Sunday, September 20, 2015

Supplement 292 - Model #202 - Spring 2014

Knit Sheath Dress

Next week I'll be on vacation in Mexico and figured I would need some dresses that were easy to wear as well as easy to pack. This Lutterloh dress certainly fits the bill. The bust darts appear as tucks in the shoulders and there are long shaping darts on both front and back.

Pattern Drafting Hints: 
I love the shoulder darts on this dress and found with the fabric that I used I didn't even need the long shaping darts in front or back. With a thinner knit or one with more drape the darts would likely be necessary to give this dress some shape. 

Fabric Used/Suggested:  
The label for this fabric is long gone from my collection but it appears to be a "techno knit" of some sort. The zebra print only appears on the front surface and is really soft and slightly "brushed" feeling. The back of the fabric is a strange nylon looking, almost spongy texture. There is most definitely some spandex in this fabric because despite its medium weight it has great stretch and excellent recovery. I made leggings for my niece out of the leftovers from this fabric and they don't even bag out at the knees. 
Although a medium weight knit is not necessary for this dress I would definitely suggest your fabric have good recovery once stretched.

Design Changes:  
I already mentioned skipping the darts for this dress but I also left out the back zipper and back vent at the bottom. The stretch of this particular knit is so comfortable they just weren't necessary and I admit I was in a bit of a hurry to get this done. My well known distaste for facings in knits forced me to use my satin edge elastic again on both the neckline and arm holes. You can see the application for that elastic on this post.

Closing Tips:
This dress pattern really is a classic shape with the additional comfort of an easy fitting knit. I'll certainly have to try this again in another fabric to see if I like it as well.

Well, off to Mexico for me! I hope you all find some time for sewing while I'm gone. 

Hasta la vista,
Ann in Calif. 

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 288 - Model #143 - Spring 2013
 Peplum Top
This peplum top is designed for knit fabrics. This has turned out to be my favorite top this Summer. The neckline isn't too low and the bust dart provides lots of opportunities for design changes. The straps aren't too narrow but they are cut in just a little at the shoulders so I need a racer back bra under it to avoid straps showing in back. The shorts I'm wearing in the photos are reviewed on my last post here. 

Pattern Drafting Hints:
The peplum top look this year is a little looser and lower than when it was at the height of it's popularity from a couple years back. However, this shouldn't stop you from enjoying this shape if it makes you happy. If you check out this link on the Fabric Mart blog you'll see that the most important tip on wearing this trend is to get the proportions right for your figure. There's even a tutorial on how to extend the peplum longer to turn this into a dress here! Because this Lutterloh pattern provides both a bust dart and a fairly shallow peplum it affords lots of opportunities for adjusting it to your figure and the shape of the current trend. 

Fabric Used/Suggested:
Both of the tops in these photos are made from Rayon/Lycra blends. They're both fairly thin and clingy but also have considerable two way stretch and great recovery. The first top I made from this pattern was from a cotton interlock. It was indeed comfortable but because the fabric did not have much stretch or good recovery I ended up with a top that was fairly shapeless falling from my full bust, not a good shape for an hourglass figure. Just keep in mind when choosing your fabric for this top that it needs to stretch over your full bust but also recover well enough to accentuate your waist. 

Design Changes:
It's difficult to see in the photos that the bust dart has been rotated into subtle gathers at the neck. The dart would have interrupted the striped pattern. If using a solid or a very small, busy pattern I wouldn't bother to do this. For a little exercise and some suggestions on how to rotate your bust dart, check out this blog post. If you rotate your bust dart to the bottom of your bodice pattern remember that this will make your bodice wider where it attaches to the peplum. You'll need to slash and spread your peplum pattern an equal amount or you'll end up with gathering where your bodice and peplum meet.

Because of the slight cutting in of the armholes I would lay my pattern over another T-shirt pattern with regular shoulders to extend them if I wanted to add sleeves. Otherwise a close fitting sleeve may have to stretch too much in the back causing strange wrinkles.  

Closing Tips: 
After making this pattern up in a few different knits I'd have to say I definitely prefer the ones that have a little spandex in the blend. If you don't think the peplum look is right for you I would suggest doing a search for some different images. You'll see that you can wear a peplum in lots of varying shapes and you just might find one that you'd like to try.

Now, for a little announcement.....  The newest Lutterloh supplement is available for preview on the German Lutterloh site or the UK site here.
Check out the new patterns coming and keep using those Lutterloh patterns!

Happy sewing everyone,
Ann in Calif.

Monday, July 27, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 270 Model #111 - Autumn 2008
Straight Leg Jeans

Here is my version of model #111 from Supp. 270/2008. I have made this pattern up into long pants before and they were so comfortable that I actually wore them out. We're having such a hot summer here in the San Francisco Bay Area that I decided to supplement my regular wardrobe of T-shirt dresses with some shorts and tops. The peplum top in this photo is model #143 from Lutterloh Supp. 288/2013. I'll review the top in a later post since I did make some modifications to the pattern. You can see that top review here.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
I chose this pattern because of its jeans styling with a straight leg rather than the skinny jeans that are so popular these days. After all not every figure is suited to every style and the skinny jeans tend to give my figure an ice cream cone shape. I feel a little too old to be sporting that look.

A while back I experimented with a few pants patterns to find the right shape for the fit I prefer. You can see that post here. After some trial and error I discovered that I preferred a straight leg with a shaped waistband and back yoke. 
The picture above is the pattern pieces for these pants. The rise is just a little lower than the ones from my previous post as you can see by the length of the zipper. Fortunately I did find the pockets to be deep enough. I wanted to demonstrate their depth by putting my hand in my pocket for the final photo above. 

Fabrics Used/Suggested:
The fabric I used for these shorts is a subtle herringbone stripe stretch twill. It's one of those fabrics that I ordered online and as soon as I used it for a project I wished I had ordered more. Oh well, live and learn. The original pair of pants that I made from this pattern was from a soft stretch pinwale corduroy. The softness of the fabric likely contributed to their early demise. The twill is holding up much better. This pattern does not call for using a stretch fabric but a little extra stretch and recovery never hurts in a pair of pants, huh?

Design Changes:
Obviously this pattern is for long pants but what I needed was shorts. Since I already had my personal alterations worked out for this pattern I decided to shorten them to just below the knee. For a tip on how to find the knee point on your pattern see the post I referred to above in Pattern Drafting Hints. The only other change I made to these shorts was to leave off the belt loops. I very rarely wear a belt in my pants because most of my shirts are not tucked in. Why go to the trouble of making all those loops if they'd never be used?

Although not really a design change I thought it worth showing how I used thinner quilting cotton as the pocket bags to reduce the show through on the front of the pants. 
I sliced the pocket pattern apart in a curve about an inch below the outside curve on the front of the pants. You can use the pattern piece for the front pant to get the curve right. The top of the pocket is cut from your pants fabric and the lower, inside portion can be cut from whatever fabric you choose. I use quilting cotton because its thin and lays flat under the fashion fabric. Once you've cut the pattern piece apart you now need to add seam allowances on both parts. Since the seam will be inside and completely hidden you can attach the upper and lower pieces together by just laying them atop one another creating a less bulky seam. The lining for the front of the pocket is also cut from the quilting fabric. The lining for the front pocket piece will have to be carefully pressed and top stitched to avoid any contrast fabric showing on the pocket curve. This should give you a pocket that looks cohesive with the fashion fabric but doesn't show through much from the front of the pants.

Closing Tips: 
Once you've determined what style of pants you like to wear you can concentrate on finding a pattern that will give you the right shape. Make sure to pay close attention to the length of zippers, width of the legs and of course the fashion drawings, in all the views provided, to give you clues as to the rise and width of the pants and the weight of the fabric to use. 

Here's hoping you find your ideal Lutterloh pants pattern. It is certainly worth the effort.

Until next time, Happy Sewing from,

Ann in Calif. 

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 297 Model #38 - Summer 2015
 Slim Figure Bikini Swimsuit

These are two swimsuits that I made for my niece K using a Lutterloh "slim figure" pattern. I have always had trouble sewing for K because she is so slender for her age. At age 11 she is now beginning to develop the figure of a teenager so choosing patterns is getting even more challenging. I decided to use this slim figure pattern as an experiment and it did prove at least partially successful. 

Pattern Drafting Hints:
Below is a photo of the pattern pieces I ended up with after enlarging the pattern. I could tell the pattern for the bikini bottom would work just fine but the top was another story. 
Even after expanding the width on all the pieces, the top was just not going to provide enough coverage for her new teenage figure. I decided the remedy would be to build the top around some pre-formed bra cups. I'll detail that change later. 

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
Because the pieces of a bikini are so small I was able to make each of these suits with just a tiny remnant of less than half a yard of nylon/Lycra plus a little lining. Since all the outer edges require elastic I did need about 1 1/4 yards of 3/8" rubber elastic for the outer edges and about 1 1/3 yards of 3/4" rubber elastic for the top and bottom band. Make sure your fabric and elastic are intended for swimwear since these will hold up to chlorine and sun exposure. I chose rubber elastic over the cotton covered type widely available only because I don't like how the covered type stays wet longer than the swimsuit fabric. Both my nylon/Lycra fabric and the rubber elastic were purchased from eBay sellers.

My favorite seller for swimwear fabric:   lycra4sale

Design Changes:
As mentioned earlier I decided to build a top for better coverage from a sew in bikini bra. 
The bra cups come in the package like the tiny photo in the gray box. Since I knew I would use more substantial 3/4" elastic I unpicked the stitches from the existing elastic to separate the cups.
Once the cups were separated I was able to draw around one to create a pattern that was similar in shape to the original Lutterloh pattern. 
You'll see from the photo above that I needed to cut the pattern from the bottom to nearly the edge of the top so I could spread the paper and add some width for gathering. The lining pattern is spread just a little less to fit better inside the concave curve of the cups. 

The lining, fashion fabric and the contrast binding were all sewn directly over the side edges of the bra cups to avoid bunching inside. I left the bottom of the cups free from the gathered edge so the elastic bottom band could stretch as needed.

Closing Tips:
If you'd like to try sewing swimwear I would highly recommend either or both of these two books.

Yes, the styles are a little dated, from the 1990's, but the measuring and construction directions are well worth the cost of the book. If you can only manage to get your hands on an old Stretch & Sew swimsuit pattern the instructions for measuring and elastic application should help with most swimwear projects.

The thing I like most about sewing swimwear is the speed with which you can produce the finished project. The pieces are so small and can even be sewn, start to finish, with nothing more than a regular zig zag stitch. I believe everyone should try it at least once! I actually had to stop myself from cutting more suits for K in order to move onto other projects.

I sure hope everyone is making good use of their Lutterloh patterns. If there's any type of Lutterloh project that you'd like to see more of just leave a comment to this post and we'll see what we can do in the future.
Happy Sewing from,
Ann in Calif.

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive! - FASHION FLASHBACK

Supplement 37 Model#20 - Summer 1950
This is my version of a Lutterloh dress from the Summer of 1950. Obviously I don't have the slim figure or the restrictive undergarments of a model from that era so my dress can't look the same. Nonetheless I'm pleased with the outcome and am happy to wear this lovely frock.

The poodles are not mine. I was with friends strolling in Carmel-by-the-Sea, a little resort town in Northern California, when we took the photos. My friends saw a man walking these dogs and insisted I needed them as props for the photo. They do lend some elegance to the whole scene, don't they?

Pattern Drafting Hints:
I have found there is no point in rushing into these vintage Lutterloh patterns. You can see from the pattern pieces in the photo below that the construction of these vintage patterns is not always as straight forward as the current ones we're used to today.
First of all you absolutely need a vintage Lutterloh scale or at least a current scale attached to a tape measure with all the centimeters marked. I have erased most of the numbers from the pattern above but if you look closely you'll see that there is a 24.3 on the front bodice and a 59.8 on the back skirt piece. The current Lutterloh scales are attached to tapes with only full and half centimeters marked. You could take your tape apart and attach it to the other side of the tape but I'd rather just use a different tape with a vintage scale. 

Next, you may notice that there is no sleeve pattern on this page. I looked over and over at all the pattern pages in this supplement and didn't find a sleeve pattern for models 20/21 so I had to use a sleeve from a different pattern for this dress. At least Lutterloh makes that part easy. 

Lastly, and perhaps most important of all, for this particular pattern there is no separate collar piece. I had to think this through very carefully to figure out how and in what order to attach the collar to the back bodice. When I was done enlarging this pattern the collar piece seemed too short to wrap around the top of the back bodice. Upon measuring this collar piece it looked like it would be about an inch short of meeting at the center back so I added a half inch in addition to my seam allowance at the center back of the collar. In retrospect I suppose it may have been intended to have a separated collar at the back but that's not how I envisioned it. I'm still not certain I attached it correctly since there is a very sharp corner at the inside of the shoulder that then wraps around to the back collar. It does work this way though so I'm satisfied with my construction decisions.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
I asked my aunt,who's 95 this year, what fabric she would have used to make this dress in 1950. She couldn't quite remember so she pulled out a vintage McCalls pattern and found that most of the fabrics suggested would have been cotton or silk. I chose a 100% cotton lawn in a print that just plain makes me happy. The fabric is a tiny bit sheer so I do need a slip underneath. Since the skirt is cut on the bias I believe almost any light to medium weight fabric could work for this dress, even a knit if that floats your boat.

Design Changes:
Other than my typical fitting alterations I didn't need to change anything about the overall design of this pattern. I did however shorten the skirt by three inches to update the look a little. This brought the skirt up to just below my knees.

Although not really a design change, I did put an invisible zipper in the side seam. If you look carefully at the pattern photo you'll see both the back bodice and the back skirt are cut on the fold. In these vintage patterns there is often no suggestion of a closure so the decision is left up to the user. Clearly this dress needs some sort of opening to get it over your head so this left me with the side seam option.

Closing Tips:
One of the nice features of Lutterloh patterns, whether vintage or current, is the possibility of switching sleeves, skirts or collars and such. If you have a copy of these vintage patterns and their corresponding vintage scale they are an absolutely worthwhile challenge. Just don't expect to whip through them with the ease with which we produce our more modern Lutterloh garments.

After this dress I think I'll move on to a quick, easy project. There's something so satisfying about finishing another project! 

Speaking of moving on, there should be a new Lutterloh supplement #297 coming out any day now. I usually check the German Lutterloh site for the earliest preview.
Ann in Calif.

Monday, April 27, 2015

The Spring Skirt Challenge CLOSED

Kat and Elizabeth are the winners of our random drawing!

If you're new to our blog then you've dropped in at an exciting time! 

It's time for us to reveal our entrants for our highly anticipated 

Spring Skirt Challenge!   
All fashion drawings Copyright Modeverlag Lutterloh
This is what Ruth has to say about her Lutterloh pattern:

My name is Ruth and I live in the UK.

The pattern that I've used is from the latest supplement 296 and the number is 177. The fabric is linen and was donated by a very dear friend.

I've only been using Lutterloh patterns since the start of this year and this is my fifth item - so far so good and your blog has been a fantastic help in answering my questions.

I was inspired to make this by a RTW skirt and used an embroidery machine to create the patterned fabric. The only problem was that the pattern did not include much overlap which was fine when standing up but made the skirt too revealing(!) when sitting down, so instead of folding the facing back on the underlay section I just turned a narrow hem.

I always use Janome or Elna machines as I work for the company. The embroidery motifs were stitched out on their fabulous MC15000.

Best wishes

Here's Kat's take on the challenge:

My name is Kat. I live in the USA.

The pattern number is 186 and the year is 2010. (This is one of my original and only set.)

I have only made three things with Lutterloh.  I plan on sewing more when I retire in September!

I liked this pattern because it was quick and simple. I did have a problem with the waistband but I figured that out! (I have a 48 inch hip measurement.)

I use a portable Brother sewing machine.

My sister and I each picked out the same material to make the same skirt because we each have the same top and needed something to match it. I don't know if she's going to be able to participate in the contest because she had hand surgery shortly after we purchased our material.

Thank you for inspiring me to sew!

Ann's Project for Skirt Month

Most of you know me as Ann in Calif. (USA)

I used pattern 162 from the current 2015 supplement #296. The fabric is similar to a very lightweight twill.
Jo Ann's Fabrics calls this cotton/poly blend their Easy Wash and Care fabric.

I've been using Lutterloh patterns since 2008 when I started looking for pattern drafting software.
The learning curve for Lutterloh patterns is so much less daunting.

The drawing out process for these patterns still fascinates me. This pattern didn't have any issues except for pockets that are so shallow as to be nearly useless. I will move the pleats in front closer to the center so I can enlarge the pocket bags another half inch at least.

The machines I use most are a Brother 4500D sewing/embroidery machine and a Babylock Enlighten serger.

Here is Marty's entry for Skirt Month

My name is Marty and I live in USA. Because we each have the same top and needed something to match it, my sister Kat and I chose the same 100% cotton material in sour apple to make our skirts.  

The pattern I picked is #224 from 2010, a slightly different pattern than the one Kat chose.  The reason I chose this super easy pattern was because it has a flap for the back slit, which sewed up great! I am 5'2" and my hip measurement is 104 cm. I used an older Singer Stylus, model 734.

I purchased the Lutterloh system three years ago, but I was a little intimidated by the pattern making method until now.

I have rheumatoid arthritis and am three weeks out from joint surgery on two fingers of my right hand and, except for cutting the material, creating the pattern and whipping up this skirt was a breeze!  I have only made two things with Lutterloh, both skirts, but I plan to get busy and increase my wardrobe this summer.
Thank you for inspiring me to sew!

Elizabeth's skirt for the challenge

Hello my name is Elizabeth, I am from the Chicago area in the United States. The pattern I chose came with my Fashion Kit. The pattern number is 246 from 2011.

 Since I am very new to sewing I don't know exactly what material I chose but it looks like linen. I got it at my local Hancock Fabric store from the clearance rack, it was a steal...yeah! This is only my second pattern, my first one was a knit fabric skirt but did not have the time to take the pictures to post it. 

What I like the most about the system is that if I make a mistake all I have to do is re-draw the pattern. I don't have to worry about cutting on the wrong line for my size. Another thing I like is I don't have to figure out what's my size when I go to the fabric store. Last time I bought a pattern they were closing the store before I was ready so I hurried and grabbed a couple of patterns just to come back the following day to return them because they were too small. I loved that I can draw it for my size. When I drew the pattern for my skirt, I measured my hip as instructed but the pattern did not seem to reflect my size, so I added a couple of inches to my waist ....yes, a couple of inches! So I cut my skirt and to my surprise when I tried it on it was a couple of inches too big on my waist. It was difficult for me to put it together because of the lack of instructions, nothing a couple of You tube videos couldn't handle. I wanted to keep my skirt girly so I chose to skip the buttons and I did tone on tone embroidery but m​​y pictures are not good I don't think you can see it. I used an invisible zipper on the back. 

The machine I used to make my skirt is a Singer Patchwork.

I have signed up for a True Fit class at my local Hancock store which is coming up on June 3,2015 ...I can hardly wait for it. 

Keep sewing!


Check out the original post with rules for the challenge here:

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

A Spring Skirt Challenge!

We told you we had a surprise in store and here it is!
We are declaring April "Skirt Month" on our Lutterloh blog! 

 The Skirt Challenge is now CLOSED
See the finished skirts on this post here.

  Two lucky winners will receive the newest Lutterloh supplement 
#296 pictured below! 
 (We do have a few others available if you already own this one.)

Skirts are fun, relatively easy, and come in so many styles to suit almost any figure.
Did you see Fonnell's post about skirts posted last week?

We hope this got your creative juices flowing because we are hosting a little non-competitive challenge right here on our blog. 
Come join in the fun! 

We invite you to sew along with us this month any Lutterloh skirt pattern you have in your collection. At the end of the month we'll all have a new skirt to wear!

Here are just a few rules we would like everyone to follow:
  • Make any skirt from any Lutterloh pattern you have. (The skirt can be for anyone.)
  • All participants will be entered into a drawing for a Lutterloh supplement.
  • Two different winners will be chosen by random drawing.
  • The project must be started and submitted between now and April 30, 2015.
  • Each entrant must submit a finished garment photo and answer a few questions about their Lutterloh experience.
  • All entries must be submitted in English.
  • Multiple entries allowed if made from a different pattern or for a different person. 
  • Winners will be announced the first week of May.

Once your skirt is complete please send a comment to this post with your e-mail address (we won't post these) so we can tell you where to send your photo. 
Along with your photo please submit your answers to these few questions about your Lutterloh experience:

  • What is your first name and country where you live?
  • What was the pattern you used (listed as year and number) and the fabric you used?
  • How long have you been using Lutterloh patterns or the number of patterns you've made?
  • What did you like about the pattern/process; did you have any difficulties?
  • What sewing machine do you use?

 We're hoping everyone can learn from this fun project so if you have questions or need help please send them as a comment to this post so everyone can read the answers.

Alright then Lutterloh enthusiasts, Start Your Engines! It's Skirt Month!!!

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

With a Twirl & a high heel swing we introduce SKIRTS

Easy to make, fun to wear,
 often a beginners first project, 
I bring you SKIRTS!

The fun in planning your wardrobe is that you can plan your artful silhouette!
Factor in your height, body shape, and fabric and you have the tools to choose
 the skirt that gives you the shape you desire

Silhouettes vary here are some common ones:

straight skirt (equal hip to hem)

Tapered skirt (fits snug at waist and hips tapers from hip to hem)

A-line skirt (hem circumference greater than hip circumference)

Gathered Skirt (equal waist, hip, hem, larger than needed with waist gathered)

Circular Skirt (wow lots of fabric based on 180, 270 and 360 degrees)

Pegged Skirt (hem circumference less than hip circumference)

Trumpet skirt
 (tapers below hip line and flares to hemline,
 the flare larger as hem circumference grows larger)

Gored Skirt is used in many of the styles above
(individual panels or gores that fit collectively around the waist 
gradually flare to hemline)

Lengths go from
 (mid-thigh or above)

(4" or more above knee)
 to knee

 to midi
 (between knee and mid -calf)
to Maxi
 ( Lower calf level) to long ( Ankle)

Avoid stopping a skirt at the largest parts of your leg!

If you have this what to do....
Small waist-fitted waistlines are best, enjoy all the rest!
large Wais
smooth front waistbands with elastic in the back are best, 
avoid too much fullness in waist and hips.
Short Waist
  use narrow waistband or faced waistlines
yokes and dropped waistlines help 
Avoid high and gathered waist treatment 

Long Waist
 choose wider waistbands, high-rise waistlines (unless you are low or full busted)
Mid-calf length is great Mini is not
Large Tummy
 gored, wrapped and A-line, not too much fullness through waist and hips, 
avoid pleats from waistline and fly-front closures.   Keep the front smooth, waistbands narrow.
Wide Hips
  let the fabric skim the hips, avoid Peg skirts that are too narrow near the knee,
avoid side pockets and bias cut skirts with clinging fabric.  Use lengthwise details 

Large Derriere and Waist
Use Gentle fullness and softly gathered skirts
Avoid pencil straight skirts and use A-line and Gored styles
Avoid flared trumpet or ruffles at lower edge they will make you look wider
Avoid yokes and dropped waistlines
handkerchief hems will draw the eye away from your heavy lower torso. 

Flat Derriere
back fullness, yokes or pocket will help in the back
Gathered and elasticized waistline and full, bias-cut skirts will 
add fullness, lucky you!

Long Legs
Great for Divided skirts, tiered and hemline ruffles
Mid-calf and longer styles are perfect
Avoid mini length you'll look out of balance
Short legs
Use Short Skirts you'll look more in balance
avoid short full styles you'll look dumpy.
you can test our mid-calf with heels and see 
which lengths look best on your short legs
Use slim, trim skirt styles and put your
skirt details close to the waistline.   

let's wear more skirts

All pictures are from my current Lutterloh pattern book & graciously given by the Lutterloh family 

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 287 Model#229 Winter 2012
Color Blocked Knit Dress

There are times in one's life that make sewing a necessity rather than a pleasure. I recently found myself in need of a funeral dress. This dress is the end result, modest and not too colorful.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
I don't usually buy princess seam garments because my full bust makes the whole rest of the garment too big. Fortunately Lutterloh allows you to use your own measurements to achieve a much more flattering fit. I wasn't sure if the princess lines would fall in the right place so I decided to make a test garment from this pattern. Normally I would sew a knit garment with no seam allowances to compensate for the stretch of the fabric but my test fabric only had a little stretch. I decided to use just 1/4" seam allowances for the test.

For the test fabric the extra seam allowance worked just fine. Since the bust area was the only one in question this shortened tunic length was enough for a successful test. Now I have another "run around after the gym" top.

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
The dress is made from a heavier cotton/poly/lycra fabric that Jo Ann's Fabrics refers to as "jeggings" fabric. The tunic is from a ponte knit with a little crosswise stretch and no lengthwise stretch. As long as you don't mind a zipper closure a fabric with just a little stretch should do for this pattern.

Design Changes:
Other than applying my own personal alterations the only changes I made were to use satin edge elastic instead of neck facings and eliminate the side zipper in both garments. Both fabrics were stretchy enough to allow for easy on and off without them.
Closing Tips: 
This pattern went together remarkably well. It may have to do with the sturdier knits I used. I'm not sure I would try this one with a thinner or clingier fabric. Since I managed to eek out the main body of this dress from 1 yard of fabric I'll keep this one around to use up remnants.

Here's hoping you all get in some quality sewing time,

Ann in Calif.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Paper pattern fiting, this is a must watch video!

I've always been fond of the products and information
 I've gotten from Palmer/Pletsch

Melissa Watson has online this great video
on Paper fitting.  

The Lutterloh patterns are prefect for a paper fit!

If this link won't work for you go to youtube 
Put this in the search bar. 
Learn to Fit with Melissa Watson: McCall's M6989 Dress

The other really great thing in this 30 minute video 
is she does a princess line large bust 
adjustment in the video, one of the more complex adjustment.
You won't have the great Palmer/Pleitch adjustment lines
However you can add them yourself easily.