Thursday, August 10, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 305 - Model #237 - Summer 2017
Swimsuit Cover-Up/ Topper

Although this pattern is modeled as a short swimsuit cover-up in the newest supplement I knew I would lengthen it to wear as a lightweight blouse for a cool Summer top layer. The pants in the right picture are also from supp. #305. You can read that review here.

Pattern Drafting Hints:   
The basic shape of this pattern is loosely fitted from the shoulders to the bottom of the armsceye and then flares gracefully to the bottom. Because of the very loose shape, and to save time, I decided to draw the whole pattern using my high bust measurement to fit the shoulders. The contrast bands on my topper are achieved by cutting the pattern apart at the facing lines. I'll detail this further in the design changes below.

Fabric Used/Suggested:    
My version of the pattern is made up in a black and white, rose print, polyester chiffon. The contrast bands are interfaced with a knit interfacing for a little extra weight and stability. Realistically this pattern could be made up in almost any fabric that has enough drape to keep it from standing away from the body. I can imagine this garment in lace, gauze, burnout velvet, knit or even loosely woven rayon or cotton. If your fabric choice is not terribly drapey you might consider adding some weight to the hem with a beaded or ruffled trim.

Design Changes: 
The first design change was to lengthen the entire pattern, front, back and sleeves, by four inches at the cross mark, per the Lutterloh instructions. As I mentioned above, my next design change was to convert the facings into a contrast band. The photo below, on the left, has arrows that point to where I cut the facings from the main pattern.

The photo on the right shows an additional four inches that I added to the back by reshaping the hem to form a more exaggerated shirttail shape. The contrast band on the sleeves is just a three inch wide band, folded, and attached to the sleeve hem. Although it's not indicated on the diagram, I cut my back pattern on the fold because I didn't want the seam to interrupt the lovely floral pattern of my chiffon.

Closing Hints:  
In sheer chiffon this might not make a very effective swimsuit cover but I love it as a breezy Summer top layer! I do prefer this in the longer length for me. My first paper fitting revealed that the pattern would hit right at crotch level just as shown on the model. In any length you prefer I would wholeheartedly recommend this pattern! 

With Summer coming to a close I'd like to remind you that the Autumn supplement #306 is now available for preview. It usually shows up for preview first on the German Lutterloh site here:  

We appreciate your comments and are happy to answer any questions you have about this wonderful pattern system. Happy sewing everyone!

Ann in Calif.   

Sunday, August 6, 2017

Guest posting by Bernice

Here I am to present my two outfits made out of 1 pattern (#259-2013)


A raglan top:

This top was chosen because of the raglan sleeve. When I was young we stitched clothes with Magyar sleeves, sleeveless, normal shirt sleeve and the puff sleeve which was simpler and for economical reasons.  Now that I'm sewing on my own for myself and friends I like to try something new.  The shirt sleeve needs more accuracy of starting from the shoulder line whereas the raglan sleeve starts from the neck needs a dart, a few gathers or plain if it is a stretch fabric.  This pattern gives me a perfect fit and I'm sure I'll use it for all my future raglan sleeve patterns.


Design changes in the original pattern:

I wanted to have a different neckline than what the pattern had so:

1-I raised the front neckline by an inch
2-I drew 6 lines from the neckline to the bust line
3-I added 1 inch to the front of the raglan sleeve to correspond with my front neckline.

Then I slit the neckline along the 6 lines I drew, closed the side dart and opened it along the 6 lines.  I placed the paper patterns on the fabric and cut them out.  I stitched 6 darts tapering them from the neckline to the bust line.  I joined the sleeves and stitched the side seams.  A small band was added to the neck.  Since hte collar was a bit loose I stitched 3 rows of elastic on the band.

A Harry Potter Cape

The same pattern that was drafted for my top was used to make a Harry Potter cape.  My colleague's daughter, Sara was invited to a birthday party and the theme was Harry Potter.  So her mother needed a cape for her daughter within a week.  Since I had this pattern already drafted I just needed 2 measurements, the full length and the sleeve length.  So I adjusted the pattern for the length of the cape and the sleeves giving them the necessary shapes. I put a dart in the crown of the sleeves to give it a perfect fit.  I added the hood to the neckline and was able to finish the cape for the birthday party.  It is quite large for her so she can wear it over her clothes like a winter coat and will last her for many more years to come.


Thank you Bernice for this fun look at what can be done with our pattern books!! You surely do enjoy creating.  Can't wait to see what you are planning next.