Friday, September 29, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive! - FASHION FLASHBACK

Supplement 142 - Model #60 - Autumn 1976
Knit Top or Dress 

I'll be the first to admit that this is not my favorite knit dress for this year. Yes, the dress is comfortable but is that really enough? I suspect that the error is likely mine in matching fabric to pattern. There's just not enough shape going on for a knit dress for me. 

Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern didn't have any flaws in drafting so it went together well. I did appreciate the small tucks in the front of the dress to help control some of the extra fabric. 
It was simple to just pinch out some fabric at the waist and then transfer the marks to the wrong side of the fabric to sew the tucks. The back does not indicate any tucks but with the help of a sewing partner or a dress form you could certainly put a couple in back too.
Fabric Used/ Suggested:
My fabric choice is likely where I went wrong with this dress. The cotton blend interlock that I used has great stretch but only on the crosswise direction. It's actually pretty stable on the lengthwise grain and this is where I could have used a little more give. This pattern is indeed intended for a stretch fabric but I believe a fabric with both length and crosswise stretch is needed to get the right shape for this dress. If you need to leave extra ease to get this dress over your shoulders than it isn't going to be as form fitting as the drawing suggests.  
Design Changes:
I did make a couple design changes to this dress, the first being to shorten it to knee length. The other more obvious change was to the neckline. This pattern does suggest a zipper in the back just to the depth of the yolk. Perhaps if I'd stuck with a back zipper and extended it into the dress I could have ended up with a more shapely silhouette. What I really wanted was some more interest in the front neckline so I omitted the zipper and added a split facing to the center front yolk. Well, at least the facing for the split front worked really well so this project wasn't a complete waste. 
Closing Hints:
Oh well, live and learn. I am determined to find the right pattern for this gifted fabric. It is of good quality and washes well too. I'm sure there's a perfect pattern in my Lutterloh books for this fabric somewhere. 
I hope you're having better luck with your sewing lately. On to Supplement #306 for me!
Happy Sewing All,
Ann in Calif.