Supplement 320 - Model #74 - Spring 2021
Full Figure Jumpsuit for knit fabric
Hi there, before the weather heats up here in California I thought I would sew up this knit jumpsuit. This is a very straightforward pattern with lots of opportunity for dressing up or down. The pattern page includes pieces for long sleeves and full length pants but the shorter version seemed more appropriate for my climate.
Even though this is a full figure pattern I was able to make it work for me by moving the pin in the scale down by 4 dots thus creating a smaller pattern. So, instead of drawing out the pattern with my usual Lutterloh measurement of 102 I counted down 4 dots and put the pin in at 94. My bust and hip measurement are the same but if yours are different you would just move the pin down for each corresponding measurement. If you are more of an average size I would suggest reading the post titled, "Using full figure patterns for smaller sizes",before trying a full figure pattern from Lutterloh.
Pattern Hints:
I have had trouble in the past with the full figure pants patterns. They have a considerably longer crotch length than the regular size patterns so be prepared to make a mock up or at the very least paper fit your pattern before cutting into your good fabric. With the regular size patterns I usually need to add a little to the crotch length but for the full figure ones I always need to cut at least a couple of inches off the top of the pants patterns.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
This jumpsuit is suggested to be made in a knit fabric and I would agree wholeheartedly. As much as I would like to make this up in a stretch woven I would advise against it. Mine is made up in a medium weight black, cotton/poly interlock with stretch only on the cross grain. If I make it again I will use a knit with stretch in both directions. It would be so much easier to put on if the fabric had some lengthwise stretch.
I did omit the narrow neck facings and opted for clear elastic sewn to the entire neck edge and then folded over and cover-stitched down. I'm so glad I did it this way because the neck edge stretches more than with a facing making it easier to put on but still avoiding any gaping in the front.
Design Changes:
The only real design change I made was to change the bodice crossover to right side on top of left. I've noticed that the Lutterloh patterns show bodices with either configuration so feel free to cross the front bodice to your preference. I did make a rolled edge hem at the bottom of the legs giving them a lettuce edge effect. To be honest this was more out of necessity than an actual design decision. I had lengthened the legs of my pattern by 2 inches as I always do but since I also needed to cut 2 inches off the top of the pants I should have checked the length again before cutting the fabric. Good thing this was just a mock up 😒. I have since made a note on my pattern to add another inch plus hem allowance for next time. I will just add the extra length to the bottom since these are wide leg pants that are nearly the same width from thigh to hem.
Closing Hints:
Now that this jumpsuit is finished I'm glad I took the time to make a muslin of it. I have plenty of knit fabric in lovely prints that I'd like to try for this pattern. For now I'll dress up this plain black one with different belts, shoes and jewelry just for some variety.
Until next time then, happy sewing everyone,
Ann in Calif.
