Supplement 304 - Model #23&24 - Spring 2017
Knit Dresses - Full Figure
Hello sewing friends. I've been sewing up some short dresses in preparation for Spring in California. Around Christmas time I ran across a website for some nice knit dresses called Karina dresses (no affiliation) that I felt I just had to replicate. One of the features of these dresses is that they almost all have pockets. Since I like to wear short dresses over leggings I need to build pockets into the dresses.
You may notice that the pattern I used is for the Full Figure size range. My measurements don't actually reach the Full Figure range but by moving the pin in the scale down by 4 dots I can still draw out a pattern that works just great. If you'd like further information on using the Full Figure patterns for an average sized body then check out the link near the bottom of the right side bar titled "Using full figure patterns for smaller sizes"
Pattern Hints:
I did find
one omission in this pattern that is worth mentioning. Normally
Lutterloh patterns have a mark to denote center front with a "VM" even
on a surplice bodice. You can see in the photo below that this pattern
is missing that marking.
This isn't a deal breaker but you will need to mark the center front on your pattern when you're paper fitting it though. You can see that the bottom of the front bodice is drawn in a strange jagged configuration but just trust the system and you will find that, once the darts are sewn, you end up with a nice smooth piece all ready to attach to the skirt.
I did also need to lengthen the bodice, front and back, by half an inch to get the waist seam to fall where it appears on the fashion drawing. This was in addition to the length I always add to my bodices.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Both of my dresses are made up in knit fabrics. The sleeveless version is a very stretchy rayon/spandex knit and the one with sleeves is a ponte. They both worked fine although I do like the stretchier knit better. I didn't put a zipper in either one but I'm sure you would need a zipper if using stretch woven. For the pocket bags I used swimsuit lining so the pockets wouldn't cling to the dress or my leggings.
Design Changes:
The pattern photo above shows that a full front facing is suggested. Since my dresses are intended to be casual I opted for skipping the facings altogether and instead used rib knit bands. I also shortened the skirt of these dresses by 4 inches for more of a tunic length. I did draw the pattern at full length in case I'd like a knee length dress later. It was easy enough to fold out the 4 inches so I could still use the nicely shaped hem already drawn at the bottom.
Closing Hints:
This pattern is definitely a keeper for me! I did find the darts in front to be a little fiddly but still worth the effort. If you do make the full front lining I would suggest a thin lining fabric since all those darts could make the front pieces bulky. My inspiration for these were the Karina dresses and I feel like these are very close and at a fraction of the price too! I have another dress pattern picked out with a slight cowl neckline. I'll likely make up a top first just to judge the drape of the neckline. Along with this dress from an earlier review I think I'm well on my way to a wardrobe of Spring dresses.
Here in California, Spring looks like it's nearly upon us. If we could just get some decent rain .......😟 Bye for now
Ann in Calif.
