Sunday, September 30, 2018

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 310 - Model #7 - Autumn 2018
Knit Pull on Pants

As the weather cools I find myself in need of more exercise wear. Since I like to take my music with me this requires that my clothing have some sort of pocket. These pants certainly fit the bill but I'm not sure I like them as well as my last pair.
The fit is fine, I think I just prefer my pants with pockets that don't fit so close. 

Pattern Hints:    
There was nothing unusual about the enlarging of this pattern. As long as your measurements are accurate you should come out with an easy to sew pants pattern. Just be sure to measure the length before cutting your fabric so you won't have any surprises in the end.

Fabric Used/Suggested:  
This pattern suggests a knit fabric and I really don't think you could get away with such a close fit in a woven fabric. My knit is a cotton/poly/spandex blend and of medium weight. The spandex content is 4% and I would definitely suggest at least this much to avoid bagging out at the knees and seat area.  

Design Changes: 
I did make just a couple of minor design changes. Since these were intended to be casual, exercise wear I did not sew the top-stitching for the crease down the front legs. I also omitted the zipper in the pockets because I find the zipper teeth to be uncomfortable when my hand is in my pocket. These pockets are also not quite deep enough for my phone to fit inside completely so the zipper might scratch the screen. 

Closing Hints:  
For this style of pant this is certainly an excellent pattern. I made my usual adjustments for length and fit just like any Lutterloh pattern and ended up with a nice pair of very casual pants. I may make another pair with deeper pockets and include the zippers for safety when biking. 
My next project is already underway. I cant seem to put away the last pattern for this dress.  
I've cut out another short version in this fabric. 
The contrast bands will probably be a black and white stripe but they're not cut yet so there's still time to change my mind  ; ).

So, that's my plan for my next project, what's yours?

Ann in Calif.


  1. I really like these pants on you. Thanks for all your input on the Lutterloh system. I have yet to try it (still mustering up the courage), so your site is just a beautiful gift for all of us "newbies" who need assistance and inspiration.

  2. Thank you for the lovely comment on our website. It's for you Newbies that I started it and it's the only reason I keep it.
    jump in and give it a try! Make a top, or skirt pattern.

  3. Awwww thanks, the pants are super comfy too. Fonnell and I have been using Lutterloh patterns for years and we're happy to encourage others to give them a try.

  4. Hi - I'm drawing out a pattern for a vest, and it has princess seam-like darts in the armscye. There are dots on the lines but no lines or numbers. How do I mark those darts? Thank you.

  5. Hi Karen,
    I find Darts if reasonably placed are best decided when you fit the paper on you. That way you can place that princess seam, or french darts not sure which you are dealing with, in the correct place for your body. Do your paper pattern fitting in front of a mirror. see if the dart fits you. Is it landing just below the bust point, that is it going up the body straight etc. Redo the line as needed. Or with luck it will be just right. Darts are fitting tools. The lutterloh system will give you the ease and distance around you and you will decide how much that dart needs to pull in the extra fabric or what design line it will create. This link with take you to a paper fitting video. Right click and click open.

  6. Hi!
    I have never worked with Lutterloh System but just bought a
    1981 Set from ebay. I wasn't able to see many of the pattern selections.
    I'm hoping there will be some basic styles that wont seem dated.
    Does anyone here still use 1981 patterns?

  7. Yes we easily use the 1980's you can remove the ease in the shoulder that used to be in the patterns for shoulder pads but mostly they are just like today if you find one you like. Enjoy.

  8. Thank You!
    Shoulder Pads...LOL I used to have a drawer full of them. I would cut them out of RTW and use them for furniture polishing pads!
    I found a nice Lutterloh set on ebay with 280 patterns. I may buy some supplements from ebay after trying out the system.
    I have been lurking here; very nice blog! I appreciate all the experience and info.
    I am getting back into garment sewing after a decade or so.
    I have worked with BonFit, Garment Designer and my first attempt at drafting software, Wildginger.
    I do understand Lutterloh requires the same fitting processes as all of the above and will make the vest first!
    Thanks again and Regards!

  9. I just got my Lutterloh system today. (1980-1981 issue)
    I have seen where most Lutterloh users start with a darted vest.
    My fitting challenge has always been FBA and I see my pattern set has
    3 vests (61, 62, and 63).
    63 is designated as a full figure pattern as it has the usual waist/bust dart (vertical) and also a shoulder dart.
    High Bust=38, FB=45. So I'm wondering if I should use that or #61 with just the waist/bust dart?
    I don't want to start off over-fitting if its not necessary.
    I understand I will probably have to use HB for neck and shoulder drafting, would that include using the HB for the back width as well?
    Thank you!

    1. Here is the link to the correct fitting vest. Make it and you will see how the Lutterloh patterns are designed. It is a long enough vest to allow for fitting the hip. It will help you see how much the patterns will need to be adjusted. You can read all about how to deal with the vest in our side bar. Let the sewing begin!

  10. Thank you so much!!!
    Heading to the link!
    I am basically a size 10 body with a size 16w bust which I find to be one of the most challenging adjustments.
    I am a retired engineering drafter, so working on plans is not intimidating to me at all.
    Fitting is!
    Thanks for the link Fonnell!

    1. well measure your chest and make that size in the lutterloh pattern, then do this bust adjustment. You will love the drafting feel of it!

  11. Hello Patty,
    I've been very busy at the chocolate shop so I haven't been able to respond. I had similar fitting issues with the Lutterloh vest. I could get everything to fit nicely except for a gaping at the armhole which screamed for another dart. I decided I didn't need yet another dart pointing out my ample bust so decided this wasn't a style I would wear anyway. If you look at the links on the right sidebar you will see #4 mentions a cheater bust adjustment. This is really just a narrow shoulder adjustment which can be combined with a traditional FBA to get the fit you're after. Also check out the link, near the bottom of the list, to our favorite sewing reference books. There are some excellent fitting books mentioned there too. Keep at it and you will be rewarded with a system that will span the decades. You'll likely need to make more than one fitting vest. Sometimes if everything fits a little too snug or too loose all over you may need to just use a number slightly higher or lower to achieve the right fit. Only you can decide what's comfortable.
    If you need to message us directly you can send a comment that includes your e-mail address. We moderate every message before it is released so it won't be posted to the public.

  12. Also remember if you put a dart say in the armhole, you go to your paper pattern and pinch out that dart from the pattern paper. It will change the shape of your pattern which is good you didn't need that extra fabric in the armhole. Sometimes a darted area is moved somewhere else and is turned to ease. The books we list on the side bar will help you with that. Save it for later! The point is the Vest is where you find what you will need to repair in all the Lutterloh patterns. If the vest is not helping here is an older Lutterloh fitting pattern you can try. It's a blouse and you may find a large bust adjustment easier to do on this pattern.