Thursday, September 1, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 301 - Model #154 - Summer 2016
 Classic Long Blouse (turned shirt dress)

While I wait for my newest Supplement #302 to arrive I thought I'd share with you what I made from the last supplement. It's funny, right before this supplement arrived in my mailbox I had a dream I was making a shirt dress out of light colored chambray. When I saw this style in supp. 301 I knew it was meant to be!

Pattern Drafting Hints: 
The letters next to the pattern number indicate this is a blouse but I just couldn't imagine wearing a blouse this long. My intention all along was to belt it for a dress. Just to get an idea of how roomy this "blouse" really is here is a photo without the belt.
It really is as loose as it appears in the drawing. Oh, and the sides really are cut very high to create that classic shirt tail hem. There are nice long shaping darts in the back but without a belt I feel like this should have more shape in the front too. I suppose it depends on how you want to style it.

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
Unfortunately I could not find the light colored chambray I was hoping for at my fabric store. I ended up using a lovely Nicole Miller fabric in a dreamy 100% Lyocell fabrication. Lyocell is actually a type of rayon so the fabric care recommendations are very similar. This fabric does feel just a little heavier than challis. I would imagine almost any lightweight woven fabric would do for this blouse.

Design Changes: 
As you can see I left the sleeves and pocket off of this blouse. If I had put sleeves on it I knew I wouldn't be able to wear it until the weather cooled. Leaving the sleeves off lead me to another design change that wasn't expected. The arm holes had such a huge gaping issue that I had to put a fitting dart in from the arm hole to the bust. Normally this would require reshaping the sleeve too but since I didn't have any this was not an issue. The pocket I felt would draw too much attention to my bust and I would never use it so why bother? So, other than my usual bust and length alterations this pattern went together easy, peasy. 

Closing Hints: 
I have to say I like this blouse well enough but I'm afraid it isn't the shirt dress of my dreams. I'll be on the lookout for another pattern with more shaping and perhaps a yoke at the top. Now that the weather should be getting cooler I suppose I may be over the whole shirt dress thing by next Summer anyway, we'll see. 

So, am I the only one who has dreams of sewing? Feel free to leave your comments below.

Happy sewing to all,
Ann in Calif.     

Sunday, August 7, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 289 - Model#267 - Summer 2013
 Chevron Bias Cut Skirt

This skirt is a maxi length, knit version of the original pattern. I wanted an easy pull on skirt and found the chevron pattern really appealing for just a little twist. I felt head to toe chevron stripes would be a little overwhelming so I opted to skip the matching top.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern is really simple to enlarge to your personal size however laying it out on fabric is a little fussy. Do make sure to cut each of the four panels in a single layer or it will be nearly impossible to get the stripes to match. If you lay the pattern pieces out very carefully you can get both the back and front stripes to match and even the sides. I cut one front piece and one back piece on the right side of the fabric and then laid each one down, right sides together, to cut the opposite side. This way I was able to pin each stripe to make sure they didn't shift while cutting the alternating side.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although the pattern does not call for it I used a knit fabric for this skirt. The striped rib knit I used is lightweight and perhaps not the best choice for this pattern. Don't get me wrong, I love the end result but getting there was no walk in the park. Because of it's lightweight nature my fabric was shifty and easily stretched out of shape. Getting the stripes lined up was like wrangling salamanders. If I were to make this skirt again I would be sure to use a heavier weight, good quality knit that I was certain was printed on grain. Of course, as long as you made this skirt with the zipper that was intended you could make it with nearly any fabric with at least a little drape. The bias cut will give you even more movement so many fabrics would be suitable.

Design Changes:
From the photo you can see that my version is only a nod to the original pattern. I was after the basic shape and cool chevron design of this pattern and that's exactly what I got. To make this pattern into a maxi length I started with measuring the drawn pattern and then compared it to the finished length I wanted. I needed to add at least 15 inches just to reach my ankles but I didn't want to widen the hem. The photo below is my pattern after adding the necessary length.
You'll see that I split the pattern horizontally at the cross mark as the Lutterloh company suggests. Before cutting it apart to add paper I also drew a vertical line from top to bottom so I could be sure to keep it straight once all the extra paper was added. 

The other major design change was to substitute a stretchy, fold over, yoga type waistband for the original waistband facings. 
If you want to replicate this type of waistband you can use the tutorial found here. Don't worry that the tutorial appears to be for a child's skirt. The math works fine for adults too. Just make sure that your waistband fabric contains a good percentage of spandex or Lycra. I once made one from a stretchy interlock but once it stretched out the skirt started to sag and wouldn't recover until washed again.

This skirt is as comfortable as it is cute! I could see myself making a bunch more of these in different stripes, prints or even solids. The knit fabric makes it casual but if you wanted to put the zipper in with facings there's no reason it couldn't be dressed up with a silky or similarly drapey fabric.

Since we're approaching the middle of August I'd like to remind you to keep an eye out for the newest Lutterloh supplement #302 due out any day now. It usually shows up on the German Lutterloh site first here but feel free to look for it on the Lutterloh site in your home country.

So folks, keep sewing with those Lutterloh patterns and be sure to use your imagination to turn them into any style your little heart desires.

Happy sewing from,
Ann in Calif.    

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Vintage Lutterloh Gallery!

So Folks, Our Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial has concluded. 
We would like to present the work of our talented followers below.
(Listed in the order received) 
1. First name and country where you live.
Susan, Mexico
2. What appealed to you about this vintage pattern?
I like the gathered sleeve for airflow and to accommodate my large biceps. The yoke offers the opportunity to mix fabrics and highlight details. As soon as I saw this, I knew that I would mix the crocheted lace and the dotted cotton.
3. What is your favorite period of vintage Lutterloh fashions? 
I am not a big "vintage" fan. And I take exception to the 80s being vintage! But I have a special fondness for the 80s patterns because I  started my Lutterloh journey in the 80s. I mixed and matched pattern pieces and made the same dresses for my daughter and me. But not matching fabrics, that would have been so uncool!
 1. First name and country where you live.

Susan Mexico
2. What appealed to you about this vintage pattern?
I liked the short, full sleeves, the collar and the back shoulder darts. Because of those back shoulder darts, I am planning to use this as a sloper for sleeveless woven tops.
3. What is your favorite period of vintage Lutterloh fashions?  
I am still fiddling around with "vintage" Lutterloh. I like 60s, 70s,80s.
I also like the look of the 30s, but they are very complicated which means a lot of time cutting marking and testing!
 1. First name and country where you live.
Ann in Calif. - U.S.A.
 2. What appealed to you about this vintage pattern?
My brother has finally worn through our Dad's shirts from the sixties. I figured the best way to replicate one would be to use a sixties pattern. This looks very much like one of Dad's shirts and my brother is delighted. I did make an artistic decision to change the top-stitching a little and it makes this shirt now a true one of a kind.
3. What is your favorite period of vintage Lutterloh fashions?
I prefer the Lutterloh patterns of the 1940s. I have some truly fantastic photos of my mother and her sisters in these fashions! 
 1. First name and country where you live.
 My name is Ruth and I come from Birmingham in the UK.
 2. What appealed to you about this vintage pattern?
 I love the collar/tie, and pockets on this 1950s vintage dress and think it would be great to wear for work. It is really comfortable and can be cinched in with a belt to get a look more akin to the model's version (if you happen to have an 18" waist!).
3. What is your favorite period of vintage Lutterloh fashions?
The 1950s are my favourite vintage Lutterloh patterns. I love the silhouettes, the elegant cuts and the feminine details. The designs are so flattering and the illustrations are wonderful with a matching array of hats, gloves, belts and bags. I also think the classic shapes make them very wearable today and can't wait to make some more items to wear alongside designs from the current Lutterloh supplements. 

Thank you ladies so much for participating in our 
Strictly Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial!

Isn't it nice to have a new garment to wear knowing you put your heart into it?
Wear it with pride!

Keep on sewing those Lutterloh patterns, new and old, and feel free to contact us about showcasing your Lutterloh fashions here on the blog.

Fonnell and Ann   

Thursday, June 30, 2016

Vintage Lutterloh Progress

  I'm about half way done with my brother's shirt and I thought I would give you an update on my progress. 

Here is a pic of the front pattern piece for the shirt pictured above.

If you look at the facing suggestion you'll see that it is intended to have two pieces that make up the facing. The solid lines suggest cutting lines and the dashed lines suggest a fold. This would leave me with a seam in the facing that just seems strange to me. I decided that a full extended facing would make much more sense. 

Here is how I created a new facing.
With the extended portion of the facing folded back I taped another piece of paper with a clean straight edge under the existing facing. I taped where the seam would have been and also along the cut edge and folded the tape to the back. Next I drew in the curve at the top of the facing and traced the curve at the neckline and shoulder so they would match. 

I cut along all my traced lines and this is what my facing looks like now.
The tape holds the paper on where there would have been seams and I now have one continuous full extended facing. 
The new facing made this much easier to sew as well as eliminating that pesky seam in the facing. 
I still have buttons, button holes, hem and top-stitching to complete but at least the main construction is done. 
How is everyone else coming along with their vintage Lutterloh projects? 

Our Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial has concluded
See the final projects in our Gallery post here. 

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Our Vintage sewing projects

This will be my favorite Sewcial.  

I want to start working right away so I can plan 
each detail of my sewing. 
I know I will have to do a large bust adjustment
 I do not have a waist so I have to plan to add for any darts
that go through my waist area.  
My shoulders are small and they slant
 so some shoulder work is something
 I always check (see my posting on shoulders) 

I have three to choose from
I need some Capri's it's gotten so hot,
Not easy to find pants for women in the vintage patterns.

All rights to the drawings belong to the Lutterloh family

So what will it be The vest type top?  The cuffed Capri
or the white top and chevron shirt? 

It takes a bit of looking to find the correct
patterns in the vintage patterns, the older they
are the more places the outfits end up.  
You have to be sure you have
all the parts of any outfit.  

Want to help me choose?
Here's what Ann is working on

I have noticed a decided dearth in Lutterloh patterns made up for men so I'm sewing for my brother this time around. I let him pick the pattern because I do want him to actually wear this shirt after all.  

My brother has finally worn through our father's shirts from the sixties. 
What better way to replace them than actually using a sixties pattern?! 
He has already requested a design change but it's only to the pockets so I agreed. 
I'm just waiting for the fabric to arrive!

Please stay tuned for more on sewing vintage Lutterloh Patterns.  

Monday, May 30, 2016

A Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial!

 to our latest Lutterloh Sewcial!
This one will be strictly Vintage so please read on

Our Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial has concluded
See the final results in the Gallery post here.

Like many others, Fonnell and I got started with our Lutterloh collections from eBay. Now it seems there are so many other auction sites and artists collectives like Etsy that the vintage Lutterloh patterns are not that difficult to find anymore. With the release of Lutterloh's newest supplement #301 even those not willing or able to shell out for auction prices can get a taste of the beautiful vintage patterns. It is with this availability in mind that we've decided it's high time to invite our readers to "show us your stuff!"  

This Sewcial is not a contest. There will be no prize awarded. We just want to give all the vintage Lutterloh enthusiasts a place to showcase their work and share with the world the true potential of this versatile system. So, without further ado we would like to announce our next 
Strictly Vintage Lutterloh Sewcial.

Here are just a few points to help things run smoothly:
  1. Items sewn must be started and finished between June 1st to July 10th, 2016.
  2. Pick any Lutterloh pattern you own dated from 1935 to 1980. If you don't own any vintage Lutterloh consider buying the newest Supplement #301 to use the last patterns #159-160.
  3. Your pattern can be sewn for any person willing to model it for a completed photo. 
  4. Starting June 1st, please send a message to this post stating your intent to join that includes an era and item you intend to sew.
  5. When your item is complete please send a message to this post that includes your e-mail address. We will not publish these messages. We will then send you an e-mail where you can send your completed photo along with a short survey.
  6. Your item must be completed and photo submitted by noon on July 10th to be included in our Gallery post at the conclusion of our Sewcial.  
Now if vintage really isn't your thing or you just can't join in right now don't worry. We have another sew along in the works for later that everyone can join in. 

For now, let's get out those Lutterloh patterns and find something fabulous!

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Vintage is our favorite

No where
 in any pattern company book 
will you find so many 
vintage patterns!

One of my first Lutterloh purchases was from an estate sale.
  It was a gold box full of 1950's & 1960's supplements. 
I was very new to Lutterloh patterns, in that box a world of sewing was 
open to the previous owner and now myself!  There were ball gowns,
baby nappies, robes, aprons, men's shirts, kids play clothes, women's dresses, on
and on the patterns went.

Clearly Lutteloh was a system designed to dress a whole household, a family!
The box came from Brazil, the women had used many of the patterns,
 her notes still on the pages captured in time.  
I felt she left a window into a vintage moment.

Every photo in my collage is a Lutterloh pattern from another time.

I own all of these pattern books.  
Patterns for every aspect of life.

There is a long history in Lutterloh patterns.  
Collected in each book pieces of an era.  
My greatest pleasure is spending an evening
Looking at the vintage Lutterloh pattern books!

Monday, May 16, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 300 - Model #91 - Spring 2016
Very Loose Pullover Dress

This is my version of model #91 from the current supplement. I have to say I am less than pleased with the outcome. Granted I was trying to use a knit for this pattern but if it weren't for the belt this dress would be positively shapeless.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
The enlarging of this pattern was easy enough. In fact, except for the neckline, the front and the back pattern pieces were exactly the same. If you wanted to save some time you really could just draw the back piece and then use it again for the front by just cutting the neckline into your desired "V" depth.
I was surprised at how deep the armholes were intended for this dress. When I constructed it according to the symbols on the pattern this is where the armholes ended up, nearly cut to the waist.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although it was not indicated, I used a lightweight interlock for this dress. This is where I think I went wrong. What can I say, this fabric has so much going for it. It's striped, it's blue, I have an entire bolt of it and did I mention it was free! You may be seeing a lot more of this fabric in future projects. 
Really I think this pattern was intended to be made up in a lightweight silky type fabric like crepe de chine, charmeuse or perhaps rayon challis.

Design Changes:
I did raise the neckline about 1 inch and substituted an overlapped band instead of neckline facings. I didn't add any seam allowances because I knew this was going to be very roomy already. For perspective, drawing the pattern out at my usual 102 cm bust and hip size I ended up with a dress with a 65 inch circumference! In the photos above I haven't hemmed either the bottom or the armholes, I knew I wouldn't wear this dress as is.

Since I had already used 2 1/2 yards of fabric and applied the neckband I decided  to refashion this disaster into something I could wear. I laid the dress folded down the center, inside out, and arranged my favorite T-shirt dress pattern over the top. I used my trusty Lutterloh hip curve and Chaco Liner to draw in a less exaggerated kimono sleeve and cut all the layers at once with my sharpest shears. Now this was something I could work with!

Once I sewed up the side seams again and turned up all the hems this is what I ended up with.
Fashion disaster saved!

Closing Hints:
When my son took the first photos he told me the dress looked "fine". My thought was, sure if I wanted a swim cover up. Perhaps on a more rectangular figure, in the right fabric, this dress might look fabulous. I think I will move on to another pattern and chalk this one up to experience.

Live and learn and keep sewing,

Ann in Calif.

Friday, May 13, 2016

Vintage Lutterloh Reprint

Hey folks, I was just going to peruse the German Lutterloh site for inspiration when I noticed that the newest Supplement #301 is already available. I'm sure many of you will be delighted to see that at the end of the supplement they have reprinted one page from a vintage supplement. I have written Marcus Lutterloh in Germany to ask if this is strictly a reprint or if the pattern has been updated with the modern ladies figure in mind. I will update this post when I get his answer but in the mean time I've included a link below so you can preview the new supplement too.

Here is a quote from Marcus Lutterloh's e-mail reply:

"because of the great demand, we will once in a while publish some vintage  models and patterns in the future supplements. The pattern has been updated with the modern ladies figure!"

Enjoy the preview,

Ann in Calif.

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 300 - Model #81 - Spring 2016
Loose Crossover Blouse

I have a beach vacation coming up soon so I decided I needed a lightweight blouse to dress up my "resort casual" wardrobe. The very first pattern of Supplement 300 called to me as soon as I laid eyes on it. Once I spotted the chiffon print buried in my stash I knew they were meant to be together. 

Pattern Drafting Hints: 
The first thing I noticed about this pattern is that there is no real closure for this blouse. There is only a narrow elastic band at around hip level that holds the front pieces together so this turns out to be a pullover style. I did find the sleeves, once enlarged, were not going to give me enough room. I have heard this may be a recurring theme with recent Lutterloh patterns so you may want to check the sleeve width against your own arm measurement to be sure. 

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
The chiffon print I used for this blouse is an everyday polyester fabric from the local chain fabric store. This blouse definitely needs to be sewn out of fabric with some drape to it so chiffon certainly fit the bill. Perhaps next time I might try a tissue weight knit or perhaps a lightweight gauze fabric.

Because I knew I was working with a challenging fabric I took some precautions before I started. I first stabilized the entire piece of fabric by soaking it in a solution of a half yard of water soluble stabilizer dissolved in one quart of water. I squeezed out the excess water, without rinsing, before tumbling the fabric in the dryer. Once dry the fabric had a lot more body than its original state. This made it much less shifty and easier to cut. Next I applied fusible knit interfacing to the collar and front crossover pieces. The knit interfacing turned out to be just enough support for creasing without adding stiffness.

Design Changes: 
I'll admit I was tempted to make that collar and lapel piece in a solid navy but I didn't want to end up with just a small piece of the print left. So, other than widening the sleeves and a few other personal alterations for fit there were no changes to this pattern. I knew that the elastic at the hip would not be enough to keep this blouse closed over my ample bust so I planned all along to wear a camisole under it.
Closing Hints:    
Every once in a while I'm tempted to buy a fabric that I know will be difficult to work with. However with a little preparation and careful attention to details it can all be worth it in the end. This blouse was not a quick sew by any means. Some of this was due to procrastination but the end result was my reward. My next project will likely be a nice Summer dress just to lighten my mood. I'll think about it while I'm away.

Here's hoping you make some time to sew for yourself.
Happy Sewing,

Ann in Calif.