Saturday, September 25, 2021
Monday, August 30, 2021
Supplement 321 - Model#84 - Summer 2021
Hi there folks, it's still hot as Hades here in California so I thought I would make one more pair of shorts to get me through the Summer. I knew when I saw this pattern that it would be one I should try.
The pattern for these shorts is straight forward but I did find an oddity when comparing the pattern to the fashion drawing.
Above is the fashion drawing for the back next to the actual back pattern. In the fashion drawing the yoke is taller at the center and narrower at the side seams, the actual pattern is the opposite. I did find that the pattern, once enlarged, is indeed shaped like the pattern drawing not the fashion drawing. There is no way you'll get a "V" shaped yoke out of this pattern piece.
Another point to note about the pattern is that the shaped waistband is supposed to be cut on the bias. See how the grainline arrow is at a 45 degree angle to the center back? This makes the waistband easier to curve but can also leave you with a stretched out waistband without some stabilization at the seam. I used 1/4 inch twill tape in the seam where the waist joins the yoke as a precaution.
This pattern is really a good basic pattern for straight leg shorts. I made just a couple of changes to suit my preferences. First I left off the belt loops because I knew I wouldn't wear a belt with these. Next was to elongate the front pocket bags. I find that the pockets on most recent Lutterloh patterns are just too shallow to be useful for me.
The photo above shows the front pocket pattern drawn according to the dots. The red line indicates where the original pattern would have ended. This pocket allows for about half of your hand to fit and ends at about the bottom of the crotch, not good if you want to actually carry anything in your pockets. I extended the depth of the pocket by almost three inches so now it ends below the crotch.
The knit symbol on this pattern would suggest that you can
use stretch fabric for these shorts. I wanted to use up some of my 100%
cotton corduroy so I used generous seam allowances when cutting the
fabric. Since corduroy has a tendency to stretch on it's own, it turns
out I didn't need those larger seam allowances. I sewed the entire
pattern on the regular sewing line without needing any extra.
Sunday, June 6, 2021
Supplement 320 - Model #47 - Spring 2021
Monday, May 10, 2021
The two symbols circled above are to indicate that the top of the lower bodice and the waistline are at right angles or 90° to the center front. The same is true for the back piece. The 45° symbol in the oval is to tell you that the lower bodice pieces should be cut on the true bias or at a 45° angle to the selvage. The arrow is to point out that the center front on the top bodice piece is NOT cut on the fold but is rather a seam where you need to add seam allowance.
Saturday, April 10, 2021
Saturday, February 20, 2021
Hello sewing friends. I've been sewing up some short dresses in preparation for Spring in California. Around Christmas time I ran across a website for some nice knit dresses called Karina dresses (no affiliation) that I felt I just had to replicate. One of the features of these dresses is that they almost all have pockets. Since I like to wear short dresses over leggings I need to build pockets into the dresses.
You may notice that the pattern I used is for the Full Figure size range. My measurements don't actually reach the Full Figure range but by moving the pin in the scale down by 4 dots I can still draw out a pattern that works just great. If you'd like further information on using the Full Figure patterns for an average sized body then check out the link near the bottom of the right side bar titled "Using full figure patterns for smaller sizes"
I did find one omission in this pattern that is worth mentioning. Normally Lutterloh patterns have a mark to denote center front with a "VM" even on a surplice bodice. You can see in the photo below that this pattern is missing that marking.
This isn't a deal breaker but you will need to mark the center front on your pattern when you're paper fitting it though. You can see that the bottom of the front bodice is drawn in a strange jagged configuration but just trust the system and you will find that, once the darts are sewn, you end up with a nice smooth piece all ready to attach to the skirt.
Thursday, January 7, 2021
Hello fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts, I know it's been quite a while since I've posted a new review. Like most sewists I've been making masks and trying to be useful but everyone needs a break now and again. A quick skirt in a cheerful print is always a nice pick-me-up though.
I'm not certain if this pattern is actually 3/4 of a circle. It's definitely not a full circle but it's also more than a half circle. My photo was taken while I was spinning so you could see the fullness.
On the pattern the hem is one swooping curve from the center front/back to the side seam so you'll want to be careful while connecting those dots. The straight waistband is just a suggested length so you'll need to adjust it according to your actual waist measurement. I found that the suggested width for the waistband didn't turn out quite as wide as the fashion drawing appears but that's fine with me. My wide belt covers most of it anyway.
My skirt is made up in a linen look blend that has great movement but is still lightweight. The blend is nearly 50% Lyocel with linen, rayon and cotton in the fabric content. It washes and irons nicely for a skirt that can be dressed up or down depending on the top and accessories. The large checks can't match up perfectly on the side seams but they do form interesting diamonds on the sides so I can overlook it.
This skirt would probably work fine in a stable knit too as long as you interfaced the zipper openings sufficiently. I considered making it in a buffalo plaid flannel for winter but I haven't started it yet and Spring seems right around the corner.
Other than adjusting the waistband for my actual measurement the only design change was to add POCKETS. I used a pocket piece from another pattern that had straight side seams. My pockets are a teensy bit low because I wanted them to start just below the side zipper. Low pockets are better than no pockets IMHO. Side seam pockets are so easy to add I just couldn't see making this skirt without them.
If you love a full skirt this is a pattern for you! The full, sweeping hem draws out beautifully and the waistband is easily adjusted to any length or width. I'll keep this pattern around for any time I need a quick sew for a fresh look.
Thanks to Frank Lutterloh my patterns are all up to date so I'll do my best to post reviews more regularly. Here's hoping you're all safe and well.
Happy Sewing Everyone,
Ann in Calif.
Tuesday, March 3, 2020
Tuesday, July 2, 2019
Saturday, March 30, 2019
pattern 229 from Supp. 287
Combining the Patterns:
Now this may sound like more trouble than it's worth but bear with me and you'll see it's not that complicated. The only real challenge was to combine the top of the shirt with the skirt of the dress pattern. You'll see in my photos below that it's not really a challenge after all.