Monday, May 16, 2016

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 300 - Model #91 - Spring 2016
Very Loose Pullover Dress

This is my version of model #91 from the current supplement. I have to say I am less than pleased with the outcome. Granted I was trying to use a knit for this pattern but if it weren't for the belt this dress would be positively shapeless.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
The enlarging of this pattern was easy enough. In fact, except for the neckline, the front and the back pattern pieces were exactly the same. If you wanted to save some time you really could just draw the back piece and then use it again for the front by just cutting the neckline into your desired "V" depth.
I was surprised at how deep the armholes were intended for this dress. When I constructed it according to the symbols on the pattern this is where the armholes ended up, nearly cut to the waist.
Fabric Used/Suggested:
Although it was not indicated, I used a lightweight interlock for this dress. This is where I think I went wrong. What can I say, this fabric has so much going for it. It's striped, it's blue, I have an entire bolt of it and did I mention it was free! You may be seeing a lot more of this fabric in future projects. 
Really I think this pattern was intended to be made up in a lightweight silky type fabric like crepe de chine, charmeuse or perhaps rayon challis.

Design Changes:
I did raise the neckline about 1 inch and substituted an overlapped band instead of neckline facings. I didn't add any seam allowances because I knew this was going to be very roomy already. For perspective, drawing the pattern out at my usual 102 cm bust and hip size I ended up with a dress with a 65 inch circumference! In the photos above I haven't hemmed either the bottom or the armholes, I knew I wouldn't wear this dress as is.

Since I had already used 2 1/2 yards of fabric and applied the neckband I decided  to refashion this disaster into something I could wear. I laid the dress folded down the center, inside out, and arranged my favorite T-shirt dress pattern over the top. I used my trusty Lutterloh hip curve and Chaco Liner to draw in a less exaggerated kimono sleeve and cut all the layers at once with my sharpest shears. Now this was something I could work with!

Once I sewed up the side seams again and turned up all the hems this is what I ended up with.
Fashion disaster saved!

Closing Hints:
When my son took the first photos he told me the dress looked "fine". My thought was, sure if I wanted a swim cover up. Perhaps on a more rectangular figure, in the right fabric, this dress might look fabulous. I think I will move on to another pattern and chalk this one up to experience.

Live and learn and keep sewing,

Ann in Calif.


  1. Ann! The first dress makes you look like you have boobs the size of Kansas!
    Your son needs some fashion training.
    Your re-worked version looks very nice and is a perfect summer dress.
    It you get tired of that free bolt of blue and white fabric send a couple yards down here!

  2. Always beware of self sleeves you can move the armscye up to tighten it and make it more stylish. Still Ann did what we all need to do sometimes........Dive in and see what happens. love to see a job that challenges!

  3. Susan, I think by "fine" he meant I looked covered. I could have done the same with a long poncho. Even raising the armscye wasn't going to save this dress for me. There was just too much fabric to gather at the waist!

  4. What a great save! Thank you for sharing this make, it's good to know that we all use the same process --just keep sewing! :-) (& the re-make is fabulous, so svelte)

  5. Hahaha, oh my, that first photo! What a great before/after pair, however, with your "save"- well done. Nice to see the hip curve used for the extended sleeve. I love my Lutterloh curves & seeing them in use. Rosemary, NZ

  6. Nice save! The original is definitely for a tall skinny small-busted woman using the lightest and drapiest of fabrics.

  7. Well done! Thanks so much for this blog. I've been sewing with Lutterloh for a couple years and am thrilled to have "found my people" online!

  8. And we're glad you found us too Bridget

    1. Ann...I don't know if I am at the right place. I apologize if I am not. I drafted my first Lutterloh pattern today. I have a waist that is the same size as my bust (104) and my pattern...not cut out yet...seems like it will be too small in the waist. How can I adjust this?

    2. Rusty can you tell us what pattern you are working on? That would help me see the design and how it fits the model. This is Fonnell

  9. Rusty, I take it that you are making up the fitting vest that we suggest everyone make before you delve into the system. This vest will help you determine the alterations that you'll need for every Lutterloh pattern. I would also do some flat pattern measurements and a paper fitting to be sure you need the extra room. Since Lutterloh patterns sew up like any other pattern on the market you can also do an internet search of something like "increase the waist on a pattern" or a similar phrase. This should turn up results for tutorials and videos that can show you how to adjust the waist area on your pattern.