Saturday, November 22, 2014

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 294 Model #151 - Fall 2014
Short Sleeved/Belted Dress

We're starting a new feature on our Lutterloh blog. Fonnell and I will be sewing fashions from the currently available supplement and then reviewing them for you here. This will give everyone the opportunity to see a few of the fashions on real people and spark more conversation about these fabulous patterns. So, here we go, my version of model #151.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
When I draw out my patterns I always make a copy first so I can cut it apart into the separate pieces such as front, back, collar, sleeves etc. This way I can tape each tiny pattern piece to my pattern paper and leave them there in case I need to check for accuracy later. 

Fabric Used/Suggested:
I used a rayon/spandex jersey for this dress. I realize there's no knit symbol indicated on this pattern but that rarely stops me from using the fabrics that I like to wear. You can see from the photo my fabric choice resulted in a dress with a much more relaxed drape.

I'm sure in a firmer woven fabric the details such as the pleats at the neckline and gathers below the belt would be more pronounced. This dress would also look lovely in a light twill, suedecloth, crepe or suiting fabric.

Design Changes:
Because of the jersey I used I was able to eliminate the back zipper altogether. I also chose to forgo the self fabric belt. I didn't think the fabric would be firm enough to withstand all the bending at the waist. 
The neckline on my dress looks different because I found the pleats too puffy for my already ample bustline. Instead I sewed the pleats down along the fold markings to form tucks.

Closing Tips:
This pattern went together easily enough. Just what you'd expect from a Lutterloh. I'd like to share with you one last tip that I almost always use when hemming knit garments. To avoid that wavy look that sometimes happens when hemming knits I like to use strips of fusible knit interfacing to stabilize the hems. First determine what the depth of the hem will be and cut enough strips, with a rotary cutter, to go all the way around. Do the same for the sleeves. Then serge the strips, fusible side up, to the inside of the hem.
The strips mark the depth of the hem as you fold right at the edge of the strips. When you press up the hem it is stabilized and held in place for top stitching at the same time.

I sure hope you find this review helpful. Believe me, the more you use these patterns the easier they get to use. If this review has left you with any questions please post them in the comments. We'd love to hear what you would really like to see in a Lutterloh pattern review.

Happy Sewing,

Ann in Calif.


  1. Looks great Ann. Love this idea of you and Fonnell sewing and reviewing Lutterloh patterns. Am looking forward to more in the series.

  2. Thank you! your support is why we love doing this!

  3. Beautiful! Thank you for firing this blog up again. I'm excited to see what else you do with Lutterloh. I haven't seen a thing in such a long time. Your blog is inspiring.

  4. Thank you for your lovely blog. I just ordered the kit after reading the full thread on PR, and now your blog. I am currently working on fitting the vest.

  5. Annette, So glad you are making the fitting vest. Consider using some nice fabric for holiday wearing. Add some nice trim or even some jewels and you are off to the Ballet!

  6. I have noticed when drafting blouses that the back side seam is usually 1.0 cm longer than the front side seam. Does the Lutterloh pattern system intend for the back side seam to be eased to the front? I always true the 2 seams to be the same length, only because this is what I was taught. Thanks! Beth

  7. Beth,
    I've heard this happen before. You would be just fine balancing the seams. I don't have this happen. Ann do you? However when ever you draft a pattern you have to true up all the seams and you are already doing that. Keep on!

  8. Beth, I too have found that the Lutterloh patterns often end up with just slightly longer back seams. In bodices I've noticed the back shoulder seam is just a smidge longer too. Because of my square shoulders I leave it and usually just sew with the longer seam against the feed dogs. Since the difference on the side seams is always less than half an inch I don't fret about it too much and try to trust the system.