Supplement 325 - Model #30
Elastic Waist Dress in woven fabric
There's something about the Summer edition of the Lutterloh patterns that always excites me. Some of my favorite patterns come from the Summer editions. It's probably because my climate is so warm most of the time that jackets and coats are just of so little use to me. Now give me a supplement full of dress patterns and I'm a happy camper. So here's another dress from the current Lutterloh supplement. You may want to give this one a try!
Pattern Hints:
Like so many other Lutterloh patterns of late I found the neckline on this one to be higher than the fashion drawing. I lowered the neckline on my pattern by two full inches in front to achieve the depth you see on my dress.
The red line indicates roughly where I lowered the neck on my pattern. After establishing the depth I just continued on with copying this curve for the facing.
Also, it may not be as noticeable in miniature but the elastic waistline on this pattern is not a straight line across from the center front and back. The waistline needs to mimic the curve of the hem. It's not that difficult to mark as long as you're using the same curved ruler and make note of the numbers on your curve.
The only other tip I would mention for this pattern is to either make a cheap muslin or find some way to test where the elastic waistline will fall. I found by measuring up the 55cm that is suggested for the skirt length and inserting the elastic there I was left with a very blousy top portion.
I will insert my elastic at least one inch higher into the top bodice portion for future iterations like I have indicated by the red line in the photo above.
Design Changes:
Because of the double border print I was using I did need to make a major design change. Where the pattern indicates to sew in elastic at the waist I cut my front and back pattern apart into two pieces each, top and skirt. I added seam allowances and continued on with my personal alterations for length and such. I was able to sew the top and bottom back together, adding elastic in the seam, all in one operation. This is when I discovered how billowy the top portion turned out. Determined to make this work, I cut off the elastic I had just sewn in and then cut another inch off the bodice length all the way around. Fortunately this didn't affect the skirt much and I had the opportunity to adjust that billowy top. Once again I layered the bodice, skirt and elastic and serged them all together. Eureka! Now that's what this dress is supposed to look like.
You may have noticed how simply straight the side seams are for this pattern. This always screams POCKETS please! I'm usually sorry when I don't include them and always grateful when I do take the extra steps.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Hey Fonnell, do you remember this pretty rayon challis from when we went fabric shopping at the EXPO? My husband even commented how nice it was. This fabric is the lightest fabric I could imagine without actually being sheer. I'm sure in a light background print it probably would be see through. It's a dream to wear and it wasn't too fussy to sew either. I would imagine this pattern would work in a knit too but you may need to reduce the ease quite a bit. Whatever fabric you choose make sure it's a light one to reduce the puffy factor at the elastic waist.
Closing Hints:
Sometimes a really pretty fabric can elevate a very simple silhouette. This pattern, once you get the elastic at the correct level, is a breeze to sew. If you get the right fabric you may even decide all you need is a belt at the waist. It is certainly worth a try.
I'll be taking another look at Supplement #325. I'm sure there are more favorites to find. It's always nice to dream anyway. Be sure to take some time to give your Lutterloh patterns another look. If nothing else but to give you inspiration.
Happy sewing everyone,
Ann in Calif.
