Supplement 259 - Model #131 (2005)
Hello Lutterloh enthusiasts, I hope everyone had a nice Mother's Day. Mine was quiet, spending time sewing up this new dress. A long time reader, Jacqui, left a comment on an old post about this top pattern and it got me thinking about how easy this one was to put together. Since I've been on a quest to find some easy wash and wear dresses for summer I thought I would consider lengthening this top pattern for a dress. Boy am I glad I did!
The Pattern:
This pattern is a breeze to draw out. You simply draw two pattern pieces, front and back, and then cut them apart at the bottom of the empire seam. It is important to pay attention to all the tiny symbols you're given because they do relay quite a bit of information. 
The two symbols circled above are to indicate that the top of the lower bodice and the waistline are at right angles or 90° to the center front. The same is true for the back piece. The 45° symbol in the oval is to tell you that the lower bodice pieces should be cut on the true bias or at a 45° angle to the selvage. The arrow is to point out that the center front on the top bodice piece is NOT cut on the fold but is rather a seam where you need to add seam allowance.
The two symbols circled above are to indicate that the top of the lower bodice and the waistline are at right angles or 90° to the center front. The same is true for the back piece. The 45° symbol in the oval is to tell you that the lower bodice pieces should be cut on the true bias or at a 45° angle to the selvage. The arrow is to point out that the center front on the top bodice piece is NOT cut on the fold but is rather a seam where you need to add seam allowance.
You may have noticed that the numbers for the side seam dots are the same for the front and back pieces. As it turns out the lower front and back pattern pieces are exactly the same. If you didn't want to draw out all those dots feel free to just cut one full pattern, front or back, and cut two identical fabric pieces for the lower portion.
My Changes:
The pattern is nearly tunic length already so the hip curve is already established. All you really need to get it to dress length is to establish how much length you need from just under your bust down to whatever hem length you like. I did this with a yard stick. Once this measurement is determined you simply extend the lines for center front and back and draw the side seam lines to match. Using your curved ruler you can extend the side seams straight down or even curve them outward just a little for a more A line skirt. The choice is yours.
I mentioned that the center front of the empire bodice is cut with a seam. I didn't want to interrupt my floral pattern so I cut it on the fold instead. It makes the V neckline a little less sharp but that's fine with me. I also raised the neckline by one inch because it seemed a little low for me.
The bodice on my dress may appear longer than the fashion drawing for this pattern. This is simply a result of my substantial full bust adjustment. In addition to the usual one inch that I add to all my top patterns I also needed to add more length just under the fullest area of my bust. You can see how I did this in my original review of this pattern here. Unfortunately as the years go by I find myself adding more and more in this area.😒
This major bust adjustment is likely the reason that I need to insert elastic all the way around the empire seam now instead of just at the back. Without the elastic this dress was not just boxy but almost sack like. There is no closure in this pattern so in order to get it over your head it needs to be quite roomy if made up in a woven fabric. I would imagine someone with a much slimmer figure might get away with this top/dress without any gathering at the empire seam.
The Fabric:
My dress, like my original top, is made up in everyday cotton quilting fabric. This affords me the greatest options as far as prints, and I do love a printed dress. Initially I looked for rayon challis for this dress transformation but alas I couldn't find one in a print in a color that was flattering. A drapey fabric cut on the bias would provide a nice silhouette for this dress so I'll keep my eyes open for one in the future. There are already two more iterations of this pattern on my cutting table with one being a thin shirting fabric. Of course a drapey knit would work nicely too but I was going for a more breathable option for the hot months to come. If you decide to try this pattern keep in mind that, even cut on the bias, the stiffer the fabric the more it will stand away from your body.
Conclusion:
I am so glad that Jacqui brought this pattern to my attention again. Thanks Jacqui 😊 With no fasteners or zippers this pattern goes together lickety split even with the addition of the elastic in the empire seam! The only fussy operation for this pattern is folding the fabric on the bias so you can cut the center front and back on the fold. Because it's cut on the bias, this dress did take a little more fabric but I managed to get one out of 3 yards of 45" fabric or 2 ¼ yards of 58" fabric.
I hope this gets you thinking of more ways to make your Lutterloh patterns work for you. I may need to look through the other patterns I have drawn already to see if I can find more short cuts. After all, the less time drawing patterns the more time there is to sew!
Until next time then,
Ann in Calif.
