lutterloh dealer. Lutterloh Patterns are sold in quarterly supplements of 40 patterns to a booklet. They are not offered for individual sale through Lutterloh. QUESTION: Where can I buy older or vintage Lutterloh patterns? ANSWER: The U.S. and European Lutterloh websites offer many of the older supplements dating back about 20 years. For supplements or whole kits older than this watch for offers on Ebay, Etsy or other popular auction sites. Prices vary be sure you know what older kits are selling for. QUESTION: Will the Lutterloh company draft a pattern from my own design or a photo? ANSWER: They never have been known to do that but you could always ask them.
QUESTION: Can I give you a pattern number and year so you can look at what I'm working on? ANSWER: Many people do this however we would have to buy every pattern and we just can't do that. We are not part of Lutterloh so we have no way to have everyone's pattern. Sometimes we get lucky and can find it in one of our books. Mostly we can't. Please send us a copy of your pattern so we can help answer your questions.
QUESTION: Can I use the Lutterloh scale and tape measure to enlarge other small scale pattern drawings? ANSWER: No, the Lutterloh System uses a formula based on the Golden Rule to enlarge only their patterns. There is no way of knowing if other drawings are drawn proportionally correct.
QUESTION: Do I have to make a vest and where is there a pattern for this vest? ANSWER: It is a fitting vest. Once it's made you will make adjustments
to make the bodice fit you better and the vest even goes past your
high hip so you can adjust this. The goal is to note every change you make.
You will make these same changes in every Lutterloh pattern.
The Vest is a fast discovery way to fitting, you may just start making
patterns you like but do paper fit, and note every change you make in
the first few outfits. We have a posting listed on the right that helps
you take your vest pattern a step further. Check it out!
Check with a Lutterloh dealer for a pattern, we have those dealers
listed on the right. We do wonder why Lutterloh hasn't allowed us
to share these helpful things, like vest patterns with you. Someday maybe!
QUESTION: My pattern looks askew on the paper once I’m done enlarging it. Should I still use it? ANSWER: Remember that each person will use their own measurements to draw their pattern. Because we each have our own combination of bust to hip ratio this will sometimes cause the pattern to tilt away from the original tiny drawing. As long as you are following the directions carefully for drawing out your dots and connecting them your pattern should work just fine. Check out our links on the right sidebar to find a post on drawing out your patterns. Trust the system and make sure to paper fit the pattern.
QUESTION: Is there an index for Lutterloh Patterns somewhere or do I have to flip through all my patterns to find the one I need? ANSWER: Unfortunately there is no master index for the huge collection of Lutterloh Patterns spanning nearly 80 years. However since more than half of those have been published on individual pages there is no stopping you from categorizing them in your binders in whatever order you like.
QUESTION: Ease, everyone asks how much ease is in each pattern. Ease is how much space the pattern allows for movement in the garment. ANSWER: There was much less ease in the fashions of the 1950's, 1960's and 1970's. Ease seems to be growing in the Lutterloh patterns. The style of a fashion will denote less ease also. I've never seen a pencil skirt with but a little ease. Knit fashions in Lutterloh can't tell how stretchy your fabric is so ease will be greatly determined by how far that fabric stretches against a ruler. We have several postings on our right bar about ease. You should find them all useful.
QUESTION: Can you explain how to calculate the yardage needed
for the pattern I'm making? ANSWER: Most of the patterns have two numbers right under the fashion drawing. That is the amount of fabric it would take to make that garment if your bust is 92 cm If your bust isn't that size you can learn more about fabric calculations at this posting on our blog: http://sewingnhumming.blogspot.com/2009/07/fabric-requirements.html
QUESTION: Is there something Fonnell would like to tell us about Lutterloh? ANSWER: YES! no pattern, including Lutterloh patterns know how long
you want your sleeves, your pants, your skirts, your tops, your dresses.
Only you know so paper fit every pattern you make.
How do you paper fit? Lay the paper pattern up to your body. It is only half a pattern so the center should reach your center,
the sides should meet your sides. I don't put seam allowances on
my patterns until I lay them on the fabric. I can clearly see when a
pattern is not wide enough and I can clearly see when I want something
longer or shorter. I can then take my pattern back to my paper roll
and tape changes to it or cut and remove parts and paper fit again.
I'm working alone so I pin the patterns right to my clothes
I have on to look at all angles of the fit.
QUESTION: Is there something Ann would like to tell us about Lutterloh?
ANSWER: Yes, although we enlarge the luttlerloh patterns to our unique measurements rarely will any pattern fit without at least some personal alterations. By making the fitting vest first each person can discover which alterations will achieve the best fit for them. If you are new to altering your patterns to get the optimal fit, your best resource would be a reference book detailing these alterations. It is usually recommended to start from the top of the pattern and work your way down doing just one alteration at a time. This may require a few test garments or "muslins" but the time is well worth it since these will
be the same alterations you will make for each Lutterloh pattern thereafter.
There are a few recommendations for fitting books at the end of this post:
The Lutterloh Patterns have always used a symbols page to mark their sewing instructions and pattern pieces. We get lots of questions from users of these patterns that I hope to explain here.
Here is a photo of a symbols page from a 2014 supplement of Lutterloh patterns. The most recent addition to the chart is the bottom symbol that looks like an outline of a dress form which indicates these patterns are for very slim figures. You might wonder, how slim are we talking about? I wanted to be sure so I e-mailed Frank Lutterloh of Fashion Unlimited and asked for clarification. I was told that for these patterns to be the most effective they should be used for ladies with a bust measurement of no more than 90cm. The fuller figure symbol of the dark dress form will appear on patterns that are most suitable for ladies with a bust or hip measurement of at least 110cm.
The XXL system, which is a completely different system with it's own unique measuring scale, should only be used by those with a bust or hip measurement of at least 130cm. Many have found though that if they are close to the lower limit of the XXL set that the full figure patterns can work just fine with perhaps some more generous seam allowances. I am mentioning these measurements in centimeters because we should all be using the scale to draw the patterns so it's just easier to start with the number we will use on the scale.
Just remember that both design ease and wearing ease are built into all the Lutterloh Patterns. I have heard that some feel the full figure patterns have less defined curves overall (more ease). This would explain why many of the FF patterns will still work for the XXL size woman yet some who fit into the XXL size range find the XXL patterns too loose. I've also noticed that the slim figure patterns have less pronounced hip curves. However, they are also narrower all over leaving less room (or ease) for much bust or hip curve. With more distinct pattern size ranges for different figure types we will find some overlap into the patterns designed for each figure type but of course the average size pattern range will fit the greater number of people.
Now I'd like to address some of the FAQs that are posted as comments to our blog. Many of these can be answered with a better understanding of the symbols page.
The photo above shows both a one piece and two piece sleeve. In red I have marked a notch that you could mark to indicate the top of the sleeve where it will meet the shoulder seam. For the sleeve on the left, even though there is only one cross mark to place your pin, you will cut these apart on the bold, solid lines to create two sleeve pieces. The red line I have drawn in indicates where you would mark across the two pieces, and mark notches if you like to be sure they match, before you cut them apart.
Before you cut them apart you'll also want to mark the grain-line to get them the same for both pieces. For the one piece sleeve you would use the cross mark to line up your ruler. The grain-line on this pattern would also run perpendicular to the sleeve hem. For the two piece sleeve you can also use the cross mark to line up the grain-line but because the hem is curved that cannot be used as a reference. Make sure to mark the little "v" for the front of the sleeve and add seam allowances on any Lutterloh pattern.
This next photo demonstrates a fairly new symbol, added in this century, to the Lutterloh System. The red box is drawn around the straight of grain symbol sitting next to the 90° angle symbol on top of the dashed line at the waist. You'll see that the cross mark for our pin is turned sideways into an 'X" to avoid obscuring the dart, so we can't use that as a reference. So, all these symbols grouped together tells us we should draw the grain-line perpendicular to the waist. Normally the grain-line should run parallel to the center back or center front. Frequently these pieces are placed on a fold so the grain-line is obvious. When there is no fold we need to look for other indicators to find our straight of grain.
In the case of the bodice above, the green box is drawn around another example of the grain-line at a 90° angle to the waist because the side seam is not straight. On the bias cut skirt the 90° is replaced with a 45° to indicate the front and back pieces should both be placed with the straight of grain at a 45° angle to the fold or on the true bias.
The bodice photo is also a good example of multiple pieces drawn from one cross mark. The front (A), the front side (AC), the front yoke (AL) and the front button placket (LL) are all drawn as one piece and then cut apart at the bold, solid lines. You would want to mark the grain-line and any notches you desire, indicated by the red lines at the princess seams, before cutting these apart. The placket has the center front marked on its outermost left line, The yoke would have a grain-line perpendicular to the bottom line of that piece, the front grain-line can be aligned with either the waist or the bottom hem and the front side grain-line would be at a right angle to the waist. Again, be sure to add seam allowance to each piece separately.
Finally, in this last photo, you will see that the cross marks are again turned on their sides, there is no waist line to mark a 90° angle, and the center back is not placed on a fold. For these patterns you would align your straight of grain perpendicular to the bottom hem just below the arrow. There are no other symbols to indicate otherwise and the hem just below the arrow is a roughly straight line. In the case of the pants you can see the center front is marked on the fold for the fly so that could be one more line to follow along with a straight line for the crease going from the top dot to the bottom and at a right angle to the hem. As you can see there's lots of pattern information packed into those little symbols scattered all over your Lutterloh System patterns and these don't even scratch the surface of the issue of fitting. Those issues are far more personal to each user and need to be handled on a case by case basis.
If there are any other symbols that are perplexing you please don't hesitate to post a comment and we'll try to explain them a little further. However, I have to say, there really is no substitute for a good, solid understanding of sewing terms and how to apply them. To that end I'll include a short list of my favorite sewing reference books. Everyone should have at least a couple of these in their library.
General Sewing and Construction:
Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Fitting and Alterations
Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty, Rasband and Pottberg-Steineckert
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen
Fit For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto
Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina
I sure hope you've found this post useful. Keep those questions coming and happy sewing!
We are happy to see people all over the world using Lutterloh.
We are very sorry but we can't use comments that are not in
English and we can't respond as it is a long process to translate.
So our time is better spent writing up new postings.
May I suggest you contact the Lutterloh representative
in your area for help in a common language.
And Thank you to those who write us in English when
it isn't your 1st language!
Print out this pattern
Measuring from black line to black line it
should be 13.3 cm wide X 19 cm
When you print it out.
It is from 2006,
You may already have it.
Make the Front pattern piece
click on the drawing to enlarge it
Then right click and do a "save as"
When you find your pattern in your computer
right click and turn it to a PDF....If you
have windows 7 this is very fast and easy.
Be sure you have your printers setting
so that they Do NOT say "fit to page"
Or any of the change the size comments.
The PDF should print it at the exact size it should be.
I've tested it and it worked perfectly
This is a common simple shape top.
I want to see how many different shapes this one
pattern will make.
I'll post mine and another tomorrow.
When you have your pattern made
and a photo taken.
Contact me below.
I will soon explain in a posting
all about this.
No one's name will be with their pattern...
Please help me out.
It will be fun!
As anyone who makes lutterloh patterns know you do
go through paper so buy a nice big roll of
pattern paper...Nancy's notions carry some.
I'd much rather fit with paper first and eliminate the
really big problems, than to test everything in fabric.
Nov 2012 I have only one front pattern (thank you!). Not enough for a comparison. If you'd like to add to my collection, follow the directions above You are only making the top, feel free to adjust it for your needed corrections if you are experienced. If not make it as it is in the pattern. JOIN US.
We love your questions and try to get back to you quickly. A dress pattern was giving one of you some real problems. The patten didn't have any numbers on one side. What to do...
Notice the numbers on one side and no cross to put your tack in.
Here is what you do...
The cross is above the skirt with a pointer aimed at the piece it is for
Now look at the hem line,
You will see two numbers, one set does the side and one set does the hem.
Put your pin at your measurement foryour hip on the tape,
now put that in the cross above the skirt and
make the numbers touching the hem. Next do the numbers just dangling
below the first set of numbers.
If when marking these numbers the tape goes into your waist or above
take the pin out and move it to your waist measurement
on the tape and continue.
It's just that easy.
Please note another issue with this pattern.
The strap & waist piece has numbers on one side also and they will do both
sides of the pattern. You will see this with small pattern pieces often
The other thing you will see is pieces with just metric measurements
All you have to do is use those measurements to hand drawn that pattern piece