Thursday, February 1, 2024

My Favorite Blouse

 Supplement 267 - Model #48 - 2007 
Collarless Blouse converted to front button style

   Hello again Lutterloh fans. I'll be taking a vacation soon to warm, sunny, southern California so I was looking through my closet and realized these blouses would be perfect. These aren't new but I thought I would share how I converted this pattern to a front button style instead of the intended side zipper opening.
 
The Pattern:
    The original pattern suggests a side zipper opening with the front pieces cut on the fold. I admit I have never made this blouse in its original form. From the first time I saw it I knew I would alter it. Below is a pic of the front pattern pieces which are drawn as one and then cut apart into upper and lower bodice. 
   You can see the symbol for a side zipper on the right of the photo. The red line indicates where I extended the neckline and center front by 3/4 of an inch. This allowed me to add a button placket for 5/8 inch buttons. I cut my 2 inch wide facing before I cut the top and bottom apart thus avoiding the extra bulk where the seams would meet. The blue line is a rough drawing of how I shaped the front facing. The back neck facing was cut at the same width. After my initial test of this pattern I felt the lower front bodice could use a little more shaping so I sewed a small dart in the lower bodice just under the bust gathers indicated by the green lines. You can see that first version on Sewing Pattern Review here.
 
Style Changes:
    I decided to cut the puff sleeve much shorter for the white version and leave the sleeves off altogether for the orange version. The arm hole is plenty high enough to wear this as a sleeveless blouse. Rather than arm hole facings I bound the arm holes of the orange blouse with bias tape. 
   Model #46 shows this blouse with a tie collar. Instead, to my white blouse, I added a lace collar which I embroidered onto 2 layers of organza. Both models of this pattern have a back bodice cut in one piece with long double ended darts for waist shaping. This allows for waist shaping for any figure since you can make them wider or narrower to your preference.
 
Fabrics:
     So far I have made this blouse in a variety of fabrics. The blouses in the photo are made up in a white striped seersucker and an orange/red quilting cotton. I have also made this in lightweight flannel and a slightly sheer Swiss dot. Obviously the lighter the fabric the sooner the blouse wore out. For a dressier look a silky fabric would work too. This could even be made in a stable knit with some adjustments for stretch. 
 
Conclusion:
    What makes this my favorite blouse pattern is that it can be made in so many fabrics. With a little imagination for the collar, sleeve and embellishment variations, you too can have a wardrobe of blouses in your closet. Since I have the bodice fitted to my liking I may even experiment with cutting the back piece at the same level as the front so a flowy, gathered bottom portion could be added. I do love the versatility of a well fitted pattern.
   I would strongly encourage you to think outside the box with your Lutterloh patterns. Sometimes with just a little tweaking you can end up with your very own favorite pattern.
 
I hope the new year is bringing you time to sew with your Lutterloh patterns.
Happy sewing everyone,
 
Ann in Calif.