Saturday, March 29, 2025

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 333 - Model #110 - (2024)
Button front blouse with ruffle collar
 
    Hi there fellow Lutterloh enthusiasts. Spring is in the air and my favorite sewing patterns are coming together. Since it's so warm where I live I find the Winter sewing patterns often don't appeal as much to me. This particular blouse pattern is actually sleeveless but the ruffle collar is so wide that it covers the shoulders too. I have paired it with a new skirt reviewed in my last blog post here.
 
Pattern Hints:
    There didn't seem to be any anomalies when drawing out this pattern. The only trouble I ran into was when trying to connect the dots for the huge circular collar. The back of the collar is a very large, sweeping curve so I couldn't find any spot on my rulers that would connect the dots. I ended up just drawing in the curve by hand and then adjusting it further in sections with my ruler.
 
Design Changes:
    When I initially saw this pattern I was attracted to the ruffled collar. I wanted to exaggerate the ruffles but I'm afraid I may have gone too far. I sliced open the pattern piece in four places around the half circle, leaving the slits attached at the inner edge. I spread the slits about a half inch in each spot and added paper behind to complete the pattern piece. My mistake was where I added the fullness. I should have only added the fullness in the back. Because two of my additions were at the shoulder and the front I ended up with quite a bit of ruffling around the button placket. I don't hate it but it wasn't exactly what I was aiming for. Before I put the pattern away I removed this fullness in the collar piece.
    Because my collar was more ruffly, even where it joined the neckline, I decided to add a facing on the inside rather than the binding that seems to be suggested. This worked really well so I will do this again in future iterations. The only other change was to add some long fitting darts both in the front and back. This blouse really is as loose and billowy as it appears in the fashion drawing.
 
Fabric Used/Suggested:
    My blouse is made up in a lightweight cotton/poly fabric. I would say this is a lawn fabric but I'm not 100% certain. This was an inherited fabric from a dear neighbor. This blouse pattern, although recommended for a woven, could probably be made from a knit fabric as long as it's lightweight and drapey. The important point here is that your fabric, either woven or knit, is both lightweight and drapeable. Any stiffness to your fabric will result in a collar that stands out at the shoulders and a bodice that billows out way from the body.
 
Closing Hints:
    Now that I've figured out the fullness in the ruffled collar I would say this pattern is a keeper. It feels feminine and flirty but still not too formal. I like how it dresses up a simple skirt or jeans without looking too fussy. I'll likely make another one in a print fabric just for fun. This should make a really nice transition from Spring to Summer.
 
Here's hoping you find some favorite patterns of your own for some Spring or Summer sewing. Until next time.....
 
Happy sewing from,
Ann in Calif.