Wednesday, November 30, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 302 - Model #253 - Autumn 2016
Trousers with Button Front Closure

This will be my outfit for a casual holiday party this weekend. I'll likely pair it with a black velvet jacket or a cashmere cardigan. Despite the trouble I had figuring out the sewing sequence for this pattern it really was very well designed.  

Pattern Drafting Hints:
Enlarging this pattern to my size was very straightforward as with most Lutterloh patterns. The pieces all fit together very nicely and they produced a nice fitting pair of slacks. The greatest challenge I encountered was with figuring out the sewing order.
As you can see from the pattern pieces there are very few letters to direct you. A,B,C, and D are the only hints you get and that really only gets you through the front and back pockets. The real puzzle begins once you attach the facings and try to overlap the front legs onto the side front. I won't detail my sewing sequence here because it was fraught with pinning and sewing followed by ripping and eventually hand basting to get the layers in the right order. 
 
When you finally get to sewing the outside leg seam there are a total of 6 layers of fabric to sew together at the point of the triangular side front where all the facings meet. Make sure to pin and check before sewing this spot to be certain all the facings will be caught in the seam and stay tucked inside the leg. 
 
This is definitely not a fit as you go type of pattern. Once you get those side seams sewn you do not want to mess with them again! You will still have the center front and center back seam for minor adjustments but this is not the first Lutterloh pants you should be making. As long as you've already made some Lutterloh pants to determine the shape of your hip curve and length and depth of your crotch this pattern should fit just fine with adjustments that you've already worked out. Just draw it to your regular Lutterloh measurements, make your usual figure alterations and take your time assembling the pieces of the puzzle!
 
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although this pattern is clearly a trouser pattern I chose to make mine in a stretch denim. This does affect the hang of the pants but I was trying to replicate my Dittos jeans that I remember from my youth. As soon as I saw the pattern I knew exactly how I wanted them to look. I think I got pretty close considering I no longer have the figure of a teenager ;). 
 
To cut down on the bulk of the many layers I used a navy broadcloth for the facings and pocket bags. I also sewed navy twill tape into the waistband to prevent stretching out of shape.
 
Be sure to use a fabric that will take a press. This will save you frustration when lining up all those layers at the side seams.
 
Design Changes: 
I only made one small design change to this pattern. I wanted to avoid any gaping at the button closure so I used 5 buttons on each side instead of 4. The look on the model was exactly what I was hoping for. Other than adding a little width at the thighs and length at the bottom I made no adjustments to this pattern. I may go back and sew the back crotch just a bit deeper but since these are actually trouser jeans now I may leave the closer fitting crotch.
 
Closing Hints:
I must admit I'm happy to be done with these pants so I can move on to some simpler sewing projects. Don't get me wrong, I love how they turned out in the end, but the puzzle of the sewing sequence does not make me want to repeat the experience. Overall I'd say this really is an excellently drafted pattern but unless you are up for a challenge I would leave this pattern to the more expert seamstresses.
 
I hope you all make some time for sewing in the busy holiday season ahead. I'm sure glad I did.
 
Ann in Calif.

9 comments:

  1. Really nice job! I wouldn't have ever guessed that you'd had any trouble with the sewing order.They look terrific - you should be very proud of yourself. :)

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  2. Thank you helenko. I definitely feel a sense of accomplishment that I didn't let the pattern get the best of me. Every sewing challenge leads to a better understanding of the next one.;)

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  3. Ann, I love these pants! I know that you struggled with them, but they fit very well and flatter your figure.

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  4. Thanks Susan. I wore them to dinner last night and did feel smartly dressed. I won't be making these again. They have a pretty unique style so I probably wouldn't have made another pair even if they were easier.

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  5. They are great looking and look good on you!

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  6. Hi Fonnell & Ann! Just want to wish you a MERRY CHRISTMAS and Happy New Year :-) Your blog has been so interesting and inspiring this year. Thank you very much for your generosity in sharing your knowledge and love of Lutterloh. I love the system, too. Happy holidays...Rosemary, NZ

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  7. Merry Christmas Rosemary! May we all have a great year of sewing ahead.

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  8. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you too Rosemary! We enjoy sharing our love of sewing with folks all over the world. Here's to a fun year ahead of sewing with Lutterloh!

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  9. I was certain that I had commented on this post about two weeks ago, but maybe not. LOL. I love those pants on you. They are classy and slimming. Keep the notes you made, 'cause you never know. :)

    Merry XMas to you and Happy-all-the-holidays !

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