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Saturday, November 22, 2014
Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!
Supplement 294 Model #151 - Fall 2014 Short Sleeved/Belted Dress
We're starting a new feature on our Lutterloh blog. Fonnell and I will be sewing fashions from the currently available supplement and then reviewing them for you here. This will give everyone the opportunity to see a few of the fashions on real people and spark more conversation about these fabulous patterns. So, here we go, my version of model #151.
Pattern Drafting Hints:
When I draw out my patterns I always make a copy first so I can cut it apart into the separate pieces such as front, back, collar, sleeves etc. This way I can tape each tiny pattern piece to my pattern paper and leave them there in case I need to check for accuracy later.
I used a rayon/spandex jersey for this dress. I realize there's no knit symbol indicated on this pattern but that rarely stops me from using the fabrics that I like to wear.You can see from the photo my fabric choice resulted in a dress with a much more relaxed drape.
I'm sure in a firmer woven fabric the details such as the pleats at the neckline and gathers below the belt would be more pronounced. This dress would also look lovely in a light twill, suedecloth, crepe or suiting fabric.
Because of the jersey I used I was able to eliminate the back zipper altogether. I also chose to forgo the self fabric belt. I didn't think the fabric would be firm enough to withstand all the bending at the waist.
The neckline on my dress looks different because I found the pleats too puffy for my already ample bustline. Instead I sewed the pleats down along the fold markings to form tucks.
This pattern went together easily enough. Just what you'd expect from a Lutterloh. I'd like to share with you one last tip that I almost always use when hemming knit garments. To avoid that wavy look that sometimes happens when hemming knits I like to use strips of fusible knit interfacing to stabilize the hems. First determine what the depth of the hem will be and cut enough strips, with a rotary cutter, to go all the way around. Do the same for the sleeves. Then serge the strips, fusible side up, to the inside of the hem.
The strips mark the depth of the hem as you fold right at the edge of the strips. When you press up the hem it is stabilized and held in place for top stitching at the same time.
I sure hope you find this review helpful. Believe me, the more you use these patterns the easier they get to use. If this review has left you with any questions please post them in the comments. We'd love to hear what you would really like to see in a Lutterloh pattern review.