Can I use a slim fit Lutterloh pattern?

 Supplement 328 - Model #111

 Slim Fit top pattern

    Hello again from California. Hey, have you tried any of the Lutterloh patterns designed for slim figures? They're designated by a dress form outline next to the fashion drawing. These patterns are typically suggested for people with a bust measurement of 90cm or less. I wanted to see if I could make them work for my curvier figure. Similar to "shrinking" the full figure patterns by using a lower number, I used a number 3 dots higher on the Lutterloh scale from my true bust and hip measurements. The good news is that I was able to make it work but the bad news is that it took quite a bit of adjusting. 

 

Modifications: 

   The very first adjustment this pattern needed was at the neckline. Although the fashion drawing shows what appears to be a scoop neck I needed to lower my pattern neckline by two inches to get the shape you see here. The next problem I noticed was that the armholes were going to be too small for me. This is not an adjustment that I usually need to make. I do however typically lengthen my patterns by one inch at the standard cross mark on the pattern. Because this top is a kimono style sleeve I was able to lengthen my pattern above the cross mark and achieve two adjustments at once.

Splitting the pattern at this point allowed me to lengthen the pattern and enlarge the armhole in one operation. This alteration wouldn't work for a set in sleeve so I was glad for this particular style.

 

    The rest of the modifications stemmed from this pattern having very little shaping at the waist. They are intended, after all, for figures that are very slim, not hour glass. I should have tried this on more as I was sewing but it was just an experiment, sooooooo...

Once the darts were sewn and the zipper was installed in the side seam I basted the last seam and realized this still fit like a sack. I took each dart in a little more but it just wasn't enough! Out of desperation I took all the slack out in the back center seam. Since my neckline was lower in the front it turns out I didn't need the button opening suggested for the back neck anyway. This top was not shaping up to be anything I wanted to repeat so I didn't bother with the front belt either. 

 

Fabric Choice:    

    Although my top is certainly comfy to wear I don't think it's what was intended for this pattern. Mine is a rayon nylon blend with some sort of smocking texture built in. If it was intended to be a knit it's definitely the least stretchy knit I have ever worked with. A better fabric choice for this top might be a lightweight shirting, batiste or challis fabric. The fabric needs some drape to it but limp fabric just contributes to it's shapelessness. 

 

Conclusion:  

    As you may have surmised, this is not one of my favorite makes for this year. I'm glad I completed the experiment but I won't be trying any more slim fit patterns anytime soon. It seems they really are designed for the truly slim figures, certainly not hourglass shapes anyway. I would say more likely for rectangle or perhaps more athletic figures. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a similar pattern in the standard range. Until then, there are just so many other patterns to consider...................

 

Happy sewing everyone,

Ann in Calif.